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  • paul77
    Member
    • Apr 2017
    • 183
    • Sunny Coast

    Super select centre diff lock

    Hi,
    my super select works as it should, just the centre diff lock doesn't seem to engage.
    I had a read in the great article dealing with super select (Pajero flashing light fix) and checked behind the radio to make sure that's all good.
    Mine is a 1997NL. The blue box which is supposed to be the "super select brain" looks fine, all the wires are properly connected and in good condition as far as I can tell. It says ABS on it though. Is it really the SS control unit?
    When I drive in 4h lock or 4L lock the abs lamp comes on after some driving.

    Other than that: it is lifted and has manual hubs. Don't know if that could have anything to do with the issue though.

    My next step would be to try and access the electronic difflock engage sensors and see if they're in good condition.
    How does the diff lock get engaged? Vacuum or electric?
    Has anyone had the same issue?

    How did you fix it?
    We're about to leave for the Oodnadatta track and it would be great to have proper 4wd..
    Thanks

    Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
    Current: 1997 NK Pajero 2.8, 2' lift, ARB bar, warn winch, snorkel, suspension seats...

    Sold:1997 NL Pajero 3.5 SOHC V6
    2" Suspension lift, manual avm hubs, 33" Falken AT, rock sliders, solar panel, roof platform, custom mud guards, awning, snorkel, K&N intake, breathers, dual battery, inverter, various power points with fuse box, custom fridge slide and shelf in back, removable bed platform, legal 5-seater.
  • stumagoo
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2014
    • 2064
    • Perth WA S.O.R

    #2
    NL should be all mechanical - the ecu is there pretty much to control the lights on the dash for a gen 2. the selection of 4x4 is all in the shifter like selecting gears in the gearbox. What makes you think you are not getting a locked centre diff?
    1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
    *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
    1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
    .

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    • paul77
      Member
      • Apr 2017
      • 183
      • Sunny Coast

      #3
      The flashing light and the mechanic saying it doesn't work and I should go to an electrician. I think he might have just seen the light and made the judgment......

      I thought it would be all mechanical. Thanks for clearing that up.

      What's the best way to test if it locks? Do I need to get myself bogged to find out?

      Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
      Current: 1997 NK Pajero 2.8, 2' lift, ARB bar, warn winch, snorkel, suspension seats...

      Sold:1997 NL Pajero 3.5 SOHC V6
      2" Suspension lift, manual avm hubs, 33" Falken AT, rock sliders, solar panel, roof platform, custom mud guards, awning, snorkel, K&N intake, breathers, dual battery, inverter, various power points with fuse box, custom fridge slide and shelf in back, removable bed platform, legal 5-seater.

      Comment

      • Samuel
        Junior Member
        • Feb 2017
        • 14
        • Melbourne

        #4
        The lights on my dash are all over the shop – the rear wheels never light up, the front two are constantly flashing when in 2H, and sometimes everything disappears together. But underneath the car everything is doing what it should be... probably not very helpful though, sorry.

        Comment

        • erad
          Valued Member
          • Mar 2015
          • 5067
          • Cooma NSW

          #5
          Originally posted by Samuel View Post
          The lights on my dash are all over the shop – the rear wheels never light up, the front two are constantly flashing when in 2H, and sometimes everything disappears together. But underneath the car everything is doing what it should be... probably not very helpful though, sorry.
          First thing I would check is the bulbs in the display. They are probably blown.

          Comment

          • Samuel
            Junior Member
            • Feb 2017
            • 14
            • Melbourne

            #6
            The rear wheel lights are almost certainly blown, the others work more often than they don't. My point was though that the lights aren't so necessary.

            Comment

            • cool_dube
              Junior Member
              • Nov 2019
              • 8
              • India

              #7
              Originally posted by paul77 View Post
              When I drive in 4h lock or 4L lock the abs lamp comes on after some driving.
              This is normal behavior - ABS light comes on after driving in 4HLc or 4LLc for some time. Once you are done with your mud-plugging, just restart the car and the ABS light should go off.

              Originally posted by paul77 View Post
              My next step would be to try and access the electronic difflock engage sensors and see if they're in good condition. How does the diff lock get engaged? Vacuum or electric?
              Has anyone had the same issue?
              The center differential is a good-old mechanically locking unit and gets engaged as soon as you slot into 4HLc, irrespective of whatever any light in the world is telling you No vacuum business here! The reason for a blinking orange light is most probably a blown/dirty diff-lock sensor which sits on the top of the gearbox assembly and is not very easy to reach. I have had this issue from day-1 on my 2011 Pajero LWB since I bought it couple of years ago. In fact, I prefer a flashing light over a constant one, so that I am continuously reminded that I am running on a locked C/D and I better unlock it before I reach tarmac
              Last edited by cool_dube; 22-11-19, 03:13 PM.

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