Active stability control system

[Pajbus]

H PaulD
Removing the relays individually I ended up with the same result each time. Go figure, that outcome was far from my expectations of this exercise.
The long beep was not due to over heating due to brake use anyway.
At that stage it was a flat track with little more than a pothole or two to upset my bride.
Could not hear any pumps actuating and rolled in neutral a few times to a stop waiting for a mate in his jeep. Yes he bought a Jeep. Bugger.

All the previous Pajero's Ive owned have been the gun on the sand but this one is just frustrating me. The NW has the most power/torque except for a modified 2.6turbo I had once and it is the shittiest one to drive on sand so far unless in 4LLC with the rear lock diff on to get rid of all the traction control intervention.

I would just love to have the option to turn it OFF! even if it is for short periods of time.

Ill find a way I was just hoping someone had a wiring diagram of the new model so I can pick my point to intersect discreetly so as never to be found by prying eyes.

[pauld]

H PaulD
Removing the relays individually I ended up with the same result each time. Go figure, that outcome was far from my expectations of this exercise.
The long beep was not due to over heating due to brake use anyway.
At that stage it was a flat track with little more than a pothole or two to upset my bride.
Could not hear any pumps actuating and rolled in neutral a few times to a stop waiting for a mate in his jeep. Yes he bought a Jeep. Bugger.

All the previous Pajero's Ive owned have been the gun on the sand but this one is just frustrating me. The NW has the most power/torque except for a modified 2.6turbo I had once and it is the shittiest one to drive on sand so far unless in 4LLC with the rear lock diff on to get rid of all the traction control intervention.

I would just love to have the option to turn it OFF! even if it is for short periods of time.

Ill find a way I was just hoping someone had a wiring diagram of the new model so I can pick my point to intersect discreetly so as never to be found by prying eyes.

Ok, so maybe I was a bit confused, it is good when in 4LLC - good to hear, if not then I was very confused.
There must be some significant differences between the ABS/TC systems in the NP and the NW. I have one ABS relay and if I remove it then ABS, TC and ASC are all disabled and the light indicate that on the dash. When like this there is definitely no intervention but it is running on open diffs.
I have put a switch to the coil of the relay to allow me to turn it off. But in actual fact I never do. I regularly turn off the ASC on both sand and other off road but when I do the TC is very helpful, not a hindrance.
I actually found down at Robe that 4H with TC (ASC turned off) was better than 4LLC ***I have no diff lock so TC always on unless I over ride everything. With 4H and 3 open diffs I found the TC did a brilliant job at low speed of crawling up sand.

If I leave ASC on in sand then as soon as I 'track' sideways a little the ASC kills engine power - is yours doing this even when it is supposed to be switched off? If so it would sound like it isn't being turned off.

So, when you engage your diff lock all works ok? Perhaps the easiest way to get an over ride switch is to tap into that circuit and make the computer think the diff is locked.... I seem to recall reading about some people on here trying to do a mod with that system where they were trying to get the TC (not ASC) to work when the diff lock was engaged....

[pauld]

By the way, when I use my over ride switch there is no beep,I only get that if I overheat the TC/ABS pump.

[Pajbus]

Paul I like the way you think. Maybe I can find a way to get the lock diff into the mix and fool everything into submission in one fowl swoop.Now you have me thinking.
If I can oprate the diff lock at anytime the trac control would be out regardless of transfer or factory trac switches.
Now the question is how do I get the wiring diagram?
Off to see my mitsi contact I guess.


Ps I'm going to repeat my relay test again making sure I fully cycle the ignition to complete off to make sure I get the same results when removing the relays.
I know I stopped the engine with the key but maybe not getting full off made the results incomplete.
Will post my finding but won't get to try until the weekend.

[pauld]

The only thing is that once all over ridden you have open diffs and no assistance.... Not sure how that will go on sand.

Maybe worth catchin up with someone else that has an NW and make sure yours is working properly

[Pajbus]

Lets see if I can get the lock diff in 2wd, that would be a treat.
Used plenty of low range previously on other trips in the NW with traction on and no lock diff as well as lock diff and no traction.
It is very capable on the tracks and no complaints from this type of usage.


My main issue is the sand and the intervention when not locking the centre diff
And on gravel when wanting to us yaw to help turn in. Old habits die hard.


Basic driving 2wd I want my car and every other car on the road to have stability control on to make us all just that little bit safer.


Have you seen anyone looking to do this?
Might pm you to talk about the switch you have

[shortSteve]

We have a 2008 swb. We have tried everything with the asc on off. It has got to the point we are considering selling this vehicle as it just wont perform in the sand. With the asc off we still get stuck on a light sandy track. Have grown up 4 wheel driving and have never seen anything like it. It loses power and breaks continually. We have to get towed out. Very frustrating. We have tsken it back to dealer and he said basically thats what the pajero does. Sometimes it has worked wonderfully but the last 4 times... terrible. Any suggestions? It seems thay the asc when switched off isnt off. And to my knowledge the tc cant be switched off. We have lost faith in this vehicle and now going on holiday and wont take it off road. Help!!! Please

Hi there. I can only comment from 3 other Mitsubishi vehicles, but they all behaved exactly the same. Except one. (now two, but read on to find out why...)
MY12 Challenger, superselect 4wd but no rear diff lock. behaved exactly as you describe, and when brute force/momentum was used (flat out 3rd low range), managed to clear a simple rutted dune with lights flashing, brakes grinding and just cutting power to engine as i crested the top. My12 and My13 Tritons exactly the same. Seems even with 4low and esc off, tc would still interfere too much (or esc would reactivate) once around 30-40km/h was passed. Ended up repeating same hill in 3rd low with my right hand holding the button on, went up no probs at all, tried again in second while holding button, no probs at all, just seemed to "reactivate" whatever it was that cuts power to the engine way too quickly, which was the only thing hampering progress. Tyre pressure started at 18psi, was at 12 by the time repeat tests where done. Tritons exactly the same. Drove another with factory diff lock, low range 2nd same hill walked up, could feel a lil braking on the fronts but if anything it helped steering/keeping on track, never cut power tho.
So how did i fix the issue? After trading the Challenger on a new Triton, i fitted diff locks. Vehicle now goes up same hills in 4hi 2nd or low 2nd or 3rd if you want to labour up, can leave esc on and makes steering heaps sharper/more responsive, or turn it off and let the tc just drive the fronts to aid turning. Works a treat. Also fitted a front diff lock, in reality haven't needed it except in slippery/muddy rutted climbs, but in reality it lets me crawl up the same hills much slower, in much more control and with a lot less risk of damage.
Instead of selling the swb Paj and loosing a lot of money, spend a lil on a rear locker. Best couple of grand i did for the sand.

[crazymagna]

We have a 2008 swb. We have tried everything with the asc on off. It has got to the point we are considering selling this vehicle as it just wont perform in the sand. With the asc off we still get stuck on a light sandy track. Have grown up 4 wheel driving and have never seen anything like it. It loses power and breaks continually. We have to get towed out. Very frustrating. We have tsken it back to dealer and he said basically thats what the pajero does. Sometimes it has worked wonderfully but the last 4 times... terrible. Any suggestions? It seems thay the asc when switched off isnt off. And to my knowledge the tc cant be switched off. We have lost faith in this vehicle and now going on holiday and wont take it off road. Help!!! Please

This is strange!!!
My 2008 lwb has no diff locks and never got stuck. We have a lot of sand and sand dunes here and some of them are very soft and long. I found that 4H with asc off is more than enough. TIRE PRESSURE IS THE KEY HERE. I deflate my tires to around 10 psi and the pajero will climb most of the dunes. No brakes overheating issues.
Although I never had any issues with TC, I really want to be able to switch it off. Some of the pajero owners here managed to do that by mainly 2 ways.
Either interrupting the ABS wire coming from the ecu and using a switch. Or unplugging the cable on the left side of the brake master cylinder.
I am waiting for a free weekend to do the switch mod and will report back.

[Pajbus]

Fixed my traction control..my way

Finally i've had the chance to check out my theory on traction control whilst in sand conditions. Worked through the suggestions of cutting relay wires (by removing the relays individually)and cycling the key off then on and testing. Nether relay individually gives traction control relief. Both at the same time does for a limited amount of time but then the buzzer fairies kick in binggggggggggg!If you have a Paj you will know what I mean.
Went to my back up plan of disconnecting a wheel speed sensor and hey presto! Fixed or should that be overcome my issue.

I'm on moreton island today and twice in the first 20 minutes the (insert bad word here) traction control bogged me to the point of bringing in 4 low when it was far from needed.
I do plenty of beach driving and on this trip to Brisbane alone we covered around 120k's + over a few Mid North Coast beaches trying different tricks and tips as this string of posts lists to no avail. What should have been nearly 90% RWD turned into a combination of 4high and 4low to travers them. As soon as it was soft, traction was on.

I disconnected the front right wheel speed sensor in the wheel arch to check it out. I have no doubt there will be a code but driving with tc off is an absolute dream. Now I can say I'm truly happy with this beast. The power is awesome when you need it with out the Mitsubishi nanny cutting me off.Of course with any forum there will be opinion on this course of action but it is my 60k+ vehicle that I finally have control of. About bloody time!

[pauld]

Certainly different to my NP, both the electrical side of things and the performance of the TC. I have driven all day on sand previous in 4H without the TC flickering once.

One thing I would not have tried though is 2wd. I have no expectations of my Paj handling a beach in 2wd, especially given I can change on the fly and leave in 4H on any high traction sections. In previous 4wds I would not have ventured onto a beach unless in 4H. Not worth the trouble.

The biggest factor in this whole equation in my opinion is missing, tyre pressure, what were they on?

[Sandy Paj]

Having the same result as Pajbus. Removal of both relays was great until the constant (loud) beep.

Thought about rigging up a dummy switch, that feeds the LH signal to both the left and right ECU inputs. Switch it back again and you can be Normal for on road conditions.

Will need to do more research....

[Jimbo2]

Thanks for a most interesting discussion guys.
But I think I've missed something here. The diff lock switch already deactivates traction control, so I would have thought this would be the obvious place to turn off the traction control?
Jim Boyer

[Pajbus]

Hi Paul, 18psi tyre pressure mate. More than low enough with an empty car.Jimbo I'm waiting on a full wiring diagram from a contact at Mitsu.
I want to stop TC but not looking at bringing the locker in full time.


Disconnecting the abs wire was a means to an end for me.
Everyone drives differently and this is why there is a discussion on TC and stab control in the first place.


We drove around yesterday in foot deep talc dry sand with tyre pressures at 18psi and found only once did I have to engage AWD. Not 4wdH. And that was due to a back packers land cruiser was stuck in the middle of the track and we had to go around them.
They had help already, I didn't just leave them.


Guys, trying to find a happy compromise with the vehicle.
Any tested theories you want to put on the table would be greatly appreciated!
The relay removal / disconnect does not work long term.
The TC button is useless.
The abs wire is still a compromise as it will flick a code but is VERY effective.


I'm going to explore more of this great island without TC ruining my trip in what is a more than capable sand/beach vehicle without electronic intervention.

[pauld]

The switch is not TC off, it is ASC off, essential on any sand.

2wd 18psi wrecks sandy tracks, not much fun for others. 2H doesn't belong on sand In my opinion, especially when you can change to 4H on the fly.

18 is my starting point on sand, down from there.

[MoreliaMatt]

2h on sand just adds unneeded stress on the vehicle and chews up the tracks in my opinion....

I don't see why you would not want to use 4h?