egr code p2413

[Rob e g]

For many years I have had trouble with my engine light coming no with many trips to the mitsi dealer. My car is a pb 2012 challenger with 96000 kls on the clock. About 4 years ago the dealer replaced the EGR valve and said the problem was solved but when I started the car the engine light came back on. I told the dealer I wasnt happy because I had a trip planned for Coober pedy Uluru and the west macdonald rangers an 8,500 kl round trip. He double checked everything and couldnt find why it come back on and guaranteed me it wouldnt cause me any problems. The car never went better didnt miss s beat and fuel consumption was the best it ever was. Long story short, car is getting to the end of its warranty so at last service I asked for the engine light issue to be fixed. All tests done and I was told the EGR valve was completely carbon up and 750 dollars to get it replaced. I took the motor of the top of the EGR valve and pushed it up and down, it was very smooth and easy , The electric motor works fine at 4.95 volts ? I didnt see a reason why the EGR needs replacing.?? PS...I have a catch can, steinbauer chip, lockup mate,and a 3inch exhaust, I did have the SPV egr module for about six months before engine light problem....Any help would be appreciated ALMOST forgot,...can clear the code and it will stay off until you turn the engine off and get a run on;;;;;engine increases revs before shut down.

[KevL]

Tried with the steinbauer chip removed?


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[old Jack]

Hi Rob,

Looking at the circuit diagram.
The EGR valve operation is controlled by the Engine ECU, it is a variable position DC servo motor that uses 5vdc to operate. There is an inbuilt EGR position sensor within the EGR motor that gives the ECU a variable voltage feedback signal to indicate the position of the EGR valve, eg open, closed or any position in between, this sensor could cause the problem if the feedback voltage was not what the a Engine ECU is expecting for a given engine condition. It is possible to bench test the motor and feedback circuit but you need a controlled 5vdc power supply and a multimeter.

So when you clear the fault code when does the Check Engine Light illuminate?
Immediately after engine start up, during driving or during shutdown?

What terminal number or wire colour are you checking the voltage supply at?
Note the pin and socket connections are very easily damaged so the voltmeter probe should be inserted, where ever possible, from the wire input end of all plug connectors. These are low voltage connections so it is important ant that the connections are 100%, they must be clean, corrosion free and have a low resistance. The application of electrical connector grease may assist if there is a connectivity problem.

My second thought is you comment about engine run on at shutdown.
Is the run on more than when you had the SPV fitted?
Was the SPV a solder or crimp mod, or a plug and play version?
Why did you remove the SPV?
Reason for these questions is the SPV modifies the air inlet temperature circuit resistance and this circuit is used in the control of the EGR valve.
This circuit is the most likely cause of your problem, there was a MM Hot Fix Service Bulletin for MAF sensor plug has this Hot Fix been done?

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=34802

Has the Dealer checked the MAF sensor circuit?
Is the MAF sensor clean?


OJ.

[Rob e g]

Thanks for the reply O.J. The problem started well before the steinbauer chip., that and the lockup mate would have to be the best two mod,s I have done to my car. If the light is off at startup it remains off until you get a shutdown with run on, and slight rev increase. The 4.95 volts that were detected came from lower left purple and top left grey.....and lower right yellow and top left grey wires. The S.P.V. egr control module Mk 3.1 , not sure of its construction ,had no problems until after the recall for the wiring harness to be replaced, that was when the engine light first come on. Disconnect S.P.V module before going to the dealer and the light would go off after a couple of restarts. Persisted for a couple of weeks but the same result so I replaced the S P V for a catch can . The engine light would go off for months ,then come back on again for a day or so,...now it is on all the time. BUT now since the dealer has said they done all the testing and the egr, was carboned up shut and needed replacing I started to play with it a bit and since then I have cleared the code with no engine light on for a couple of good clean shut downs ..... But a run on at shut down and the light is back on again . So much for EGR completely carboned shut.

[old Jack]

Hi Rob,

Before spending money on replacing the EGR valve/motor assembly I would suggest doing the following first and see what happens.

1. Clean the MAF sensor and in particular the temperature sensor. Use the special cleaner, such as;

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/crc-crc-mass-air-flow-sensor-cleaner---300g/157339.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItZnj1pzn6AIVx4yPCh3_eAQbEAYYAiABEgKElvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

2. Clean both the EGR valve motor and MAF sensor electrical plugs and sockets with contact cleaner and the apply conductive grease to the terminals.

3. When the MAF sensor loom and plug Hot Fix was done, this required the loom to be cut and the new plug and part loom spliced in. It would be worth finding this splice, un-taping and checking the wire joints to see they are still soldered correctly and intact. If in doubt just re-solder the joints and re-tape. Whilst you have this loom splice exposed you may want to bypass the temperature sensor of the MAF and it a solder in a resistor so the EGR remains closed all the time.
3.9K Ohm resistor soldered across the black/blue and yellow/blue wires with the temperature sensor out of the circuit. If you do this and still have a problem then you have at least eliminated the temperature sensor part of the control circuit!

OJ.

[Rob e g]

Thanks again O J for your knowledge, I use MAF sensor cleaner before every service , not sure about the heat sensor though.?. Will try your other suggestions and see how I get on. Not sure about resister mod ? ....if the EGR stays shut what happens if the exhaust gas temp. .gets to high. Thanks OJ will post again after a bit more tinkering....

[old Jack]

The temperature sensor and MAF are combined in the one unit, so when you clean it you are cleaning both sensors.

There are many Challengers and Tritons still running around after having an EGR resistor mod or SPV or Munji units, fitted more 5 years and 100,000kms and I have not read of a single problem with high EGT's or problems cause by high EGT's.

My strong suspicion is it is poor electrical connections on the MAF sensor and or the EGR valve motor.

OJ.

[Rob e g]

I gave the MAF sensor a good clean as well as the connectors and the EGR motor connector to and I applied conductive grease to all connections...... Cleared the code and went for a drive, all good but again the engine light come back on after the third shut down . Decided to do the resistor mod, Soldered in a 0.5w. 4ohm resister into the black/blue wire only, heat shrink the wires, cleared the code and so far no run on after several short trips Hopefully all is good from now on. Thanks again OJ for all your help AS they say,...knowledge is no burden to carry. P.S. any need to put a resister in the yellow/blue wire ?

[old Jack]

You need to cut the black/blue and the yellow/blue wires. Then solder a 3.9K ohm resistor to connect the black/blue to the yellow/blue wire on the loom side of the cut wires.

OJ.

[Rob e g]

I put the resistor in the blue/black wire because that is what I read in an old post about the resister mod. The engine light has staid off and the engine is running great , Would it cause a problem if I left it as is ?? or is there another benefit to the other way.?

[old Jack]

The reason I am suggesting the resistor is used to join the cut black/blue and yellow/blue wires together, on the loom side, is this deletes the thermistor and the plug connections out of the EGR circuit. By doing this you eliminate this part of the circuit that is causing the EGR fault code.

OJ.

[Rob e g]

Yes........all is clear now, thanks again for your knowledge and patience O.J. It is much appreciated .

[craka]

Yes........all is clear now, thanks again for your knowledge and patience O.J. It is much appreciated .

Hey Rob, just wondering if what you did resolved you issue? I have just started experiencing the same symptoms as you. Getting a P2413 fault code and the 1-2 second rough shutdown.

[crispus]

craka Did you tried to clean the EGR valve? It might be stuck and a cleaning might help... I assume the roughness is because the EGR doesn't open enough (I have the same roughness on shutdown because I disconnected the EGR - the DC motor failed - I need a new one). If I connect it back, it will shutdown normally (most times).

[craka]

craka Did you tried to clean the EGR valve? It might be stuck and a cleaning might help... I assume the roughness is because the EGR doesn't open enough (I have the same roughness on shutdown because I disconnected the EGR - the DC motor failed - I need a new one). If I connect it back, it will shutdown normally (most times).

Not yet mate. Yet to get to it time wise. Was just trying to check all the info out etc, before attacking it. It started happening a couple weeks ago. I noticed with Torque pro it was intermittent for a period where the valve would open up at some stage, however monitoring torque pro now it seems to be not opening at all.