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View Poll Results: Change the Stud?
Change it 20 90.91%
She’ll be right 0 0%
Procrastinate 0 0%
Start a political movement highlighting the discrimination of thread challenged wheel studs 2 9.09%
Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll

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  #21  
Old 12-08-18
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Originally Posted by kiwi1973 View Post
I haven't replaced studs so unsure if hub has to be removed, but I do have experience removing hubs and can assist with that:

You are not likely able to undo the 4 bolts on the back of the hub without first removing the CV driveshaft back through the splines in the hub. You can leave the upper ball joint in place. Just undo the knuckle from the lower control arm and from the trailing arm. (Might also need to undo the little ball joint on the track control arm). This will allow sufficient 'swivel' to get the CV driveshaft out of the hub - support it on something rather than let it hang down, or you might later find that the excessive stretch has torn the inner CV boot.

You will likely need to remove the small guard around the ABS tone ring - take care as the small bolts securing it are very easy to snap off - use some penetrating fluid first. Now you have access to those 4 hub securing bolts. They may be very tight. Once those bolts are out comes the big question - either the hub will come out from the knuckle reasonably easily, or if it's been in there a long while it could be solidly rusted in place. You may get the hub to turn in the knuckle by striking with a cold chisel and mini sledge. But there is a risk that if you manage to turn it but fail to get it out that this may not be the best method.

When all else fails with these it is a matter of fully removing the entire knuckle - which means either undoing the upper ball joint securing bolts (note - the rubber bump stop also does double duty as a securing bolt and needs to be removed), or splitting the ball joint off the knuckle (if you have a ball joint splitting tool).

Support the knuckle on the ground on pieces of wood. Wind the 4 hub securing bolts partially back into the hub - then go around hammering each bolt equally until the hub slowly is pressed out of the knuckle. Before refitting the hub clean up the inside of the knuckle - I use a sandpaper disk attachment on my drill - and use a smear of anti seize grease.
That all makes sense. Car is still relatively new at 2.5 years old. There doesn't appear to be much by way of surface rust anywhere so fingers crossed it hasn't had time to bind anywhere either.


I don't think it does but does releasing the camber and toe arm at the knuckle end require another wheel alignment. ie that is just a ball joint at the knuckle end right?


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Originally Posted by Plage View Post
Hi Mates,

during this very strenuous work on the wheel carrier, you should think better about completely renewing the wheel hubs including bearings - there are hours, and if a wheel bearing should be damaged during disassembly and assembly, you will notice this later - and then very badly be, if you have to go back there. : - /

grz





Thanks Plage, those pics are gold.


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Originally Posted by erad View Post
Looking a the last set of photos, I think there is enough clearance between the back face of the hub and the brake dust shield to be able to get the new stud in without removing the hub from the car. If this is the case, it is as easy as I said before - give the dead stud a good whack and it will fall out, then replace with a new one.
With the pics above I can see what you're getting at erad. Just needs the parking brake paraphernalia removed. I'll certainly have a look at this method. Is there a technique to pressing the studs out with common garage tools? Maybe even a G-clamp? Or do the studs hit out easy enough?
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  #22  
Old 12-08-18
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If you really only change the bushes or stud, you need not loose the arms absoluteley - but there is ultimately a problem with one bolt. I solved it with a slim short nut an helping hands of my wife, she had to push the shaft in, corse there is more space behind the knuckle.

maybe you can solve the studs with a ball-joint-kracker, but i really dont know, whether the space behind the hub to the apron is enough to insert the new stud. :-/

And if you loosen and tighten the drive shaft crown nut - make sure that the axle is not loaded by the weight of the vehicle - otherwise the bearing could be damaged! Tighten it with 220-240NM.

grz
Plage


Last edited by Plage; 12-08-18 at 09:46 PM.
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  #23  
Old 12-08-18
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I cannot comment on a Gen 3 or Gen 4, but with my NL, I just rotated the shaft until there was enough space behind the head of the stud for it to come out. Before you whack it, check that you can indeed slide a new stud into the hole. There should be a little but of angular play to help you, but I think that it should come fairly easily. The dead stud came out easily with me. A sharp whack with a solid hammer and it was out. The loading caused by the hammer was a lot less that the dynamic loading that the wheel bearings would experience in normal driving, let alone really rough stuff.
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  #24  
Old 13-08-18
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Originally Posted by Pajshomoneroguntero View Post


I don't think it does but does releasing the camber and toe arm at the knuckle end require another wheel alignment.
No, that should be fine.
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  #25  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Well releasing the camber toe arm turned out too difficult.

Need to hold the ball joint somehow...



I released the bottom of the knuckle and the three bolts holding the top ball joint in order to persuade the axle out of the hub.


This allows access to the four bolts to get the hub out. Mine was difficult to remove. I'm guessing the time on Fraser last year started the process of corrosion as well as jamming sand into the minimal gap.



Once tidied up the hub slots in and out quite easily. I did put a smear of anti-seize on as well.








Don't forget to torque up the brake calliper bolts. I think I did but then had to remove the lot again when the wheel wouldn't fit onto the studs. This was because a few weren't sitting absolutely flush on the surface. So after another belting they were all home but I must have got distracted and forgot to properly tighten the calliper bolts. The bottom one was tight though so maybe I just got unlucky but if properly tightened it shouldn't have departed so . I noticed on a recent trip but put the slight grinding noise down to the camper's electric brakes. Found the evidence when I rotated the tyres the other day. I can tell you that the calliper bolt is an M12 1.25 26.5mm long. Something that I don't have spare, M12 1.5 yes but not 1.25. The local wrecker pointed me to a 200L drum full of bolts so I found one that I could cut down to size while Amayama send me a replacement.

I'm thinking that if bearings needed to be changed out on the road it's doable but probably easiest if the hub is replaced with the new bearings already installed. I noted that a replacement hub is circa AUD$240 from Amayama or Partsouq. Problem is the weight of carrying the part and the fronts are a different part number.

I did take the parking brakes off too but the job can be done with them in situ provided the hub isn't seized in place. On second thought you can probably get the hub out knowing that it just slips into place. So I guess you could leave the four bolts a few threads in and tap the hub out by hitting the bolts in turn.

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  #26  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Bugger, no photos to view on my comp.
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  #27  
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Bugger, no photos to view on my comp.
x2...
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  #28  
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How about now?
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  #29  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Nope.
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  #30  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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nope.
x 2
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