Timing belt and associated items

[powerslave]

Hey guys. Last week my alternator died and sadly , I already knew why it died before the event. I had noticed oil covering the alternator a few weeks ago and I just tried to deny the fact that I would have to replace the cam seals (the cause of the alternator death) , the timing belt and the water pump. I have just a few questions regarding these items as I have already stripped down the timing case and removed the water pump so I can get in there and clean everything before I place new parts.

1. Crankshaft seal - What's the safest method to replace the front crankshaft seal ? I am a bit worried about removing the crank pulley (cambelt pulley) as I don't have a special tool to do this. I don't think it's leaking but it comes with the kit so I would like to change it if it's relatively easy.

2. Water pump - When I removed the old water pump , it had a metal gasket between it and the block. My new water pump only comes with the soft gasket. Should I put this metal gasket back on with the soft gasket , or by itself , or not at all ???

3. Camshaft oil seals - I don't have the tool that holds the cam sprocket while you loosen the bolt. I am hoping my rattle gun will be able to do the job but I don't want the cam sprocket to turn too much while I am loosening the bolt. I did find an excerpt from a SOHC G74 engine manual which states that if you bring the crankshaft to JUST BEFORE (but not actual) top dead center , the camshaft can be turned to some degree without valve - piston interference. It's not in the montero manual that everyone else uses here. Is this the best way to remove the cam sprocket ? And as for the cam seal itself , I noticed that many people use a screwdriver to remove these. Is it difficult ?

Sorry for the stupid questions but I only have one shot to do this and as I type , my belt kit has arrived (with tensioner pulley , 2 cam seals and 1 crank seal) and I want to make sure I've done it right the first time.
Is there anything else I need to know ??

Thanks in advance,
Regards , Lee.

1997 NL 3.5 SOHC

[peter92]

hi, lee its prity strate forwards. if you search for workshop manual you find one
theres a mitsibishi link there
regards peter

[marty moose]

1. You don't need a special tool, make sure you use a new balancer bolt and a tension wrench to do it up. The seal is easy to remove and replace you may need to clean the crank with some 1200 grit.

2. Replace the whole pump not jst the front half.

3. Wedge a screw driver into the pulley use you rattle gun or just a std ratchet. For the seal I use a small flat blade on the outside and slowly work it out. When you instal the new seals maks sure you don't knock them in too far And use ONLY genuine cam seals.

MM

[powerslave]

Thanks martyMoose , I have changed the cam seals successfully , however I need to know HOW to remove the toothed timing belt pulley that is pressed onto the crankshaft. Do I just put a screwdriver behind it and try to pry it off ??? There is no clear logical explanation in the montero factory manual on how to do this , it just says "remove it with the special tool".

Cheers

[peter92]

usally that means a puller, i used one on mine
regards peter
ps there not that dear to buy

[powerslave]

Can I ask how much was the puller? And do u have a pic of it? Can they be purchased from supercheap/autobarn?

[peter92]

yes they can be, you can get them as a set if you like
around 20/30 bucks for a cheap one, thats all you need
regards peter

[marty moose]

They are not an interference fit so it should be able to be lifted off gently with a screw driver sometimes a tap with a small ball peen to break and corrosion can help.

MM

[martin7]

The manual says it should slide off, if it doesn't slide off the manual then tells you to drill and tap 2 holes to fit 6mm bolts and use a harmonic balancer removal tool to remove this is the easiest way of doing it.
From previous experience they usually come off with a gentle pry with a screwdriver between the gear and the cover. Be sure not to lever at the point were the timing mark is as if it does break you lose your timing mark and yes they do break if levered to hard. If you end up needing to drill and tap it the manual says you should replace the gear. I have reused the gears that have been drilled in the past with no issues so I wouldn't replace it after drilling but you need to make that your choice yourself.
Cheers Murray

[tomwithannl]

Not sure about the 3ltr but with the 3.5ltr be very careful of the crank angle sensor and the two small roll pins and metal disc that are behind the gear. CRC and a copper hammer to loosen the gear is the safest way to go. If you lever behind and bend the metal disc you have to make sure you get it perfectly true again before refitting it. Also make sure the disc comes apart from the gear before the gear comes off or it will damage the sensor.

Tom

[martin7]

Not sure about the 3ltr but with the 3.5ltr be very careful of the crank angle sensor and the two small roll pins and metal disc that are behind the gear. CRC and a copper hammer to loosen the gear is the safest way to go. If you lever behind and bend the metal disc you have to make sure you get it perfectly true again before refitting it. Also make sure the disc comes apart from the gear before the gear comes off or it will damage the sensor.

Tom

Safer option is to undo the 2 bolts that hold the sensor on and move it right out of the way

[powerslave]

Thanks guys for your input. I have already removed the hall sensor and got it out of the way. I rang a mobile mechanic today and he suggested spraying the sprocket and crankshaft end with CRC , whack the END with a hammer a few times to work the CRC in , then failing that , heat the sprocket with a blowtorch. Sounds logical enough , I'll give that a try and see how we go.
to all.

[tomwithannl]

Safer option is to undo the 2 bolts that hold the sensor on and move it right out of the way

Hi Martin
My memory is failing as I get older I had recollection that you couldn't remove the sensor without removing the gear and plate, but as say you can and Powerslave has done so I will boost my Alzheimer?s medication. Cheers

PS: Powerslave use heat only as a very last resort but if you feel you have to, make it localised on the sprocket and heat quickly and have a pare of heavy gloves to slide it off square! If you have to lever make sure to do it evenly from opposite sides.
Personally I dislike heating engine components.


Tom

[powerslave]

Not sure about the 3ltr but with the 3.5ltr be very careful of the crank angle sensor and the two small roll pins and metal disc that are behind the gear. CRC and a copper hammer to loosen the gear is the safest way to go. If you lever behind and bend the metal disc you have to make sure you get it perfectly true again before refitting it. Also make sure the disc comes apart from the gear before the gear comes off or it will damage the sensor.

Tom

Cheers Tom , I will be careful , I don't have a copper hammer , but a block of hardwood timber might come in handy.

[martin7]

DON'T use heat at all as if you heat the gear hot enough to get it to move you will most certainly do damage to the alloy cover/oil pump if its so tight you cant pry it off drill 2 holes and use a puller its much safer. If your concerned about drilling and reusing the gear I have a spare gear complete for sale for $50 I could post to you.
Cheers Murray