PC Challenger Auto Trans Reverse Issue

[old Jack]

Hi Desi,

Recapping,
Auto can be selected to reverse and car will reverse but no dash "R" display on dash, no reversing lights and no reversing camera.
Is this correct?

If so then check you have 12vdc at the Red/Green wire on the downstream side of the plug that connects the inhibit switch to the wiring loom. Check this from the back of the plug by inserting a multimeter probe where the wires enter the plug, the negative probe to a good earth point, do this when the ignition is ON and the selector is in reverse, engine not running. Check both sides of the plug. If you have 12vdc on both sides this plug, trace the wiring loom back to the next plug and repeat the voltage checks.

This is a simple circuit.


OJ.

[Despicable]

Yes Old Jack, everything electrical associated with reverse isn’t working, but car does engage reverse and drives in reverse. I haven’t seen any other electrical issues, everything else is working fine. I did mention in an earlier post that I thought it seemed to engage reverse more harshly than I recall, but I’m not so sure about that now. There is a noticeable difference between engaging reverse and drive, but it’s not too bad. I’m certain the fault is purely electrical.
Chasing the wiring was my next step, and thanks for your input and advice. Do you know if the reverse light fuse in the dash is on the dead side or the live side of the inhibitor switch? I would expect it to be on the dead side and only be live when reverse is engaged. I’m sure power gets to the inhibitor switch as I have D,N and P in the dash display. I’m thinking I will test for power at the fuse first, if I have power when reverse is selected, then between the gearbox box should be ok. If no power, I’ll chase from the gearbox.

Cheers,
Despicable.

[old Jack]

Yes Old Jack, everything electrical associated with reverse isn’t working, but car does engage reverse and drives in reverse. I haven’t seen any other electrical issues, everything else is working fine. I did mention in an earlier post that I thought it seemed to engage reverse more harshly than I recall, but I’m not so sure about that now. There is a noticeable difference between engaging reverse and drive, but it’s not too bad. I’m certain the fault is purely electrical.
Chasing the wiring was my next step, and thanks for your input and advice. Do you know if the reverse light fuse in the dash is on the dead side or the live side of the inhibitor switch? I would expect it to be on the dead side and only be live when reverse is engaged. I’m sure power gets to the inhibitor switch as I have D,N and P in the dash display. I’m thinking I will test for power at the fuse first, if I have power when reverse is selected, then between the gearbox box should be ok. If no power, I’ll chase from the gearbox.

Cheers,
Despicable.

Circuit diagram.

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_sport_2008/maintenance/Service_Manual_2009_2011/img/90/HAM09X06AC00ENG.pdf

You obviously have power to the inhibit switch as P, D & N are all displaying on the dash.
If you look at the circuit diagram, follow the left hand side of the circuit diagram as this is for the AT, the rightside of the circuit diagram is for the manual transmission.
You can see that the "R" display, reverse lamps and the reversing camera are all powered by the Red /Green wire coming out of the inhibit switch. This is why I am suggesting you start at the switch and work your way from there.

OJ.

[Despicable]

Fixed.

I had broken a wire when I fed a power cable through the passenger side firewall grommet. I had chased the live cable to inside the car, but let an auto sparky take it from there. I am colour blind and the further I chased the wire the harder it was to follow it.

This broken wire had an impact on how smoothly the Challenger engaged reverse gear. When the wire was broken reverse would engage more harshly, sort of felt half way between normal and how a broken engine mount feels. My Challenger now has all the reverse electronics working and engages reverse very smoothly.

The auto sparky had the car for 3 hours and charged $200 for the repair, which I was more than happy with. This included clearing an airbag light that stayed on after I tried to start the car with a low battery after working on it for a few hours.

I gave the Challenger a good run for a couple of hundred k’s yesterday and all was good. Purely a case of human error, with no fault attributed to the Challenger.
Thanks for your help and support.

Regards,
Despicable.

[amec]

Good result, glad to see its all working again.