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  • NinjaNanna
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2016
    • 12
    • ACT

    Newbie with a PA

    Hi Guys,

    What an awesome site - I've recently acquired a 2005 PA and surprise surprise it has a couple of issues.

    1. The 4WD light isn't coming on when in 4H but the fronts are definately driving.
    2. The 4WD light doesn't come on prior to starting (is it supposed to???)
    3. I haven't been able to get it to shift into 4L


    I started working on 1&2 today - courtesy of this fantastic article http://4wd.blogeasy.com/ that I found linked here.

    First up I removed the instrument cluster - hoping for a blown bulb (as you do) - bulb was fine but just for good measure I swapped it for the ANTI-LOCK one just to be sure.

    Next I climbed under the old girl - removed the bash plate and started poking - I found that I only had suction on the blue line (when in 4WD). No suction whatsoever from the yellow line when in 2WD (or 4WD but that's meant to be the case isn't it?).

    Moved up to the solenoids, got thrown off the scent a little bit by an incorrect assumption (yes yes mother of all $#^ ups) - anyway I thought both solenoids were the same so one should be energised when in 2WD and the other in 4WD. Well no they are both energised in 4WD - but one appears to be normally open while the other is normally closed. At least that's what I found, can anybody confirm that for me?

    Freewheel position sensor was measuring short, which I understand sends the signal "I'm in 4wd" which made sense based on only having "blue" suction - but still no 4wd light.

    I've ordered new solenoids off ebay tonight ($100 for the pair) hopefully I've diagnosed correctly and not ordered something I didn't need and hopefully I haven't been ripped off does $100 sound reasonable? Once they arrive I'll fit and check the front diff is locking the way it should and reconfirm the position sensor is reliable. If still no light then I guess we move further down the chain to the transfer case and all those switches. Does the PA have all 5 like the Pajero in that article?


    So at the end of all that I have a few questions that I hope somebody can answer:

    1. Based on the above would it be fair to conclude that my front diff has been permanently engaged since the yellow solenoid gave up the ghost?

    2. Would that matter? Does power only go to the front diff when the shift lever is in 4H or 4L anyway?

    3. Should the 4wd light come on when you turn the ignition on prior to starting? If the lever is in the 2H position?

    4. Should the 4wd light come on when you turn the ignition on prior to starting? If the lever is in the 4H position?

    5. Should I be shitting myself yet that I can't get it to go into 4L?

    6. Where's the best place to buy the different position sensor switches?

    7. Does the PA have 5 switches on the Transfer Case like the Pajero in that really helpful blog?



    Oh yeah and because it's kind of poor form to join up and start asking questions here's a pic of last weekends project - a bit of a false floor to make more storage space for the camping trips. Few hours work with a bit of left over mdf and some carpet sourced from bunnings $17 later I reckon it's not to shabby. Its assymetrical because Little generator fits down the left and the fuel on the right, storage boxes underneath, food, clothes etc piled on top.



    And here's a photo of the campground that convinced me I needed a 4wd to replace the BT50 work vehicle that I need to give back at Christmas



    Cheers guys
    Shane
    aka NinjaNanna
    Attached Files
  • 900canoes
    Valued Member
    • May 2008
    • 702
    • FNQ

    #2
    A good chance the solenoids will fix the prob. I've gotten away with cleaning the connectors in them.

    Also check your vac line from the LH rear of the inlet manifold (topside), you will need to lift off the plastic engine cover to see it (see pic) this is the line that goes to the solenoids.. Mine was broken and I was getting all sorts of lights coming up incl abs/esc.
    Attached Files
    2010 (MY11) PB LS Manual. 2017 LS-U DMax spacecab.

    Comment

    • NinjaNanna
      Junior Member
      • Dec 2016
      • 12
      • ACT

      #3
      Thanks 900canoes

      Yep had the busted line also - was able to trim and reattach.

      Hopefully the new solenoids arrive tomorrow or Friday so I can fit them on the weekend.

      Fingers crossed the towbar shows up before then too.

      Comment

      • 900canoes
        Valued Member
        • May 2008
        • 702
        • FNQ

        #4
        Answer to your question #3, no the 4wd light wont be on with the ign on and with 2H selected.

        Answer to #4, yes but I cant confirm as my PA is in garage ATM

        4L can be tricky to select if it has not been used for a while, manipulating the selector with pressure to one side or the other can find it, also it may need a firm push fwd to get that last bit of movement out of it.
        2010 (MY11) PB LS Manual. 2017 LS-U DMax spacecab.

        Comment

        • NinjaNanna
          Junior Member
          • Dec 2016
          • 12
          • ACT

          #5
          Thanks Mate,

          I'll keep working at the 4L engagement - it wouldn't surprise me if its never been used in its 180,000km life. Not that I can talk I probably won't use it either I bought it for 4H but I would like to know 4L works if I need it.

          Just hope I don't get it to go in and then can't get it out - that would be

          Comment

          • Wicks747
            Member
            • Oct 2014
            • 203
            • Alice Springs

            #6
            Hi Shane.
            Good too see a few guys with PAs getting around still. Mine was great value for money when I had it, they just tend to hurt the wallet abit at the fuel pump if you do a lot of kms with them.

            Couple of things I would say. If your PA is an auto and you intend on towing and sand driving etc look into an aftermarket transmission cooler if it doesn't have one already. As standard the engine and trans share the same cooler and it's easy to cook both.

            Secondly I went down of the road of fitting aftermarket manual hubs and locking the front actuator, that way your 4wd is back to basics just not as convenient. If the solenoids fix your problem great, but if it turns out to be one of the switches on the top of the trans that opens up a hole new can of worms.

            Have fun with it.
            James.
            Sold 2004 PA Challenger
            Current 2010 XLT Ford Ranger. TJM winch bar, ARB rear bar, Gme uhf, Goodyear Wranglers, dual battery, light force blitz 240s, hard korr lightbar, bushskinz bash plates. Helical torque lock lsd.

            Comment

            • NinjaNanna
              Junior Member
              • Dec 2016
              • 12
              • ACT

              #7
              Thanks James

              I'll be towing a poptop camper about 1200kg give or take. Only towing it around SNSW at this stage. If I head north or start towing anything heavier I'll definitely be adding a transmission cooler.

              The car I've bought only has 180,000km on it and from what I've seen around the old girls are good for 300-350,000km so I expect to keep her for a long while - so the cooler will be money well spent.

              I found this diagram online which I suspect is very similar to the setup in the Challenger.

              If it is I'm fairly certain switch 3 is stuffed and that's the reason for no 4wd light. I'm thinking I can live without the light.

              Cheers
              Shane

              Comment

              • Wicks747
                Member
                • Oct 2014
                • 203
                • Alice Springs

                #8
                Yea mine was an ex ambulance/gov vechile from NSW when new I was the 3rd owner. Same as yours I guess the PAII with the coil rear. I purchased it with 240,000km on it and had it till 300k km. Sold it to a friend, it doesn't get used as much but still going I believe. Was using about 1lt of oil extra between 10k services at that point. Like I said for what I needed it to do which was a lot of outback dirt and highway driving it was great. Especially for the pice I payed for it.

                I had similar issues where the front diff wasn't engaging so I just installed manual locking hubs and locked the front actuator.

                So I would expect yours to go the same distance if looked after. S
                Sold 2004 PA Challenger
                Current 2010 XLT Ford Ranger. TJM winch bar, ARB rear bar, Gme uhf, Goodyear Wranglers, dual battery, light force blitz 240s, hard korr lightbar, bushskinz bash plates. Helical torque lock lsd.

                Comment

                • NinjaNanna
                  Junior Member
                  • Dec 2016
                  • 12
                  • ACT

                  #9
                  no solenoids from Postman Pat yet - but the towbar arrived today. Couriers are working Saturdays at this time of year so hopefully solenoids get delivered tomorrow.

                  Fitted up the towbar this afternoon - easy job - just 4 bolts - and they weren't even rusted or seized - not sure how that can be

                  Have to wire the plug tomorrow - any tips to save me some time?

                  Comment

                  • NinjaNanna
                    Junior Member
                    • Dec 2016
                    • 12
                    • ACT

                    #10
                    Well Friday evening and Saturday were taken up fitting the towbar, 7 pin plug and brake controller - fairly straightforward except for getting the cable through the firewall. Eventually took it into work so I could use the "cable snake" to get through the gland/grommet. Once that was through it was a piece of cake to finish off the instal but that saw a good chunk of Sunday disappear too.



                    Solenoids showed up today - fitted them in less than 10mins. So much easier when I removed the air-filter to throttle body section.

                    After 2 test drives results look promising with no reappearance of the anti-lock light coming on.

                    I'm thinking the front diff is now disengaging properly again - will drive it in 2H for a few days to gain confidence the anti-lock light coming on is resolved and then start cycling to 4H again to confirm its locking up properly and reliably.

                    Still no sign of the 4WD light, fairly certain that switch 3 is poked. Might get adventurous and remove the center console so that I can access it.

                    Comment

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