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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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Old 2 Weeks Ago
Luckyme Luckyme is offline
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Williamtown
Posts: 6
Default 1999 NL 3.5 running problem

Hey collective brains,

Have a problem.
Will start and drive for 10 km then engine starts to drop out, first with a single stutter then progressive rev drop until off.
Coast to side of road and will start splutter and die.
Let sit for 10min, starts all good then rinse repeat.
Any ideas?
Read it could be fuel filter,pump or immobilizer.
Or any number of things.
Any information would be great.
1999 NL Exceed, 3.5, Blue, Bully, Snorkel, light bar.3 1/4 roof rack.
Soon, tyres, UHF.lift?
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Old 2 Weeks Ago
tomwithannl's Avatar
tomwithannl tomwithannl is offline
Valued Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Maria Coast Tasmania.
Posts: 481

I'll start
Should not be immobiliser as usually if they fault they will give a no start situation.
Very typical of a fuel blockage so I would be changing the fuel filter as a first fix.
Could be a weak fuel pump or the "sock" filter on the pump.
Could be a fault in the tank breather system, possibly a blocked carbon canister or crimped pipe not allowing tank to breath. Try running without your fuel cap and see if this cures it.
Check the plastic duct from the air cleaner box to throttle body for a loose part from the baffles floating and blocking the inlet. Check the air filter while you are at it.
Could also be a heat effected crank sensor, but leave that till last
Good luck
1998 NL GLS 3.5 Auto with Lux & safety Pac. Bocar alloy bar with 13000lb I-Max winch & engine watchdog.

1953 Morris Minor ute
1990 Nissan Scargo van
2008 Mercedes e280 CDI sport
2003 Ford Transit
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Old 2 Weeks Ago
nj swb's Avatar
nj swb nj swb is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 5,567

I would start with pulling the pump from the fuel tank and having a look inside. Sounds like crud in your tank getting sucked against the filter and starving flow, then it slowly drops away after you stop (probably as the suction holding it in place slowly bleeds off).

Even if that's not the cause, you'll know what the inside of your tank looks like.
NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

Scorpro Explorer Box
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Old 1 Week Ago
Luckyme Luckyme is offline
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Williamtown
Posts: 6

Well update on the car.
First off the mechanics thought it was oil from the slightly leaking rocker cover effecting the spark, so new plugs and seals.
Problem still there, cam sensor?
After pulling the front off, T belt was stretched and pulley was shot, sensor was shot.
So new T kit with all pulley, water pump etc.
Fingers crossed it's good for a while after all this.
1999 NL Exceed, 3.5, Blue, Bully, Snorkel, light bar.3 1/4 roof rack.
Soon, tyres, UHF.lift?
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Old 1 Week Ago
erad erad is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Cooma NSW
Posts: 2,523

Sorry, but I cannot see the timing belt and associated stuff around it affecting the car the way you reported it. With a timing belt issue, the car will either run or not. Same with immobiliser. To me it sounds like the fuel pressure is gradually dying off and you are starving for fuel. Replacing all the timing belt stuff was probably necessary, but that will not fix your problem.

The fuel pump has a pre-filter sock on the base of the pump. In my wife's TF Magna, this sock became full of hard red mud. It eventually blocked the fuel flow sufficiently that the engine would not run. It ran perfectly on gas though. The red mud was as solid as a brick. It took at least 5 times to get it clean - bash it to break up the brick, flush it, bash it, flush it.... I then replaced the main fuel filter because it no doubt was full of crud as well, especially the stuff I had loosened up by the bashing, At the same time I had the injectors removed and professionally cleaned by a local garage. The car was totally different after that. Strangely, I never had any issues with my NL Pajero fuel pump, other than the fact that it fell off after the gas fitted had buggered up its mounting.

The problem could be a HT coil, but this should only affect 2 cylinders, not the whole engine.
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Old 1 Week Ago
brw0513 brw0513 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 156

I agree with the others here that this seems fuel supply related. Air + fuel + compression + spark equals a sweet running engine. One of these things must be the problem.

It seems to happen often unfortunately, but I don't like hearing stories of mechanics fumbling around with expensive nonsense.

The rocker covers on our beautiful 6G74 engines are designed to leak over time and all over the alternator. I think the rocker cover designers were drunk on sake on the Friday afternoon think tank session.

I've heard stories of "stretched timing belts" before. But I've never been convinced these timing belts can stretch. I could accept a "worn" argument , but "stretched" just doesn't sit well in my mind.

Did you try the suggestion of running the car without the fuel cap in place?

My suggestions are to take advice from members here who pass your credibility test. Then buy a workshop manual and read it like a novel. Don't do anything to the car until you comprehend and understand what is in the manual and associated risks (i.e. raw fuel in your case). But once you reach that point, then just start work methodically. The type of problem you are having will be well within your capability to find and fix. Passion and care will go a long way.

Once you find your problem, then post here about how you fixed it for the benefit of all.
Ian B
1998 NL SWB 6G74 Manual
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Old 6 Days Ago
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Wollongong
Posts: 427

I agree with Erad that timing belt wouldn't cause the issue you had. Timing belt is either fine or not, engine issues won't come and go with it. It could be cam sensor and being affected by the heat, but seeing you don't need to stop that long I'm doubting that is causing the original issue. These things all may well be stuffed, but just means your original issue will likely still be there once they're fixed.
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