V5AWF NW auto transmission fluid flush

[aussieintas]

Send me your VIN and I'll search for you

[gas55]

Starting to wonder now!
Read glowing reports about a local auto business about two months ago and decided to give them a go at servicing my NW transmission.
Was quoted $245, (I presumed this included filters?). It was worked on for quite a long time as I watched from their waiting room.
Since then have done a BIG trip around the outback towing a 'van with no sign of a problem.
Owner was a really nice fella, said the oil he took out was fairly clean (140,000k), and the oil smell coming from some transmissions just about clears the workshop.
Was I just lucky?
Greg

[Jasonmc73]

Thanks mate. If there’s a valid and logical explanation as to why he only showed me a relatively small amount in the bucket, as you’ve suggested, then I’m happy to stick with him coz he’s been good to me to date as mentioned. I mean he brought the bucket over to me at the front counter so if there’s a larger tray I get that he couldn’t have brought that. It was just that the suggestion was that it couldn’t all be caught but maybe he just meant in the bucket. I’m a very loyal customer when I find a good business and would prefer to give him the benefit of the doubt if it sounds reasonable. As mentioned the parts prices become way less of an issue if he’s done a good job as he normally does. Part of me thinks just call him but because of the good service he’s done for me in the past I don’t want him to think I’m questioning him.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mechanics don't generally catch oil in buckets, they have vehicles on hoists & drain into A vat.
Generally their A bit more organised with waist oil than buckets FYI & definately don't run oil all over their floors, generally.
More like one of these, bit you'll never know

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Portable-Waste-Oil-Drainer-76L-20Gal-Extractor-Tank-Under-Hoist-Workshop-Garage/323910855693?hash=item4b6a976c0d:g:78MAAOSwq2hdd27-&frcectupt=true

[flyboy]

DIY’d this last week, was the first time I’ve done it.

About 3 hours all up on my own, longest part was warming the ATF up enough for the level check procedure. That was close to half an hour (including holding the RPM at about 2000 for minutes at a time) before the ATF temp was within spec.

Happy to answer any questions if any one has them.

Oil was REALLY overdue, car has 130k and obviously had never been done. “Sealed for life” my butt. I’d recommend full flush 90k for an urban warrior, or every 45k with heavy use such as towing.

Used 12L of Penrite ATF LV which set me back $110 at Supercheap, plus some hose from bunnings and a couple of new washers.

Car is much smoother. Changes are smoother, yet much quicker. Torque converter happily stays locked much more now. 60km in 5th and it just locks into 1250 and stays there. No doubt the temps will be better as a result. Fuel economy seems better too.

[flyboy]

I have a different Pajero as of a few weeks ago, an NT 2011 with only 62,000km.

Did the ATF change today. Fluid was still quite good, light brown but still had a slight red tinge to it. Not very dirty.

Changed out again with Penrite ATF LV, which seems to have improved the changes slightly.

12L used. Once the pan was drained (3.5L), I refilled with fresh. Flushed two lots of 4L via the ATF cooler hose at the front of the vehicle. About half way through the second flush the fluid was back to bright red.

This car has done so few km and no towing/off road, so I stand by my previous recommendation of 90,000km changes or 45,000km with heavy use.

All up about $110, with the peace of mind all the fluid got changed - rather than the dump and fill most dealerships seem to do.

[flyboy]

A further addition to this…

The entire power plant/drivetrain is smoother on the Penrite ATF LV. My new Pajero was significantly harsher with engine/drivetrain noise and vibration than the old one, and I just figured it needed valve clearances done.

Now the 62k/10 year old ATF has been changed out, the whole car feels silky smooth like my old NT did. It’s not just shift quality, but the whole engine/gearbox combination is smoother.

I can’t recommend highly enough that members service the ATF with a full flush (not just a sump dump and top up) with Penrite ATF LV.

Oh, and the gear shift lever is super easy to move P-R-N-D now, even if it’s stone cold. It used to be notchy and cranky moving between the selections until warmed up.

Even though the colour of the original ATF wasn’t too bad (still some cherry red to be seen), perhaps it had started degrading due to age.

[Jasonmc73]

A further addition to this…

The entire power plant/drivetrain is smoother on the Penrite ATF LV. My new Pajero was significantly harsher with engine/drivetrain noise and vibration than the old one, and I just figured it needed valve clearances done.

Now the 62k/10 year old ATF has been changed out, the whole car feels silky smooth like my old NT did. It’s not just shift quality, but the whole engine/gearbox combination is smoother.

I can’t recommend highly enough that members service the ATF with a full flush (not just a sump dump and top up) with Penrite ATF LV.

Oh, and the gear shift lever is super easy to move P-R-N-D now, even if it’s stone cold. It used to be notchy and cranky moving between the selections until warmed up.

Even though the colour of the original ATF wasn’t too bad (still some cherry red to be seen), perhaps it had started degrading due to age.

I have to laugh, my daily is & has always been a manual.

I thought my Paj MY16 was quite smooth as i had no comparison & it fealt fine to me, it has 94,000k's on it, feels fine with AutoM8 or not.

I fully flushed without removing the sump of tranny, flushed about 15 litres through, removed the brown muddy looking bronze fleck in the sun fluid & replaced with Penrite LV.
Nice fresh red stuff.

I can definitely tell the difference with gear shift with new fluid, i prefer the shift with new fluid

[redbruce]

A further addition to this…

Oh, and the gear shift lever is super easy to move P-R-N-D now, even if it’s stone cold. It used to be notchy and cranky moving between the selections until warmed up.

Shift lever is electronic switch, not connected mechanically to auto transmission.

[4ndy]

Shift lever is electronic switch, not connected mechanically to auto transmission.

are you sure? The transfer case mode selector is completely electronic but the main gear selector does have a physical connection.

[BruceandBobbi]

It's cable operated.

[redbruce]

It's cable operated.

Correct http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...3/index_M1.htm

I confused with transfer.

[psproule]

Hi folks, thanks for bringing this together in one write up. I changed the 98,000km old fluid in the NX yesterday. We have always monitored trans temps with an Ultragauge and it's had a LockupMate since about 30,000km. This one spends much of summer dragging ski boats around. The old fluid didnt smell burnt but it was black. Just a little bit of silver paste on the magnets in the pan. It used 17L of ATF LV for the flush. I note that the Penrite in 20L drums is now about $220 from Repco or SCA and the Ryco filter kit is $65. Got them a bit cheaper from Repco at one of their regular sales. I also used my regular trick of a Bunnings 5L garden spray pack with the nozzle cut off the hose. Fill with fluid to the required graduation, hose in the fill hole, pump and watch it transfer. in this case, combined with a marked drain bucket, it was a good way of tracking how much fluid we drained and replaced. Total time taken was about 2 hours.

Cheers - Pat

[Two Emms]

Going to give my NX a full flush this weekend. The first post says to check the final level with the motor running but I have not seen a reference to this anywhere else

So should the motor be running?? (I know the transmission needs to be between 39 and 46 degrees)

[redbruce]

From http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/pajero...7/index_M1.htm

<WHEN THE M.U.T.-III IS NOT USED>

1.Earth the diagnosis connector terminal No. 1.

2.Pull the parking brake lever, and start the engine.

3.Depress the brake pedal, move the selector lever from the P to D range, and then move it to every position by holding 2 seconds or more at each range. Repeat this cycle twice, and then return the lever to the P range.

4.Move the selector lever (N → D → N) within 1.5 seconds, and continue the operation until the A/T fluid temperature warning lamp illuminates. After the A/T fluid temperature warning lamp illuminated, return the selector lever to the P range. The warning lamp goes out within a few seconds.

• The status of A/T fluid temperature warning lamp shows if the fluid temperature is suitable for the fluid level check.
  • Warning lamp is off: The fluid temperature is 39°C or less, thus checking is impossible.
  • Warning lamp is on: The fluid temperature is between 39 to 46°C, thus checking is possible.
  • Warning lamp is blinking: The fluid temperature is 46°C or higher, thus checking is impossible.
• When the ambient temperature is low (10°C or lower), move the selector lever to the P range, warm up the engine for 15 minutes with the engine speed of 2,000 to 2,500 r/min. Then, the fluid temperature becomes approximately 40°C. In such case, after the fluid temperature increased, leave the engine idling for 5 minutes, and then check the fluid level.

5.Remove the filler plug and the overflow plug, and drain the fluid from the overflow plug hole.
6.<When the fluid is drained>
Wait until the fluid becomes oil drops, and then tighten the overflow plug with a new gasket and the filler plug with a new O-ring to the specified torque.
<When the fluid is not drained>
Fill the fluid from the filler plug until the fluid is drained from the overflow plug hole, and wait until the fluid becomes oil drops. Then, tighten the overflow plug with a new gasket and the filler plug with a new O-ring to the specified torque.
Tightening torque:

• 20 ± 2 N·m (overflow plug)
  39 ± 15 N·m (filler plug)

[Two Emms]

Thanks Bruce, I have read through that part of the manual a few times already. I must be a bit thick because it's still not clear

I do know that many vehicles (of various brands) with dipsticks get the fluid checked with the motor running so I guess it seems right to check the level in the pajero while idling.