Preparing a PC Challenger manual for the Simpson

[Ent]

Pretty well my thoughts.

The trick to get the "best" tank. Bit of a struggle to get the effective rather than the absolute capacity. Also noted that with the take over by ARB of the plastic long range tank manufacturer we have the typical Mitsubishi blind spot with no option offered. Instead you have a steel option of an auxiliary tank offered at $2,450 with the issue to deal with the standard spare and they offer no solution for the PC model, the PB option is mega expensive for the Kaymar. Apart from the rear mounting position auxiliary tank that requires the spare to go there are no other options in auxiliary tanks.

[old Jack]

Pretty well my thoughts.

The trick to get the "best" tank. Bit of a struggle to get the effective rather than the absolute capacity. Also noted that with the take over by ARB of the plastic long range tank manufacturer we have the typical Mitsubishi blind spot with no option offered. Instead you have a steel option of an auxiliary tank offered at $2,450 with the issue to deal with the standard spare and they offer no solution for the PC model, the PB option is mega expensive for the Kaymar. Apart from the rear mounting position auxiliary tank that requires the spare to go there are no other options in auxiliary tanks.

Maybe not Ent.

If the exhaust could be re-routed then a 2nd factory tank or a plastic tank of similar or greater size may be able to be mounted on the righthand side forward of the rear wheel.

OJ.

[cookie9]

Quality plastic fuel containers do not leak and are very robust, and are not an issue to carry inside the cabin.

Any suggestions on containers? I've had 2 of the "premium" jerrys from SCA both failed with cracked caps. Last one leaked all over the roof and was a real pain in the ass for the trip! Also, my rails have been noisey ever since.

[cookie9]

Maybe not Ent.

If the exhaust could be re-routed then a 2nd factory tank or a plastic tank of similar or greater size may be able to be mounted on the righthand side forward of the rear wheel.

OJ.

I would love this option, even if it was 40L etc..

[old Jack]

Any suggestions on containers? I've had 2 of the "premium" jerrys from SCA both failed with cracked caps. Last one leaked all over the roof and was a real pain in the ass for the trip! Also, my rails have been noisey ever since.

I have Australian made Willow brand in 10 litre size and have not had any issues.
Once my rear seats are removed the additional storage system is bolted into place and is designed around 7 of these 10 litre size fuel containers.

OJ.

[old Jack]

I would love this option, even if it was 40L etc..

I have just started looking into this. For it to be worthwhile it must be at least 60 litres or it is not worth the effort and cash.

OJ.

[Ent]

Hi OJ

I would have assume similar hence lot of looking. Found nothing yet. Having been a cash test dummy on suspension mods rather more cautious this time. I would image issues on filling the tank as it would require some tubing over the drive shaft. Then the ability to pump back into the main tank.

The numbers are in and as expected in Tassie we pay through the neck. Brown Davis fitted $1,699 and Outback Accessories $1,799. Labour is $400 which is fair but full quid plus some some on the tanks themselves.

The fitter in Tassie tried hard to get the effective capacity but both tank manufacturers were delightfully vague. In emails to Outback Accessories they appear pretty stubborn to only quote the absolute capacity.

Advised by the fitter that quality is good from both companies.


I too have never had much luck with jerry cans. All types I have had start of ok but after a summer or two weep and get worst. I use them for my fuel stove and thought the plastic Canadian one ok until yesterday

[RMX]

About the cheapest price I've found for the Brown Davis tank is $1048 (http://www.pxwholesales.com.au/index...rch=challenger)
If you could fit it yourself, I don't think that's too bad.

And even if you can't fit it yourself, I'd reckon $1400 fitted would be reasonable - That is what Brown Davis were charging at the 4x4 show on the weekend.


The outback accessories tank is $1250 (plus freight from Perth) and is 112L.


Neither are cheap, and I'm still thinking the LRA 130L rear tank is going to be the go once a rear tyre carrier is sorted on mine.. But I'd definitely need to work on a GVM upgrade.

[Ent]

Hi All

Brown Davis now $1155 plus freight ($60) 107 litres so $1,215 tank, total $1,523.
Outback Accessory $1247 plus freight ($185) 112 litres so $1,432 tank, total $1,740.

Around 3 1/2 labour at $88 per hour. Given in Tassie we get rather over charged not too bad depending on freight. Local mob with good record fitting my front diff lock and sorting out a few issues so happy to pay the coinage for their time.

Ok which one? Note that the Outback Accessories will not fit with rear aircond but as I do not have that no issue. This might suggest slightly bigger tank? While five litres is not much extra a 50 km walk in the desert does not appeal either. The price pain threshold is long blown so no longer an economic rationalist with a five litre jerry can OJ, but if you can find a sterling silver can might be tempted Actually Outback Accessories has priced themselves out by the looks of it. Decided to ring them direct to actually get to what is the effective capacity. They will ring back. Just wish tank mobs would quote this number.

Noted various peoples comments but has anyone with an Outback Accessory tank actually established its effective capacity? BD is around 100 effective capacity as best I can find on this forum. No response on ARB's plans for plastic tank but given my serve to them over being Toyota only accessory supplier rather not expecting a reply. Besides looking at getting a sticker made up "Non ARB Equipped so still running"

But OJ like you idea so let me know if you come up with anything as was planning 140 litres on board so need extra.

Checked out a few tow bar mounted spare tyre holders and all crashed an burned on the 38mm depth of the rectangle tube. Minimum was 65mm with one and another 130mm. Noted people that actually read manuals point out roof loading is 80 kilograms so spare could go on roof along with bit of fuel but that involves a roof basket or platform.

Then the GVM number crunching starts along with a running campaign.

[whereswes]

Hey Ent,

Catching up on your threads re the LRT.

As per earlier post the BD tank doesn't impact on departure angle and ground clearance only suffers by about 5mm or so. Downside is your ramp over angle is impacted due to the extra length forward and you now have no stone guard. That said, I'm thinking the 2mm tank thickness could be possibly up to twice that of the OEM tank.

One hard knock in the Vic high country only left a tiny dent but the border track a couple of months ago sand blasted all the coating of the leading face.

From memory, July last year the tank was $1,150 supply only + $350 labor through TJM. It's a solid 3 hour or more job given that:
1. the rear seat needs to come out to access (?) the top of the fuel sender - don't quote me on that and;
2. working around the rear drive shaft is a PITA and probably quicker to drop and refit.

"Interested in the long range tank. Bit worried by earlier reports of mounting points breaking".

BD learnt their lesson from the first design (there's a thread that covers the poor design of their first release sometime ago). Could be wrong but I seem to recall flex in the chassis was weakening the mounts. They've since fitted doubler plates on all mounting points to address the issue and haven't seen any posts since the upgrade of cracked mounts.

In a nut shell, if you're doing a lot of desert or beach work and happen to hit a high spot, this tank will just slide over in much the same way that your bash plates will. If your gunning it through rutted mountain tracks with exposed sharp rocks, you might find yourself in trouble given your decreased ramp over angles and a tube of tank repair putty should be kept within easy reach.

Cheers
Wes

[Axis]

Any suggestions on containers? I've had 2 of the "premium" jerrys from SCA both failed with cracked caps. Last one leaked all over the roof and was a real pain in the ass for the trip! Also, my rails have been noisey ever since.

Cookie,

Were these the Pro-Quip ones? There was a recall on the caps splitting. Happened to us last year with diesel leaking on the roof. I threw one out before I found out about the recall. No issues once I had the new caps. http://www.proquip.com.au/ProductPag...llMay2015.html

Ent, After 20k kms with a 2nd spare and up to 40L of Diesel on the roof of the Paj we have creaky rails like cookie. I'd be doing everything I could to avoid additional roof load over long periods.

Some good advice being given.

Cheers,
James

[Ent]

Hi Axis and others

Agree good advice. Looks like Brown Davis is the go. If in WA likely the other way around but just too much extra coin for the Outback Accessory. Though in a phone call from them they appear to be a good mob.

Roof loading is a concern. Idea is four Maxi tracks plus shovel and dirty stuff. But if can not work out solution for second spare and extra fuel (140 litres target) then spare and forty liters on the roof added in will push the maximum loading plus would need platform/basket so that is even more weight up top. The Challenger's roof rails not the strongest thing around.

I like the idea of the long flat tanks on Fleabayhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20L-Jerry-Can-Fuel-Container-Heavy-Duty-Spare-Petrol-Container-/252509523193 but notice they are sold under an array of names and prices so could be just junk sold as something special. Not diesel colour either. But might work without needing roof platform and keep air drag down.

Cheers

[old Jack]

Cross rail flexing is the biggest killer of the factory rails when a basket or pod are fitted, this is why I choose a platform that directly clamps to the roof rails, they reduce the point loads and flexing, and are very light as they do not need cross bars. Your 80 kg loading is maximum and that includes the weight of the rack, but it is only for on road and not off-road. My self imposed limit is 65kgs including the weight of my small rack which is 12 kg. I consider this the maximum and I have had no problems in my travels even on the Tanami, GRR, Cape Leveque and Kalumburu Roads.

OJ.

[Ent]

Hi OJ

Makes sense as a well constructed platform would act in a structural way strengthening the roof supports from cross diagonal forces bity like cross bracing on studs. But I have noticed the that rails are not exactly parallel which does not worry roof racks but might a platform design.

Ok which ones do the best job OJ as dumping the racks eliminates weight and yet another failure point plus all things being equal lowers the load height. Picture please

Not against working on sixty kilogram load limit depending what the spare weighs and four Maxitraxs, plus shovel, the difference is fuel. Ideally forty litres but twenty might do the trick given two utes to beg or borrow space in. Though I do want a setup to be independent as main fellow "explorer" drives Suzuki Grand Vatara, and if we though we had issues with GVM they are nothing compared to his.

Cheers

[whynot]

Rhino platform rack has the slats running longitudinally to the vehicle, mounting kit has 2 cross rails and 4 feet. The rack has a bit of flexibility in front of the forward mounting points if you follow their instructions. I moved the clamps closer to the front of the factory rails.

Frontrunner platform rack has the slats running across the vehicle, possibly better weight distribution? Just an observation without any experience.