Bash Plates

[JohnFromPerth]

Looking to put some bash plates under my vehicle to replace the flimsy plastic.

Has anyone had any overheating problems due to possible restricted airflow from the engine bay caused by the plates?

[Ozkiwi]

None at all.. I have Bushskiz 6mm alloy bash plates under my 2018 Exceed and do a lot of offroad driving plus towing a 1500kg camper trailer and never had a heating problem.

[JohnFromPerth]

Thanks Ozkiwi.
Looking at Boos bash plates.
Will check with them.
John

[markw829]

Hi John, I installed stainless steel 3mm bash plates (Boo's from Kilsyth in VIC no affiliations) and very happy. Recently crossed the Simpson and hit the underside a few times on sandy dunes but no obvious damage. Cheers

[Ian H]

No overheating issues with a full set of Boos in my NX, so I can't see why the Sport would be different.

[whynot]

2 vehicles. Fraser island. Same damage. Normal sand driving

[JohnFromPerth]

Thanks for the feedback
Purchased a set of 3mm Boo's plates in zinc coated steel.
Surprised by the quick delivery.
Will install them this weekend when the weather improves.

[JohnFromPerth]

Clear weather today, so bolted on the bash plates from Boo's. Really easy job and took about an hour.
Used a couple of wood blocks to hold the plates in position while doing up the bolts.

Boo's send four 8x25mm bolts for fixing the rear plate over the transmission, but there are enough bolts that held the old plastic guard on to do the job with two left over as spares.

Look good and are very strong. Recommended.

[spot01]

Clear weather today, so bolted on the bash plates from Boo's. Really easy job and took about an hour.
Used a couple of wood blocks to hold the plates in position while doing up the bolts.

Boo's send four 8x25mm bolts for fixing the rear plate over the transmission, but there are enough bolts that held the old plastic guard on to do the job with two left over as spares.

Look good and are very strong. Recommended.

Sounds good, but just a thought re the bolts - are Boo's any different, eg, high tensile, etc? (bolts may look the same, but there are different strengths, threads, etc.)

[old Jack]

After 8 years and 150,000kms of aftermarket underbody guards being fitted, and having continuly having loose bolts, missing bolts, loose guards and broken mounts, and having tried all sorts of bolts and lock washer combinations.

I have found the combination at Champion High Tensile 8.8 bolts fitted with Nord Lock washers and anti seize on the threads to be the best method of attaching aftermarket guards.

M8x30 Flange head bolts from Repco.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/champion-fasteners/champion-screw-nut-pack-m8-x-30mm-c495-11/p/A9247222

M8 Nord Lock washers from United Fasteners.

https://www.unitedfasteners.com.au/washers-274/nord-lock-washers/standard-washers

OJ.

[JohnFromPerth]

I just re-used the Mitsubishi bolts that held on the tinplate front guard and the plastic splash guard under the transmission. They have a flat washer and a spring washer on them. Look like zinc finish standard 8mm bolts.

Will Hi Tensile bolts fit the threaded holes in the chassis? In my experience Hi Test bolts have a finer thread.

Did think of using some Locktite but the plates have to come off each service to get at the oil filter and sump drain plug.

Will keep an eye on the bolts and take your advice if there are any problems.

[old Jack]

I just re-used the Mitsubishi bolts that held on the tinplate front guard and the plastic splash guard under the transmission. They have a flat washer and a spring washer on them. Look like zinc finish standard 8mm bolts.

Will Hi Tensile bolts fit the threaded holes in the chassis? In my experience Hi Test bolts have a finer thread.

Did think of using some Locktite but the plates have to come off each service to get at the oil filter and sump drain plug.

Will keep an eye on the bolts and take your advice if there are any problems.

The Champion flange head HT bolts are automotive thread pitch. Since the under body guards need to be removed for service you could only use a low strength Locktite.
I have found that without using antiseize the bolts can be hard to remove when required. The nut thread in the mounts are easy to strip out, when this happens you need to repair the mount by replacing the weld nut of remove and weld on a new mount.

OJ.

[JohnFromPerth]

Thanks Jack.
Good thought on the anti seize.
Now the plates are in place, I will remove each bolt in turn and apply some anti seize.

[sharkcaver]

You don't have to use anti-seize, in fact I've found anti-seize to be not beneficial at all. From copper coat to Nickel anti-seize, I find that the stuff tends to dry out and forms a coarse pasty compound that increases the torque required to remove the bolt after a period. Compounded when driven through water, mud and dry dusty conditions. For me, I just use an oil or light grease. This tends to still stay reasonably "wet", provides corrosion protection and helps with bolt removal. You could even use some old engine oil for the purpose.

I also make sure I degrease my bolts every time I remove them and then coat in fresh oil. I still get the "crunchie" bits (accumulated crud stuck to the bolt) when removing, but I find an oil works better than anti-seize in this instance. Just my observations that some wont agree with I'm sure.

[Lost1]

Like a lot on here I am running Bushskinz 4mm Steel bash plates. No Cooling issues to date and they have saved me once or twice. That is enough to justify the purchase.

I use spring washers to hold my bash plate bolts in for limited effect. I find the left front bolts will always vibrate loose, whilst everything else remains tight??? Not sure why, there must be a vibration in the ute that contributes to this. Thanks for the tip OJ, I will be giving the Norlock washers a crack.

Like Sharkcaver I have always used a bit of grease on threads to prevent corrosion that can cause threads to seize.