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Anyone experienced bullbar bending from winching?

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  • kiwi1973
    Valued Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 1178
    • New Zealand

    Anyone experienced bullbar bending from winching?

    Badly stuck, I needed to do a maximal pull with my Runva 11xp premium 11,000 pound winch. The dyneema rope broke, which seems unusual in itself since that should have been rated well above the maximum load of the winch!? Anyway, tonight I've been trying to track down the cause of my bullbar appearing to have moved, opening up a gap between the headlight and bullbar. Where the bullbar brackets mount to the chassis all seems fine fortunately. Rather it appears the bar itself has bent slightly. It's a MCC Falcon steel bullbar, which is a bit of a copy of an ARB bullbar with the integrated reinforced style winch mount. It seems to have bent just slightly on the steel work for the integrated winch mount - a very slight bend there would appear to translate to about an inch gap at the sides of the headlights.

    Anyone experience this before and how best fixed? My bullbar is under 12 months old. I should have done a double line pull to reduce stress, but should the bullbar not have been rated to handle the maximum pull of the winch? Not sure if I should be approaching the retailer for remedy here or not.
    2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.
  • TC.Barky
    Valued Member
    • Oct 2011
    • 3573
    • Melbourne

    #2
    Originally posted by kiwi1973 View Post
    Badly stuck, I needed to do a maximal pull with my Runva 11xp premium 11,000 pound winch. The dyneema rope broke, which seems unusual in itself since that should have been rated well above the maximum load of the winch!? Anyway, tonight I've been trying to track down the cause of my bullbar appearing to have moved, opening up a gap between the headlight and bullbar. Where the bullbar brackets mount to the chassis all seems fine fortunately. Rather it appears the bar itself has bent slightly. It's a MCC Falcon steel bullbar, which is a bit of a copy of an ARB bullbar with the integrated reinforced style winch mount. It seems to have bent just slightly on the steel work for the integrated winch mount - a very slight bend there would appear to translate to about an inch gap at the sides of the headlights.

    Anyone experience this before and how best fixed? My bullbar is under 12 months old. I should have done a double line pull to reduce stress, but should the bullbar not have been rated to handle the maximum pull of the winch? Not sure if I should be approaching the retailer for remedy here or not.
    Can't hurt to raise it with the manufacturer. Bet they'd be concerned about it!
    MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
    Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

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    • old Jack
      Regular
      • Jun 2011
      • 11628
      • Adelaide, South Australia.

      #3
      Double line pull would have reduced the load on the winch and rope but not the bulbar/winch mount.
      Most ropes fail and mounts bend if you are winching at acute angles or are doing a drive assist and you jerk load the winch rope by losing tension and regaining it quickly, like sliding backwards on a slack rope..

      Must be very firmly stuck!
      I am sure there is a good story to tell and photos to share.

      OJ.
      2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
      MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

      Comment

      • GHendo
        Valued Member
        • Mar 2012
        • 4375
        • Northern NSW

        #4
        Originally posted by old Jack View Post
        Double line pull would have reduced the load on the winch and rope but not the bulbar/winch mount.
        OJ.
        Yeah, as Jack says, a double line pull would still have the same about of stress on your bullbar – it’s just easier on the winch. I’m always careful when winching to watch the angle of the rope going back onto the drum. Even if you are straight on, sometimes all the rope goes down one end of the drum and I don’t like that. I suppose in some circumstances it’s not possible to stop and reconfigure your angles but that sort of thing would probably invite the rope breaking.

        I’d be a bit concerned about the bullbar bending – I think you should definitely get in touch with the manufacturer.

        Geoff
        03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

        Comment

        • P4J3R0
          Valued Member
          • Jun 2013
          • 818
          • Brisbane

          #5
          Let the maker of the bar know.

          Surely it must have been more than just stuck to bend the bar and brake the rope.

          Could also be that the bar isn't rated for the load you were putting on it.
          NS Pajero, with stuff.

          Comment

          • Ent
            Valued Member
            • Apr 2014
            • 1589
            • Tasmania

            #6
            I think you might find yourself an orphan on this with the bullbar manufacturer as most if not all only rate their bullbar for a 9500lb winch. ARB, TJM and Opposite Lock all made this very clear when I was looking around.

            Of course appeal to their better customer service instincts but expect this restriction to bite you.
            2014 PC Challenger, manual, factory tow-bar, factory front diff protector, TJM inter-cooler plate, Bushskinz manual transmission protection plate, ProRack S16 roof racks, front elocker, Drummond Motor Sport front struts, custom 16mm King rear springs with Bilstein Dampeners, Buzz Rack Runner 3 bike platform, Eclipse Nav head unit, GME TX3800BW UHF, 16x8 CSA Raptor rims, 265/75R16 Maxxis MT-762, orToyo AT/2 265/70R16 Triton rims, BFGoodrich 235/85/R16 Triton rims, or Factory tyres and rims.

            Comment

            • old Jack
              Regular
              • Jun 2011
              • 11628
              • Adelaide, South Australia.

              #7
              Originally posted by Ent View Post
              I think you might find yourself an orphan on this with the bullbar manufacturer as most if not all only rate their bullbar for a 9500lb winch. ARB, TJM and Opposite Lock all made this very clear when I was looking around.

              Of course appeal to their better customer service instincts but expect this restriction to bite you.
              All bars should be rated for a double line pull so if recommended winch is 9,500 lbs then bar should be able to withstand 19,000 lb load, which is still way more than the load a 11,000b winch can apply on a single line pull.

              OJ.
              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

              Comment

              • Ent
                Valued Member
                • Apr 2014
                • 1589
                • Tasmania

                #8
                Practically correct unless they argue it was point load rather than a distributed load across two points.

                As said the maximum winch capacity was spelt out to me. Strangely if I had a bar already I would think that this fact not so clearly stated.

                Steel quality probably has a lot to do with this failure. High strength steel and the weak point then is the chassis. Might be a case the bar is thick but not strong.
                2014 PC Challenger, manual, factory tow-bar, factory front diff protector, TJM inter-cooler plate, Bushskinz manual transmission protection plate, ProRack S16 roof racks, front elocker, Drummond Motor Sport front struts, custom 16mm King rear springs with Bilstein Dampeners, Buzz Rack Runner 3 bike platform, Eclipse Nav head unit, GME TX3800BW UHF, 16x8 CSA Raptor rims, 265/75R16 Maxxis MT-762, orToyo AT/2 265/70R16 Triton rims, BFGoodrich 235/85/R16 Triton rims, or Factory tyres and rims.

                Comment

                • kiwi1973
                  Valued Member
                  • Sep 2012
                  • 1178
                  • New Zealand

                  #9
                  I'm going to send the retailer some photos - not majorly bent, but I would like their comment. Thing is they sold me the 11,000lb winch and bullbar together at the same time. They made no mention of what the bullbar was rated to, or any restrictions on it - and honestly I don't think they actually are experienced enough to have any idea. So I don't think they could now try to say I'd fitted a too powerful winch and it's my fault, since they sold me this combination. As customer I believe I would be entitled to assume that the bullbar was rated to handle the winch I was supplied.
                  2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

                  Comment

                  • NJV6
                    Valued Member
                    • Sep 2010
                    • 606
                    • New Zealand

                    #10
                    Hi Kiwi, was it a straight pull? Synthetic rope that comes with the runva winches is not the same quality as the high end ones. I know you haven't had yours for long, dyneema doesn't like being wet and exposed to the sun, all the things we leave them in!!
                    1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
                    1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
                    2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

                    Comment

                    • kiwi1973
                      Valued Member
                      • Sep 2012
                      • 1178
                      • New Zealand

                      #11
                      Originally posted by NJV6 View Post
                      Hi Kiwi, was it a straight pull? Synthetic rope that comes with the runva winches is not the same quality as the high end ones. I know you haven't had yours for long, dyneema doesn't like being wet and exposed to the sun, all the things we leave them in!!
                      Hi, yes it was pretty much a straight pull - no jerking etc trying to drive - it was far too firmly stuck in deep mud for that. It is a Runva winch with 11mm Dyneema. The only thing I can think was a factor was that the car was down in a bit of a hole so there would have been an upwards angle involved that I couldn't do much about at the time.

                      As for the rope I've viewed a few Youtube videos on end to end splicing of Dyneema rope and last night I went ahead and performed the repair. It looks really good and strong, though I'll need to do a proper test to find out.
                      2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

                      Comment

                      • kiwi1973
                        Valued Member
                        • Sep 2012
                        • 1178
                        • New Zealand

                        #12
                        Originally posted by old Jack View Post
                        Double line pull would have reduced the load on the winch and rope but not the bulbar/winch mount.
                        Most ropes fail and mounts bend if you are winching at acute angles or are doing a drive assist and you jerk load the winch rope by losing tension and regaining it quickly, like sliding backwards on a slack rope..

                        Must be very firmly stuck!
                        I am sure there is a good story to tell and photos to share.

                        OJ.
                        Just trying to get this clear in my mind. Am I right in thinking that it makes a difference whether the end of the winch line is connected back to either (1) the bullbar or (2) a separate recovery point on the chassis? For instance, with the Pajero you would connect the end of the 'double pull' winch line to one of the factory recovery points. So in this scenario we would have a maximum potential loading on the whole of the front of the vehicle of double the rating of the winch, but spread equally across the recovery point and the bullbar. Granted, both the recovery point and the bullbar ultimately are secured to the vehicle chassis, but there is a relevant difference. For instance if the end of the 'double pull' winch line were to be connected back to a recovery point on the bullbar then double the capacity of the winch (assume a max pull) is being loaded onto the bullbar and its mounting brackets to the chassis. So to summarise: (1) end of winch line goes to Pajero recovery point and stress on bullbar and its mounting brackets equals capacity of winch; or (2) end of winch line goes to recovery point on bullbar and stress on bullbar and its mounting brackets equals double the capacity of winch. Is this right?
                        2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

                        Comment

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