Oodnadatta, Alice Springs and more

[my.paj]

Thinking on going up to Alice Springs with the kids and going through the Oodnadatta track also was interested in Birdsville.
Wanting to know what to look out for or any suggestions on what to see.

[old Jack]

When to do plan on going and how long for?
Are you happy to bush camp?
Towing, if so what?

OJ.

[my.paj]

Swags and motel if when available, no towing, late Sept start Oct, I can get 3 weeks but I wish I had 5.
Duel cab tray with roof rack.

[Nab]

We went through around 12 months ago, we got a bad "vibe" at Oodnadatta so we camped about 80km further north at Kathleen Springs (not by choice, kids were vomiting and was getting late) and turned out to be a great spot. Track was pretty smooth, just some rough corrugations either side of Coward Springs.

In Alice we stayed at G'day Mate CP just for a night as it was pouring rain, nice enough place with big security gates.

[Benduro]

We went same time of year a couple of years ago and found some nice free camps on the Murray not far from Mildura.
Next spot was Coward Springs on the Oodnadatta Track. This was a ripper spot and the natural hot spring was great... Clear night, hot spring cold beer We got lucky as it was set to close the next day.
Plenty of spots off the road on way to Alice but the flies could/will drive you nuts. Get some head nets!
West Macs were one of the highlights of our half lap. Loved Ellery Big Hole, especially as it was getting hot.
Plenty to see on the short cut to Kings/Ularu/Kata Juta (Mereenie Loop).
Then for us it was onto the Central Road to WA.

Enjoy!

[old Jack]

Birdsville is a bit out of the way and you need to go further north to Boula then head west across the Plenty Highway and this can be slow going and since you only have 3 weeks may be best left for another trip.
If you can squeeze an extra day or 2 then this will give your more time. Either way it will be about a 5,000 to 5,500 km trip so hope the kids are good travellers.
Below is a 25 day trip and this does not even get you into the eastern MacDonald Ranges.
3 days to Yulara via the blacktop from Melbourne, overnighting in Adelaide and Coober Pedy. 2,300km roughly.
2 days at Yulara & Kata Tjuta.
2 days at Kings Canyon.
2 days on the Merrinie Loop to Alice Springs, camp overnight at Redbank Gorge (good swimming hole but water is cold!)
3 days in Alice Springs and close surrounds. Laundary and restock supplys.
2 days Alice Springs to Rainbow Valley via Hermansburg, Finke Gorge National Park, camp overnight at Boggy Hole, then Henbury Meteorite Conservation Reserve, Rainbow Valley.
1 day Rainbow Valley.
1 day Chambers Pillar via Hugh River.
1 day along the Old Ghan railway to Mt Dare on the western edge of the Simo.
1 day Dalhousie Ruins and Springs.
1 day to Oodnadatta then to William Creek.
1 day to Farina via Marree.
2 days in the Flinders Ranges.
1 day to Adelaide.
1 day to Melbourne.

September and October are starting to get warm, even up to the mid 30's.

OJ.

[my.paj]

We went through around 12 months ago, we got a bad "vibe" at Oodnadatta so we camped about 80km further north at Kathleen Springs (not by choice, kids were vomiting and was getting late) and turned out to be a great spot. Track was pretty smooth, just some rough corrugations either side of Coward Springs.

In Alice we stayed at G'day Mate CP just for a night as it was pouring rain, nice enough place with big security gates.

" big security gates" should I ask why, I think I know

[my.paj]

Thanks OJ at first I was just thinking on the Oodnadatta then you think wow not to far from Alice and you know the rest, I need need to think about frying through or slowing down and do the rest next year.

[old Jack]

Thanks OJ at first I was just thinking on the Oodnadatta then you think wow not to far from Alice and you know the rest, I need need to think about frying through or slowing down and do the rest next year.

Yes, so much to to see, so far to travel and such little time.
You could easily spend 3 weeks just looking around the Flinders Ranges!

We did the listed intinery back in late Sept 97, the kids were 9 & 7 but from Adelaide and bypassed the Flinders on the way home, it took 19 days. Kids were very seasoned campers and tourers by then and we had about an hours turn around time on setting up or packing up.

OJ.

[Having Fun]

From Melb I would miss Adel & go up to Mildura, Remark, Burra, Peterborough, Orroroo, Hawker, Leigh Creek, Lyndhurst, Marree. Just a heads up that the servo at Terowie was closed earlier this year, so if you're getting low at Burra, I'd fill up there - next fuel from there is Peterborough (which is also the last place you'll get reasonably priced fuel till Alice Springs). Both Burra & Orroroo are great places for a lunch break/coffee. Both have coffee shops. Orroroo is also the last town you'll pass with a small supermarket, if you go this way (EDIT: I forgot about Leigh Creek - there's a supermarket there also, and most other services). The butcher there is pretty good too!

Hawker has a variety of accommodation options, 3 servos & a small minimart. The pub may have re-opened by the time you get there? There are 2 roads north of Hawker; one to Leigh Ck (and on to Oodnadatta) & the other to Wilpena/Blinman. Given your 3 week time frame, I'd miss the Flinders this time & continue on up to Oodnadatta.

Not much at Lyndhurst, but there is a pub & the pub also sells fuel. There are Aboriginal Ochre Pits just north of town that are worth a look.

The ruins of Farina are between Lyndhurst & Marree & worth stopping to look at! The tar also finishes on that stretch of road. The Strzelecki Track also starts here & heads north east from here to Innamincka.

Marree is worth at least half a day looking around. There are various accommodation options there & the caravan park has a certain rustic charm. The Birdsville Track heads north east from here. Given your 3 week time frame, I'd forget Birdsville this trip! Its 519km's up that track & then either another 519km's back down, or out the long way via Windorah, Eromanga, Warri Gate, Tibooburra, Broken Hill, back to Melb.

You can drive out to Lake Eyre from either Marree, or just south of William Ck, but there is a viewing area for Lake Eyre South on the track itself. With your time frame, I'd take this last option.

From Marree, you're on the Oodnadatta track & there will be ruins very frequently to stop & have a look at, mostly railway sidings. This section can be quite busy, with people coming up the borefield Rd & driving down the lower part of the OT towards you.

Next is William Creek, there is a caravan park, rooms, fuel & a pub there. The pub meals are great!

I like the next stretch of the track the most! Peake is definitely worth a look, as is the bridge at Algebuckina. Then, before you know it, you're in Oodnadatta. There are rooms & a "caravan park" behind the Pink Roadhouse. You can get local tourist maps from the roadhouse.

From there, you have 3 options!

1) If you backtrack a short way, you can head out into the Painted desert (brilliant!) & on out to the Stuart Hwy near Cadney Park. The road is more remote than the Oodnadatta Track & you need to be totally prepared & self reliant in case of breakdown/emergency. I loved it! Fuel, food & accommodation at Cadney Park.

2) Keep going on the track & come out on the Stuart Hwy at Marla - not much to see on this section, just more dirt road, no more railway sidings, but you'll likely have had enough of them by then lol! Fuel, food & accommodation at Marla.

From Marla, north on the tar (Stuart Hwy), Kulgera has fuel & food. Erldunda - full services. Uluru ($$$) - Kings Canyon ($$$ again) is still on the tar if you go that way. I was underwhelmed by Kings Canyon, you may be different. You can either backtrack from Kings Canyon & out on the tar to the Stuart Hwy at Erldunda (if your family are over dirt roads by now!), or continue up the Meerenie Loop (a good dirt road). You need a permit for the Mereenie Loop. I've discounted the Ernest Giles Rd, as I wasn't impressed. The Henbury Craters are ordinary IMO! If you do go up the Mereenie Loop I'd go a short way up Namatjira drive from the loop (tar rd) & have a look at Gosses Bluff from the lookout (you could go all the way to Alice on the tar that way - lots to see!), or back down onto the loop & onto Hermannsberg & Palm Valley. There's a sign saying "severe 4WD" or something at the entrance to Palm Valley, make your own mind up on that, I thought it was a nice drive. From Hermannsberg to Alice is tar road.

3) Keep going north towards Finke. Once again, this is remote country. You will need to be very prepared if you're going this way. I took some older family members on a trip out this way & the responsibility weighed heavily on me. Only you know if you want that kind of responsibility. The trip into Dalhousie is well worth the effort, but the "shortcut" from Dalhousie to Mt Dare is the stuff of nightmares! Much more fun to drive back out the way you went in back to Hamilton & up to Eringa Waterhole (not to be missed if you go this way). From there, up to Charlotte Waters & out at Finke. Fuel at Finke. No accommodation. Fuel, food, grog & beds at Mt. Dare.

From Finke, you have 2 options, but bear in mind that your family has been on dirt roads now since you left Marree;

1) take the road west to Kulgera. Its an easy dirt road & Lambert's Centre is about 14km off the road (worth a visit).

2) Continue on up the Old Ghan Heritage track (this section is very remote & sandy. Your fuel usage will go up) No services till Maryvale. Fuel & food at Maryvale.

From Maryvale, you could either detour to Chambers Pillar, or continue on to Alice. The road from Maryvale to Alice is a good dirt road. Aboriginal rock carvings along the way.

In Alice, you are spoiled for choice on accommodation options. As said, the G'day Mate is a nice park, as are some of the others. I've been to Alice a number of times & have never felt nervous there, nor fear for my safety, not once! Nor in Oodnadatta!

The western gorges out on Namatjira drive are probably the most spectacular around Alice, but the eastern ranges, Cooroberee Rock, Ross River, N'Dhala, Arltunga etc are worth a drive.

I hope that's given you something to think about! Clearly you won't get all of that in in 3 weeks, but there is so much to see up there! I'd save Birdsville for another trip!

The 1st time I went up there, along with Uluru & the Olgas, the ranges around Alice were pretty much all we did. We did Palm Valley & a balloon flight at dawn & that was it. That was a 2 week trip out of Adelaide.

[Having Fun]

Just in case someone reads this thread looking for info, that is towing; At Redbank Gorge - there are no signs saying not suitable for caravans as you enter. IMO there should be.

Approaching the car park, as you come around a bend, there is a somewhat steep hill going down. By the time you see it, its too late, you're committed to going down if there's a van behind you.

No dramas going down, but quite different getting back out. As I said, its on a blind corner as you come in. If a caravan was on the way back up & out, you'd be on them before you knew it. If the van had to stop, it could be nasty! Loose gravel on a steep slope with a caravan in tow, scary stuff!

[my.paj]

Wow thanks for that you have made it very easy to navigate, I just now need to get the kids to sit down and help work out what parts to see and do.
I may have to trim the days off due to work issues but will do as much as possible.

[Having Fun]

Even if you go straight up the Stuart Hwy from Pt Augusta & haven't been that way before, it can be an adventure, especially with kids!

We went up that way a few times before we ventured out onto the Oodnadatta track etc.

You can easily access "the Breakaways" just north of Coober Pedy, its just off the Hwy & pretty awesome. Same with "Rainbow Valley"

Woomera, Island Lagoon, Lake Heart, Glendambo, Coober Pedy, Cadney Park, Marla, Kulgera, Uluru & the Olgas & Stuart's Well are all OK places to stop.


Have stayed at the Stuart Range caravan park & in a room in there at Coober Pedy & loved it. They have a pizza joint on site & the pizzas were pretty good.

Have also stayed in a motel room & the caravan park at the Opal Inn. Basic, but good. The meals in the pub are pretty good.

Stayed in the Mud Hut Motel once too, pretty good also.

Lambert's Centre is an easy return drive from Kulgera.

Uluru/Olgas - what can I say! Pretty awesome

Stuart's Well - a pub in the middle of nowhere! Love it!

The family will thank you if you stay on the tar on the way up & you can get your dose of dirt around the gorges out of Alice.

[old Jack]

Always a great feed at Tom and Mary's Greek resturaunt in Coober Pedy.
Agree with "Having Fun" there is lots to do and see on or just off the main drag.

OJ.

[MiteeWidge]

National Transport Hall of Fame is worth a look as well if any interest in road transport. Kenworth has a great display. Went across the Plenty in September with lots of canyon walk. Still a little cool in the mornings but ideal during the day. I also enjoyed the look around Hermannsberg.