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Driving light switch wiring query

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  • Ovets
    Member
    • Jun 2011
    • 121
    • Canberra

    Driving light switch wiring query

    I recently purchased some driving lights that came with a wiring harness.

    The lights work fine but the harness came with a round dash switch:



    I want to use a rectangular switch so it fits the dash better. The thing is that the rectangular switch I got has 4 wires whereas the round switch only has 3.



    Is anyone able to advise which coloured wires on the rectangular switch match with which wires on the round switch? Is it as simple as matching red, blue and black and ignoring green? There's obviously a spare wire there for whatever reason.

    Any advice would be awesome.
    2011 PB Challenger LS, Charcoal, manual, Hayman Reece towbar, ARB deluxe combo bullbar, Bushskinz bash plates (intercooler, sump and transfer case), Safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson ATZs, dual batteries, Uniden UH7760NB UHF, ARB 60l fridge, custom rear drawers
  • Keithyv
    Valued Member
    • May 2018
    • 1367
    • Perth

    #2
    Probably only 2 of the wires are needed anyway.
    Get yourself a multimeter and work out what 2 wires are closed circuit (connected) when the switch is in its desired on position.

    As shown the round switch will likely connecting the red and black together, and when thrown to the other position will join red & blue.
    Is that rectangular switch one that latches on and off or is it just a momentary switch?

    Bottom line no, it would not just be a matter of matching the colours!
    2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
    MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.

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    • NWDarwin
      Member
      • Jun 2018
      • 70
      • Canberra

      #3
      One will be earth (1 cathode) one will be incoming active (4 anode input), one will be switched active (3 anode output) and the other one is 12v from dash lighting, for the backlighting (2 connect to anode). Like already mentioned, the easiest way to work out which is which is to get a multimeter to check which wires are shorted when the switch is depressed.

      Hopefully the picture uploaded.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by NWDarwin; 09-06-19, 11:56 PM.

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      • Ovets
        Member
        • Jun 2011
        • 121
        • Canberra

        #4
        The switch is this Mitsubishi style (although its not genuine):







        When you push the button in it detents a little and stays in; then when you turn the switch off it "pops" back out again.
        2011 PB Challenger LS, Charcoal, manual, Hayman Reece towbar, ARB deluxe combo bullbar, Bushskinz bash plates (intercooler, sump and transfer case), Safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson ATZs, dual batteries, Uniden UH7760NB UHF, ARB 60l fridge, custom rear drawers

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        • Ovets
          Member
          • Jun 2011
          • 121
          • Canberra

          #5
          I stumbled across this wiring guide for a similar Narva switch:




          I'm assuming the wiring would be the same but will double check with the multimeter.
          2011 PB Challenger LS, Charcoal, manual, Hayman Reece towbar, ARB deluxe combo bullbar, Bushskinz bash plates (intercooler, sump and transfer case), Safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson ATZs, dual batteries, Uniden UH7760NB UHF, ARB 60l fridge, custom rear drawers

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