Originally posted by DAUMULLER
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Replacement bottle jack
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NW VRX MY2013
Jonny Tig FMIC, 3" Exhaust, RalliArt remap, Provent, FuelManager, CouplerTec rust protection, ARB bar, Runva winch, TJM Snorkel, Bilstein/Lovell/Airbags, full Bushskins kit, Asfir AC+fuel, Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000 spotties + LED headlights, Uniden UHF, RedArc TowPro Elite, BRC breathers, Honda sprayers, Automate lockup/paddles, Rhino platform/backbone
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Looking at my OEM jack on my NW Pajero, I was surprised at how small it is. I cannot recall seeing a jack in the shops as short as this. You may be able to jack under the body with a regular hydraulic jack, but certainly not under the suspension points once you have a flat tyre.
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This thread is perhaps a good reminder for all of us to check whatever jack we have in our vehicles and make sure they'll be safe and effective if needed out on the tracks somewhere.
Ge it it out and try it.
Does it hold weight safely ?
Does it have the reach you'd need if you get caught in a culvert or ditch ?
Can you safely get it to a solid mounting point under adverse conditions ?
Do you have a couple of wood blocks to help with lift and or chock wheels ?
Do you have at least 1 axle stand ?
More thoughts here.......
The following are a few basic jack safety precautions:
Only use a jack on a hard level surface.
Do not exceed the jack’s specified lifting capacity.
Jack only under the designated lifting areas to ensure the vehicle is not damaged and that the jack will not slip.
Wedge chocks under the vehicle’s wheels that remain on the ground, so that the vehicle cannot roll while being lifted.
If you are using a trolley jack ensure that it is free to roll as the car is raised. Failure to do this may cause the vehicle to slip off the jack.
Never go under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack. Before going underneath, place jack stands under appropriate parts of the vehicle and lower the vehicle onto the stands. Make sure that the vehicle is securely settled before going underneath.
Use safety stands to support a vehicle. Do not use bricks, concrete blocks or wood.
Never allow anyone to remain in, or to get into a vehicle that is supported only by a jack.2005 NP Platinum Edition, DiD Auto
2009 VW Crafter motorhome
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May be of interest to some my PK ranger came with a screw jack. Similar to the Toyota ones I believe, very squat. I found it a pain in the backside to be honest and replaced with a kincrome bottle jack when I fitted bigger tyres. but those of you on the hunt for a screw jack it may be worth checking out the wrecking yards for ford ranger jacks.Sold 2004 PA Challenger
Current 2010 XLT Ford Ranger. TJM winch bar, ARB rear bar, Gme uhf, Goodyear Wranglers, dual battery, light force blitz 240s, hard korr lightbar, bushskinz bash plates. Helical torque lock lsd.
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Originally posted by Wicks747 View PostMay be of interest to some my PK ranger came with a screw jack. Similar to the Toyota ones I believe, very squat. I found it a pain in the backside to be honest and replaced with a kincrome bottle jack when I fitted bigger tyres. but those of you on the hunt for a screw jack it may be worth checking out the wrecking yards for ford ranger jacks.
Was the shaft of handle was not long enough and or the length of the crank handle was too short?
OJ.2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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The extension handle just tended to come apart at the join of the two rods. The tyre iron doubles as the crank handle so if you where rotating tyres it was a lot of back and forth. But mostly just slow. It wasn’t that bad really. If it wasn’t for the larger tyres I wouldn’t have changed it.Sold 2004 PA Challenger
Current 2010 XLT Ford Ranger. TJM winch bar, ARB rear bar, Gme uhf, Goodyear Wranglers, dual battery, light force blitz 240s, hard korr lightbar, bushskinz bash plates. Helical torque lock lsd.
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Originally posted by Wicks747 View PostThe extension handle just tended to come apart at the join of the two rods. The tyre iron doubles as the crank handle so if you where rotating tyres it was a lot of back and forth. But mostly just slow. It wasn’t that bad really. If it wasn’t for the larger tyres I wouldn’t have changed it.
I have a custom one piece crank handle, 1100mm long and 300mm crank offset so I am well clear of the vehicle when I am using it.
OJ.2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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Well the jack on the NS gave up the ghost. Bought a sidchrome one from bunnings ($39)
Max load 1859kg
Advertised max height was 345mm but is actually closer to 360mm.
The base is smaller than the factory one, i always use a jacking plate off road so no issue. It also fits in the factory spot, but the supplied handle is terrible.
For the price its a good buy but I might get one a bit bigger down the track.
Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkLast edited by Seigried; 19-07-20, 04:53 PM.
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Originally posted by Seigried View PostWell the jack on the NS gave up the ghost. Bought a sidchrome one from bunnings ($39)
Max load 1859kg
Advertised max height was 345mm but is actually closer to 360mm.
The base is smaller than the factory one, i always use a jacking plate off road so no issue. It also fits in the factory spot, but the supplied handle is terrible.
For the price its a good buy but I might get one a bit bigger down the track.
[ATTACH]44229[/ATTACH][ATTACH]44230[/ATTACH][ATTACH]44231[/ATTACH]
Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkPajero NX MY21 GLS
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Originally posted by erad View PostI have a small, 2 tonne trolley jack which I have used for years, no problems. That is until last year, when I got a flat tyre on a gravel road with strong side slope, miles from anywhere, no phone, no passing traffic. I have a severe respiratory problem and it took me over 2 hours to change the wheel. Not nice. The big problem was the bulge in the flat tyre was restricting access to put the jacking pad into the recess in the rear suspension arm, and there was no way I was going to crawl under and jack from the centre of the car. The width of the jack base was too wide to allow the pad to fit into the jacking socket. I managed to change the wheel, but it was not nice.
Subsequently, I bought a bright yellow, 3 tonne, 12 V electric scissor jack from fleabay. This was utterly useless - it struggled to lift one rear wheel. I complained to the seller about it and he happily refunded me the full price and paid the return freight. If you are looking to buy an electric scissor jack, be warned - the label said 3000 kg, but I suspect it was a 3000 lb jack (made in China, naturally. I have a 2 tonne 12 V electric scissor jack for my wife's car and it lifted the Pajero quite well. The 2 tonne jack was at least 100 mm longer than the '3000 kg' jack, so if you are looking to buy, compare the length of the jacks
I now have bought a 5 tonne, 12 V electric/hydraulic jack from fleabay. This thing doesn't even know the Pajero is sitting on it, and it has a small width footprint which will allow me to jack into the socket on the suspension arm, even with a flat tyre. The width of the footprint is about the same as the OEM jack. Incidentally, I checked the OEM jack today - it is still in the original mounting, never even been unscrewed, and thusfar does not show any signs of leaking oil. It has a tiny body, obviously designed to fit under the suspension arms and raise the wheel directly rather than lift the car body.2009 NT Pajero. SWB X ARB Sahara bar. Xray HID converted Spot lights. Mickey Thompson STZ 265/60 R18. Unicorn Performance upgraded Intercooler. NP 16" rims under house, still no rubber! Rhino sports racks and Rhino aluminium basket and bag.
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Mitsubishi Pajero NP Exceed V78W (Daily)
Mitsubishi Pajero NG TURBOWAGON L149G (Sold)
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Originally posted by NTX View Post
G'day Erad, you wouldn't happen to have a link to the successful electric scissor jack you settled on by chance? I've got a SWB with limited storage, but hoping one might slip into the floor compartment. Cheers Matt.
This similar to mine. Heaps to choose from.....https://major4x4.com.au/product/5t-1...ulic-car-jack/Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Originally posted by NTX View Post
G'day Erad, you wouldn't happen to have a link to the successful electric scissor jack you settled on by chance? I've got a SWB with limited storage, but hoping one might slip into the floor compartment. Cheers Matt.
Sorry for the delay in answering your query. You obviously read my post about jacks. You don't need 5 Tonne capacity, but the price difference was minimal and I had already been bitten on the 3000 kg scissor jack so I went to 5 tonnes to be sure.
I doubt that you could put the jack under the floor. Certainly in my NW, no way would it fit with the third row seat folded down.
My rapidly fading memory tells me the jack is about 350 x 120 mm base dimensions by 110 high. It is like a brick. It has a built-in compressor which I reckon is too small and therefore useless for me.
The scissor jack we have for my wife's car has one outstanding plus over the hydraulic model - the controls are in the power lead. This means that any jacking operation (raise/lower) you are not reaching under the car. With my 5 T hydraulic jack, the switch is on the jack body so you have to reach under the car to operate it. I was thinking of putting a switch into the power lead so that I could set it to raise or lower and then back off as the jacking was under way.
Sadly, my Pajero is 120 km away from me so I cannot verify the info above, but from memory I was the first on this forum to have one of these jacks. Dicko has put a lot more info about them and the range of products is a lot wider nowadays. I would look for a switch/control function in the power lead if possible.
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something like this, for remote operation?
https://www.amazon.com/EAMBRITE-Heavy-Ton%EF%BC%889900lb%EF%BC%89-Hydraulic-Floor/dp/B01JRZK6U2
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Originally posted by paceman View Postsomething like this, for remote operation?
https://www.amazon.com/EAMBRITE-Heavy-Ton%EF%BC%889900lb%EF%BC%89-Hydraulic-Floor/dp/B01JRZK6U2
The reason the factory hydraulic jack fails is it is stored on its side, very few hydraulic bottle jacks are designed to be stored and or used either upside down or sideways, in is to do with the internal piston seals, pump and reservoir design.
OJ.2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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