Ok guys, as promised here is the info on how to install your suspension yourself that will hopefully save you some $$ and help you to become acquainted with the underpinnings of your paj. If you are attempting this for the first time solo, set aside a day to do it without rushing. If you have a helper allow approx 4-6 hrs to complete the job. Don't forget to get a 4 wheel alignment done after the install.
First up a list of tools you will need:
22mm socket, ratchet and breaker bar.
22mm ring/open end spanner, preferably two but one and a large shifter will get you by.
14, 12, 17 and 10mm sockets and ring/open end spanners.
Preferably 2 jacks and 2 chassis/axle stands along with some blocks of wood.
1 x ratchet strap.
Hammer.
2 x spring compressors.
1 x bench vice.
Zip ties.
2 x large shifting spanners.
Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers.
Punch or similar for punching out bolts/aligning holes.
Also 1 x helper can be an advantage and make things easier but the job can be done by one person.
Optional extras to make it easier are air or battery operated rattle/impact gun, air ratchet and torque wrench.
Not a bad idea to run around each corner and measure from bottom wheel lip to underside of guard, make a note of it and do it again once you have completed the install and taken it for a run around the block to see what gain you got. On this particular car we used Lovells MD front lift springs (50mm) + 10mm strut spacer(not shown in write up) and my old Lovells HD rear springs(50mm) + 30mm polly coil spacers. All up we got a lift of around 70mm but that will settle some.
First of all starting on the front you will need to remove the battery/s and tray on passenger side along with air intake assembly on the drivers side to give you access to the the top strut mounts, both these procedures are relatively straight forward with no real tricks so I won't go into detail but if you don't know how to do the above you probably shouldn't be installing suspension.
Make sure you have your radio code before disconnecting the battery!
Next with the vehicle in park, handbrake applied and chocked rear wheels, raise and support the front of the vehicle with jack and axle stands under the front crossmember just high enough to remove wheels. If you do not have an impact loosen the wheel nuts with wheel brace prior to jacking up the front.
Remove front wheels, you will now have access to the front suspension. Working from the wheel side I like to completely remove the upper A-arm which entails removing two 22mm bolts/nuts that connect the A-arm to the sub frame along with 3 x 12mm bolts that secure the arm to the upper ball joint, once these are removed you can set the arm aside, zip tie or secure the arm so it is out of the way and be careful not to damage any hoses/lines that are attached to the arm.
Upper A-arm bolts
Upper ball joint to A-arm bolts removed.
Support lower ball joint with jack while undoing upper ball joint bolts, once bolts removed lower jack to let steering knuckle down.
Now you can move onto loosening the lower strut/shock mounting bolt (22mm), don't remove bolt just yet as it will stop the strut from dropping down while you remove the 3 upper strut nuts up in the engine bay next.
Removing upper strut nuts 14mm.
Now while holding the strut from the wheel side with one hand tap the lower strut/shock mounting bolt out being careful not to damage the thread. You can now remove the whole strut assembly from the vehicle.
More coming soon.
First up a list of tools you will need:
22mm socket, ratchet and breaker bar.
22mm ring/open end spanner, preferably two but one and a large shifter will get you by.
14, 12, 17 and 10mm sockets and ring/open end spanners.
Preferably 2 jacks and 2 chassis/axle stands along with some blocks of wood.
1 x ratchet strap.
Hammer.
2 x spring compressors.
1 x bench vice.
Zip ties.
2 x large shifting spanners.
Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers.
Punch or similar for punching out bolts/aligning holes.
Also 1 x helper can be an advantage and make things easier but the job can be done by one person.
Optional extras to make it easier are air or battery operated rattle/impact gun, air ratchet and torque wrench.
Not a bad idea to run around each corner and measure from bottom wheel lip to underside of guard, make a note of it and do it again once you have completed the install and taken it for a run around the block to see what gain you got. On this particular car we used Lovells MD front lift springs (50mm) + 10mm strut spacer(not shown in write up) and my old Lovells HD rear springs(50mm) + 30mm polly coil spacers. All up we got a lift of around 70mm but that will settle some.
First of all starting on the front you will need to remove the battery/s and tray on passenger side along with air intake assembly on the drivers side to give you access to the the top strut mounts, both these procedures are relatively straight forward with no real tricks so I won't go into detail but if you don't know how to do the above you probably shouldn't be installing suspension.
Make sure you have your radio code before disconnecting the battery!
Next with the vehicle in park, handbrake applied and chocked rear wheels, raise and support the front of the vehicle with jack and axle stands under the front crossmember just high enough to remove wheels. If you do not have an impact loosen the wheel nuts with wheel brace prior to jacking up the front.
Remove front wheels, you will now have access to the front suspension. Working from the wheel side I like to completely remove the upper A-arm which entails removing two 22mm bolts/nuts that connect the A-arm to the sub frame along with 3 x 12mm bolts that secure the arm to the upper ball joint, once these are removed you can set the arm aside, zip tie or secure the arm so it is out of the way and be careful not to damage any hoses/lines that are attached to the arm.
Upper A-arm bolts
Upper ball joint to A-arm bolts removed.
Support lower ball joint with jack while undoing upper ball joint bolts, once bolts removed lower jack to let steering knuckle down.
Now you can move onto loosening the lower strut/shock mounting bolt (22mm), don't remove bolt just yet as it will stop the strut from dropping down while you remove the 3 upper strut nuts up in the engine bay next.
Removing upper strut nuts 14mm.
Now while holding the strut from the wheel side with one hand tap the lower strut/shock mounting bolt out being careful not to damage the thread. You can now remove the whole strut assembly from the vehicle.
More coming soon.
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