Just wondering if it is worth getting an idrive for my PS, a friend has one in his Ranger and swears by it....any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated before shelling out my hard earned.
Below Nav Bar
Collapse
Idrive
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by marlin1856 View PostJust wondering if it is worth getting an idrive for my PS, a friend has one in his Ranger and swears by it....any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated before shelling out my hard earned.
Iwas a sceptic, till i got one.
-
-
I like the 'How it works' link on their website, It explains zero about how it works
Ultimate9 Australia, Free Shipping Worldwide! Shop Australia's most trusted throttle controller brand direct. As seen on 4WD 24/7! Select your vehicle to find compatible aftermarket automotive accessories. EVC Throttle Controllers | OBD2 Diagnostic Tools | Bluetooth Battery Monitors | LED Light Bars2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Keithyv View PostI like the 'How it works' link on their website, It explains zero about how it works
https://idriveaustralia.com.au/#how_it_works
All they do is amplify the pedal signal to the ECU, so that at say 30% pedal position, the ECU gets a signal that indicates 60% pedal position. They make the pedal more sensitive to your foot movement. No doubt they make vehicles 'feel' more responsive, but it really is no different to pushing the pedal down faster and further.
They don't (and can't) have the slightest effect on turbo lag. Turbo lag is a physical characteristic of how long the turbo takes to spool up from a low rev condition. This won't change no matter how sensitive the accelerator pedal is.Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto
ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.
Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto
Comment
-
-
Yeah, it is intriguing.
'People' say these controllers can not just be replicated by 'putting your foot down faster' and that they have some magical ability. I'm not saying either way that they are a waste of money or not as I have no experience with them.
At their core though, all they can do is affect the rate of change and the perceived position of the pedal. I can't see how that can make such a difference. Happy to be proved wrong however.2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Merts View PostLol. Yep.
All they do is amplify the pedal signal to the ECU, so that at say 30% pedal position, the ECU gets a signal that indicates 60% pedal position. They make the pedal more sensitive to your foot movement. No doubt they make vehicles 'feel' more responsive, but it really is no different to pushing the pedal down faster and further.
They don't (and can't) have the slightest effect on turbo lag. Turbo lag is a physical characteristic of how long the turbo takes to spool up from a low rev condition. This won't change no matter how sensitive the accelerator pedal is.
Do you have one to quantify your comments?1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by NJV6 View PostDo you have one to quantify your comments?Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto
ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.
Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto
Comment
-
-
I appreciate all the comments, I have driven a friends Ranger with it set to U4 and also with it switched off and let me tell you there is a considerable difference in how that vehicle drives (for the better) not sure if it perception or physical but either way you touch the throttle and it goes instantly I just don't know if it will have the same effect on my PS?2016 Pajero Sport Exceed Titanium
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by marlin1856 View PostI appreciate all the comments, I have driven a friends Ranger with it set to U4 and also with it switched off and let me tell you there is a considerable difference in how that vehicle drives (for the better) not sure if it perception or physical but either way you touch the throttle and it goes instantly I just don't know if it will have the same effect on my PS?
If you want to "go instantly" buy a Ferrari not a 4X4.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by NJV6 View PostDo you have one to quantify your comments?
Originally posted by Jim-oz View PostIn other words he hasn't and hadn't tried one, plenty of people around with Degrees, especial pollies and i certainly don't believe or trust them.
You don't need one to be able to know the limitations of the scope of design and functionality, that's the point of being qualified in a field. I would rather trust someone with training in a field than someone with absolutely no idea, but who would like to justify to themselves that they haven't wasted their money.NW VRX MY2013
Jonny Tig FMIC, 3" Exhaust, RalliArt remap, Provent, FuelManager, CouplerTec rust protection, ARB bar, Runva winch, TJM Snorkel, Bilstein/Lovell/Airbags, full Bushskins kit, Asfir AC+fuel, Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000 spotties + LED headlights, Uniden UHF, RedArc TowPro Elite, BRC breathers, Honda sprayers, Automate lockup/paddles, Rhino platform/backbone
Comment
-
-
To work this through...
What sort of signal is the throttle positioning sensor sending to the ECU? Really only a couple sensible options, it's either PWM or analogue. Highly likely PWM.
So this IDrive, being plug and play, would need to send exactly the same type of signal to the ECU, but multiplied by a factor. So for a given throttle position, the Idrive would increase the % duty cycle of the PWM (i.e. 40% instead of 30%), or the analogue signal would be a larger voltage (i.e. 6V instead of 4V).
Which is the same as putting your foot down further. But with the iDrive, 50% duty cycle is at 1/4 throttle position instead of 1/2.
Again, another electronic engineer, which means I don't need one to know there is only very limited signals this device can be outputting. It's a very simple thing to reverse engineer. The fact that the website is incredibly simplistic in it's 'how it works' section speaks a large amount. They aren't going to tell you, as if it's this simple, they wouldn't sell them.
Again, from an engineering perspective this device can have no control whatsoever over boost or power. None. All it is doing is increasing the revs at a given throttle position which in turn, is spinning the turbo and boost comes on at a earlier throttle position, but the same revs as before. Same effect as if you put your foot down harder.
Now if you (who are unqualified in the area) can show me from an design level where I am wrong, then go for gold. Your seat of the pants 'feeling' does not show or even come close to proving that this device does what it claims. It will feel more responsive but just wear heavier shoes, it's cheaper!NW VRX MY2013
Jonny Tig FMIC, 3" Exhaust, RalliArt remap, Provent, FuelManager, CouplerTec rust protection, ARB bar, Runva winch, TJM Snorkel, Bilstein/Lovell/Airbags, full Bushskins kit, Asfir AC+fuel, Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000 spotties + LED headlights, Uniden UHF, RedArc TowPro Elite, BRC breathers, Honda sprayers, Automate lockup/paddles, Rhino platform/backbone
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by marlin1856 View PostDon't need a Ferrari my wife drives a Kia Stinger and it goes, I just want my PS a little more responsive.
Nice, a Kia I would actually like to own!! They did a fantastic job on that car!
You would be better looking at an ECU remap. That ACTUALLY effects boost, timing etc.NW VRX MY2013
Jonny Tig FMIC, 3" Exhaust, RalliArt remap, Provent, FuelManager, CouplerTec rust protection, ARB bar, Runva winch, TJM Snorkel, Bilstein/Lovell/Airbags, full Bushskins kit, Asfir AC+fuel, Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000 spotties + LED headlights, Uniden UHF, RedArc TowPro Elite, BRC breathers, Honda sprayers, Automate lockup/paddles, Rhino platform/backbone
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Merts View PostLol. Yep.
All they do is amplify the pedal signal to the ECU, so that at say 30% pedal position, the ECU gets a signal that indicates 60% pedal position. They make the pedal more sensitive to your foot movement. No doubt they make vehicles 'feel' more responsive, but it really is no different to pushing the pedal down faster and further.
They don't (and can't) have the slightest effect on turbo lag. Turbo lag is a physical characteristic of how long the turbo takes to spool up from a low rev condition. This won't change no matter how sensitive the accelerator pedal is.
It is a great quality unit and still well worth having, really good for controlling the throw of the pedal and setting it how you want it. I have mine set on 6 and I notice straight away if it resets back to zero (which does happen on the odd occasion).
When I get in the wife's car and push the pedal I wonder why the hell it doesn't move.
So well worth having to tailor the car to the way you want it to drive, but if a purchaser expects it to remove any lag from zero throttle to getting moving they will be disappointed I'm afraid, as I was
Service from Tim is excellent and a quality product
Comment
-
Matched content
Collapse
Comment