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Hi all, I thought I'd share my EGR valve and cooler delete for my 2004 Pajero 3.2 diesel.
It's done quite a few km's, but I thought there wouldn't be much to lose by doing this delete.
I'd based most of this off this video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPy_rwi-nqw) which shows the exhaust EGR port and intake EGR port both blanked off, and cooler fully deleted with a bypass for the water cooling.
I could've done this either way, by purchasing a kit online or making the blanks myself. At the time of writing (during lockdown from coronavirus in NZ), buying online was going to take far too long.
I've also read that 6mm mild steel is more favourable, however I didn't see the harm in using slightly thinner steel (if someone could tell me why there is a difference I'd be happy!)
What I needed for the job:
4.5mm mild steel
Angle grinder with cutting disc
Bench grinder
Socket set
1) I first removed the plastic engine cover by removing the four bolts.
2) Then removed the the top EGR pipe and the valve itself (removing the vac line).
3) And the bottom EGR pipe.
4) I then used the gaskets from the intake manifold port and exhaust manifold port and drew them onto the steel (here I reused some 4.5mm thick mild steel.
5) This is how it came out for the exhaust side (prior and after using the grinder.
6) Do the same for cutting and grinding the intake side.
7) When installing the exhaust side, reuse the gasket, and you can reuse the same bolts from the piping.
7) For the intake side, reuse the gasket. However, I used the bolts that came from joining the top pipe to the EGR valve as seen below. This was because the the ones that usually go in there are too long.
8) Finally, I blocked off the vacuum line that controls the valve using a small bolt and a ziptie, and looped it in with the other lines.
9) This is how it looks wit the upmost and bottom most parts of the EGR system blocked off. I blocked off the open holes with some very thin tin (while I wait before removing the whole cooler)
10) Obviously, I would usually want to remove the cooler, and connect the two coolant hoses together - but at time of doing and writing I'm unable to go to the store and get any coolant hoses to do this. This will be one of the first things I do when they're open.
More than welcome for any feedback or comments as I'm still new to this. Also, if anyone has any good reasons to suggest using thicker steel, please say!
Hope this has helped someone somewhere, cheers.
It's done quite a few km's, but I thought there wouldn't be much to lose by doing this delete.
I'd based most of this off this video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPy_rwi-nqw) which shows the exhaust EGR port and intake EGR port both blanked off, and cooler fully deleted with a bypass for the water cooling.
I could've done this either way, by purchasing a kit online or making the blanks myself. At the time of writing (during lockdown from coronavirus in NZ), buying online was going to take far too long.
I've also read that 6mm mild steel is more favourable, however I didn't see the harm in using slightly thinner steel (if someone could tell me why there is a difference I'd be happy!)
What I needed for the job:
4.5mm mild steel
Angle grinder with cutting disc
Bench grinder
Socket set
1) I first removed the plastic engine cover by removing the four bolts.
2) Then removed the the top EGR pipe and the valve itself (removing the vac line).
3) And the bottom EGR pipe.
4) I then used the gaskets from the intake manifold port and exhaust manifold port and drew them onto the steel (here I reused some 4.5mm thick mild steel.
5) This is how it came out for the exhaust side (prior and after using the grinder.
6) Do the same for cutting and grinding the intake side.
7) When installing the exhaust side, reuse the gasket, and you can reuse the same bolts from the piping.
7) For the intake side, reuse the gasket. However, I used the bolts that came from joining the top pipe to the EGR valve as seen below. This was because the the ones that usually go in there are too long.
8) Finally, I blocked off the vacuum line that controls the valve using a small bolt and a ziptie, and looped it in with the other lines.
9) This is how it looks wit the upmost and bottom most parts of the EGR system blocked off. I blocked off the open holes with some very thin tin (while I wait before removing the whole cooler)
10) Obviously, I would usually want to remove the cooler, and connect the two coolant hoses together - but at time of doing and writing I'm unable to go to the store and get any coolant hoses to do this. This will be one of the first things I do when they're open.
More than welcome for any feedback or comments as I'm still new to this. Also, if anyone has any good reasons to suggest using thicker steel, please say!
Hope this has helped someone somewhere, cheers.
I rolled my eyes and coal to that piece of information. How does that breakfast taste knowing I have my fuelling and off boost enrichment turned up full with no cat and the fact that the local emissions tester congratulated me on my good work. 
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