Donaldson P551615 Bracket using existing Fuel Filter mounting bolts

[Pajshomoneroguntero]

The threads are sealed with Permatex high performance thread sealant placed well back from the start of the male threads, but the fittings get progressively tighter - I doubt you really need thread sealer they are that tight. But if it prevents an issue with leaks then it's worth it. Will leave the sealer to dry until tomorrow and then prime the system.

I too found the fittings getting very tight however I think it is probably to do with the shear force exerted by the aluminium manifold. I went for the same liquid sealer too.

[Eastie]

One thing I missed - Make sure to inspect new fittings for crap before you install them!

One of the naparts brass fittings had black material in it stuck to inside of the fitting, looked to be from the machining. Not great quality control! It was stuck firm and didn't blow out with compressed air, so I cleaned all the new fittings with MAF cleaner which moved some of the stuff, and the rest I got out with a 30 calibre brass bore brush followed by a good blast of MAF cleaner.

[Eastie]

Eastie
Very neat set up.
I'm not sure which Ryco you are using however if a Z699 this will have similar specifications to Donaldson ...316. The Z699 is 4 micron at 94% efficiency. The Donaldson ...615 is 3 micron @ 99% efficiency.
A Donaldson replacement for factory filter P550385 is rated at 12 micron @97.5% and will be equal or better than MM filter. These are the specifications I have used to estimate factory filter as 10 micron at 95% efficiency.
A 10 micron (or so) primary filter would be my choice as I have no way of measuring the pressure drop a Z699 and Donaldson..615 will develop over time. Indeed this may be negligible.
I have a Z699 as a spare filter and may run it for 15k with a Donaldson ..316 when the time comes and cut both filters open to check condition.

Hill

Here's the inside of a Ryco Z699 primary after 4 months/11,000km. I've had no issues running it in line with the Donaldson P903316 3-micron filter kit. Fuel has been BP/BP ultimate /BP winter. Not a great deal of contamination. Thinking that based on running the Ryco before the Donaldson I'll hold off on changing the Donaldson over until around 12 month/20-30,000 km and stick to 10,000km-15,000km changeover on the Ryco's.

[85L200Express]

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll finally be installing my kit this week, along with replacing the original fuel filter as I'm not sure when that was done last by the previous owner!

Hopefully it all goes well!

[HeavyPizzaz]

Donaldson P551615 Bracket using existing Fuel Filter mounting bolts

I have one of these filters ready to be installed as per Hill’s install including new bracket.

What’s this that these “pre OEM filter proponents” are saying here about contaminants going downstream into injectors during filter changes? I don’t get it...




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[Dicko1]

I have one of these filters ready to be installed as per Hill’s install including new bracket.

What’s this that these “pre OEM filter proponents” are saying here about contaminants going downstream into injectors during filter changes? I don’t get it...




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Wankers...

[vladguan]

I presume containments is the paint. However, Donaldson have said that the paint is on the pre-filter side so is a non-issue.

Besides, dust can get in when changing the OEM filter as well.

Seriously though, all you do is unscrew old filter and screw in new filter and unless you are in a very dusty environment, I cannot see how dust has a higher chance of getting into the Donaldson filter than the OEM one.

[HeavyPizzaz]

Donaldson P551615 Bracket using existing Fuel Filter mounting bolts

Seriously though, all you do is unscrew old filter and screw in new filter and unless you are in a very dusty environment, I cannot see how dust has a higher chance of getting into the Donaldson filter than the OEM one.

That’s exactly what I was thinking hey. I was just so confused. Wondered if I’d missed something.


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[Hill]

Must admit I work from the premise of only believing half of what I read and half of what people tell me, do a little research and make up my own mind.

What a load of .....

Hill

[nj swb]

Must admit I work from the premise of only believing half of what I read and half of what people tell me, do a little research and make up my own mind.

What a load of .....

Hill

I've come to the conclusion, 'cause I surf the 'net a bit, that half of what you read is bull, and the other half's all sh!t!

With apologies to Kevin Bloody Wilson.

[Techedz]

I know no-one has posted on this for 12 months but I'm buying a Fuel Master generic kit as I can't see one listed for the Pajero. To save me pulling it apart to measure, I assume I need the one with the 5/16" barbs (not the 3/8')? I'm making my own bracket.

[Hill]

Western filters have a FM kit for Pajero.

Check fuel lines re bard size.

https://www.westernfilters.net.au/os-fm607dpk-gos-mitsubishi-pajero-2006-on-ns-nt-nw-3-2l-turbo-diesel/?CAWELAID=120178940000007932&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=59006129505&CATCI=pla-460844997728&CATARGETID=120178940000038979&CADevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIga2r2fTR5QIVyw0rCh3ZDQYoEAQYAiABEgI-DPD_BwE

I prefer the Donaldson kit. I believe it has better water removal properties ie emulsified water @95%

Hill

[Techedz]

Thanks for that Hill. Just found your other post on this topic which has helpful info as well. So it seems they are 10 mm (3/8"). I'll save some money and make my own bracket as I have access to all the gear.
Cheers Eddy

[Techedz]

I know this will just add fire to the debate, but everything I have read on here has made the assumption that fitting a pre or post filter is necessary. I was going to fit one, but I thought I'd ask a local professional who's been rebuilding and servicing diesel engines for 60 years.

Two engine rebuild/service professionals in Australia recommend that you do not fit a pre or post-filter. I've just done some reading after talking to Cooma Diesel who said they have seen too many damaged pumps and motors from people fitting secondary filters to the CRD as they restrict flow too much. They only recommend fitting a water watch system ($590) as they say water is the big killer on many CRD diesels and can cost you $10's of thousands of dollars to fix. See this article. They say the CRD pressure is 30,000 psi and emulsifies the water so it is in solution with the diesel which means the filter can only remove a very small amount of the water, the rest stays in the system and rusts the inside of the metal lines. An average of 9 litres of diesel is consumed by the motor each hour with another of 50 litres cycled through for cooling and lubrication of the pump and then returned to the tank, so your whole tank is cycled through every 2 hours or so. The video on their page shows how easily it is for water to pass through a 0.2 micron filter, even easier than diesel. The smallest filter discussed here is only 2 micron.

I know Donaldson's say they have tested their filter system and it only restricts the flow by 0.2% but they are in the business of selling filters and filter systems.

Berrima Diesels also support what Cooma diesel say - pre-filter-kits

They both say the factory filter is designed in conjunction with the supplier of the injectors and should be the only one that is used and changed regularly.

Water Watch is made by Responsive Engineering who I assume are Cooma Diesel as they have the same address listed and was designed and made here in Australia to stop water damage in diesels while providing zero flow restriction. Some might be cynical about them just wanting to sell thier product but they say they saw a need and designed a solution.

They also sell their own blend of Responsive Common Rail Diesel Fuel Additive Lubricant And Conditioner which they say is needed in Australia as the low sulfur diesel has very poor lubrication properties.

[vladguan]

I know this will just add fire to the debate, but everything I have read on here has made the assumption that fitting a pre or post filter is necessary. I was going to fit one, but I thought I'd ask a local professional who's been rebuilding and servicing diesel engines for 60 years.

Two engine rebuild/service professionals in Australia recommend that you do not fit a pre or post-filter. I've just done some reading after talking to Cooma Diesel who said they have seen too many damaged pumps and motors from people fitting secondary filters to the CRD as they restrict flow too much. They only recommend fitting a water watch system ($590) as they say water is the big killer on many CRD diesels and can cost you $10's of thousands of dollars to fix. See this article. They say the CRD pressure is 30,000 psi and emulsifies the water so it is in solution with the diesel which means the filter can only remove a very small amount of the water, the rest stays in the system and rusts the inside of the metal lines. An average of 9 litres of diesel is consumed by the motor each hour with another of 50 litres cycled through for cooling and lubrication of the pump and then returned to the tank, so your whole tank is cycled through every 2 hours or so. The video on their page shows how easily it is for water to pass through a 0.2 micron filter, even easier than diesel. The smallest filter discussed here is only 2 micron.

I know Donaldson's say they have tested their filter system and it only restricts the flow by 0.2% but they are in the business of selling filters and filter systems.

Berrima Diesels also support what Cooma diesel say - pre-filter-kits

They both say the factory filter is designed in conjunction with the supplier of the injectors and should be the only one that is used and changed regularly.

Water Watch is made by Responsive Engineering who I assume are Cooma Diesel as they have the same address listed and was designed and made here in Australia to stop water damage in diesels while providing zero flow restriction. Some might be cynical about them just wanting to sell thier product but they say they saw a need and designed a solution.

They also sell their own blend of Responsive Common Rail Diesel Fuel Additive Lubricant And Conditioner which they say is needed in Australia as the low sulfur diesel has very poor lubrication properties.

Hmm, the emulsifying bit does not make sense. The pump is after the filter, not before. The pump sucks diesel through the filter constantly to maintain pressure in the rail.