New Pajero?

[s311_bvm]

How does the DPF dilute the oil?
My understanding is the DPF catches diesel particles from the motor before they enter the atmosphere and then this is burnt off using heat and fuel whenever required.
I'm happy to be corrected.

The DPF does not "directly" dilute the oil....

The chain of events is this....
- The Diesel Particulate Filter catches and removes the particulate matter,
- The 4M41 ECU calculates the amount of particulate matter built up based on input from 3 different sensors,
- When the Particulate Matter reaches a threshold value the ECU initiates a DPF burn,
- This is completed by dumping extra Diesel in the combustion chamber to form a blow torch effect, (In some Diesel's this is done during the exhaust stroke),
- The temp in the Pajero DPF gets to 600C and this value is monitored at the third exhaust gas sensor,
- The ECU will only allow it to commence if, the engine is warm, the transmission is in D and the vehicle speed is over 40 Km/h,
- The problem is dumping extra Diesel in does not produce an efficient burn and excess mixes with the engine oil diluting it,
- If you regularly check the engine oil when cold you will see the fluid level increase over time,
- You can expect 1-2 DPF burns per tank of fuel

[Travel Tragic]

2017 pajero

I have a 2017 NX and to date can't pick ever having a Dpf burn or change of oil level in the 10,000 kms it has done so far. I must admit that fuel economy is pretty awful especially towing. I do a real mix of driving with a bit of suburbia, a bit of open road and a bit of caravan towing. How to I pick it when The Dpf burns and does the newer models with the Dpf give bad fuel economy? John

[Keithyv]

So glad I have a NW with no DPF

[s311_bvm]

I too have a 2017 NX. Most of the time I never know that a DPF burn is happening. I can pick it if its mid burn when I pull into the shed at home and immediately auto close the roller door after switching the Paj off, if mid burn I receive a acrid burning smell trapped inside the shed.

But as I said most of the time I don't know about it.

Yes I believe fuel consumption on the DPF cars is up, however this may be the different final drive ratio and not just the DPF.

Re fluid level on dipstick, I am only noticing a very small increase on top of the 9.8 L of oil, I am watching it very closely.

Re having V not having a DPF, I like to hope that just maybe another family member will not get cancer as we have lost a few to different types all non related to each other.

[Danno47]

Most if not all DPF cars from any make now have a third mark on the dipstick some 15mm or so above the H mark and when the oil level reaches this mark it's advised you change the oil....! So remember your car will always burn oil no matter what so if it's staying steady over 10000k's it's probably because it's being replaced by diesel in a DPF car.

The diff ratios changed from 3.917 to 3.692 which should actually improve fuel economy when cruising at least and I believe this is why it was done to offset the extra fuel the DPF consumes. My 2015 no DPF with 85k on the clock averages 8.5-9L/100 and the 18 with 9k averages 10.5L/100, the new one will obviously still be a little tight but even so it's not good.

[Travel Tragic]

2017 pajero

Hi Danno, I recently travelled with a mate both towing caravans, his was a 2015 Pajero with a 750kg heavier caravan than mine on the back. Same route, same speed and same servos and I used about 15% more fuel than him. Most of the trip I was driving for economy but made no difference. I note that Mitsubishi haven't changed the "official" fuel economy for the later DPF models. Combined round town/open road fuel economy is supposed to be 9l/100k. I know the is fiction but it would be nice to get somewhere near it. I will have a talk to Mitsubishi at the next service but I won't hold my breath. Cheers John

[nj swb]

The reintroduction of the DPF and the change to taller (lower number) diff gears is all about passing an emissions test in the laboratory - reducing what comes out of the tail pipe.

The official fuel consumption figures are derived from what comes out of the tail pipe during the emissions test.

When less comes out the tail pipe in the laboratory, and what comes out is used to "judge" economy, fewer emissions is going to look like good fuel economy - when you're only spinning wheels on a dyno, and presumably not burning off the DPF.

Accelerating a heavy vehicle with taller diff ratios, and using extra fuel to burn soot into ash, must use more fuel in the real world. But official consumption figures come from a laboratory emissions test, not a real world consumption test.

[DaKaptin]

Hi mate if you are updating your cars that regularly then toyota resale values are hard to ignore here in Australia. I know the used car market is quite different over there with imported cars more common.

Otherwise a new Paj would be my recommendation. Chances are you wont keep it long enough for it to develop any issues anyway if its gonna be for 3 years again.

Alternatively just keep your old one for another 3 years. I drove my petrol NP to 290k before selling her

[KiwiNTPajero]

Hi mate if you are updating your cars that regularly then toyota resale values are hard to ignore here in Australia. I know the used car market is quite different over there with imported cars more common.

Otherwise a new Paj would be my recommendation. Chances are you wont keep it long enough for it to develop any issues anyway if its gonna be for 3 years again.

Alternatively just keep your old one for another 3 years. I drove my petrol NP to 290k before selling her

toyota resale values are good over here too

[markc]

Yep, I have both, an EGR that has resisted being turned off completely so far (may or may not bother you) and most importantly a DPF that dilutes and ruins the oil in about 2-3000k's and robs you of some power but other than that is not giving anyone too much grief so far like the earlier models, so other than that they're pretty much identical but after observing what it does to it's oil I worry about its long term reliability, not helped in this case by the fact that according to the book you are only now supposed to use a 5w/30 oil no matter what and that certainly doesn't need further thinning out by diesel dilution from the DPF...

How did you assess the oil degradation? Have you done an oil analysis and if so what were the numbers and klm driven
Would love to near the official numbers
Ive used catapiller in the past at $40 and they were good