Did my valve clearances today.

[Techedz]

That is a very long time between tappet adjustments (compared to the MMAL 30k intervals) - when was the last one done? I see you are already onto the issue where some mechanics don't enter all the pipe removals into the book.

It will be interesting to see how far out they are - if you can post the "before" gap measurements I'm sure a lot of people will be interested.

I'll make a list of the before and after measurements as it will be interesting to see what they are.

I just re-read the service history as the workshop was kind enough to send me all the service records for the car. When I rang them about getting the records, they said they did the services by the MM service book but the only mention of using a 'valve adjustment seal kit' was at 90,000 km, nothing before or after that. I'm pretty sure if they had done them the owner would have been charged for them so it will be interesting to see what they are after 145,000 km.

[Moke]

Any know how to view the images?

I use this. Works a treat. This is for Chrome only though, I believe there is a Firefox version as well.
Dean

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en

[Larppanen]

Adjusted valve clearances 400 km's ago and also cleaned up intake manifold. 208000 km on the clock when I started. Now runs very smooth even with cold engine. Intake manifold was not so dirty as I expected, maybe 5 mm of dirt max. Soaked over night in oven cleaning foam and one more bottle over it in the morning and then washed it with pressure water and only couple places needed steel brush. It was pretty easy job after all.

Both intake valves at 1st piston were so tight I could not fit even 0,03 mm gauge between, other intakes were a bit loose and only two exhaust valves a bit loose. Adjusted so I could feel a bit friction with 0,10 intake and 0,15 exhaust gauge.

Did not have any suitable torque wrench near by, so tightened all by hand and feeling. Not my first time though, so I'm not worried about over or under tightening. Maybe next time I'll have torque wrench ready.

I did only have new rocker cover gasket, so I only replaced that. It seems that there might be some oil leakage coming from injectors 3 and 4 gaskets, where electrical connectors are attached. Not pouring out, just a bit wet looking close to gaskets.

I now have all necessary seals available, so my question is that is it possible to replace those seals without removing rocker cover?

[Scooby]

Just a tip for checking valve clearances.
Use a dial indicator on a magnetic base, that way you can see the measurement before and after.
Possibly a bit of a problem on an alloy head. You could also remove the mag base and make up an adapter to fit the valve cover bolt hole.
It takes the feel issue out of checking with feeler gauges.

[Brivo]

Valve Clearances

Thanks for pictures and advice.
Just rolled over 135,500 Klms in my NW Pajero and as the last time the valve clearances had been adjusted was at 30,000 klms by the dealer, I decided that it was time to adjust them again.
Even with the correct tools it took me close to 6 hours.
What amazed me was that half of the clearances were correct while the most any was loose was .02mm.
I could not notice any improvement in performance or noise.
The rocker cover inside and valve gear were perfectly clean. There was a small amount of build up iside the inlet manifold.
I change the oil every 15,000 klms but have always have used synthetic oil .
A Provent has been fitted and EGR block.
As I see it, I will not adjust the valves for another 100,000 klms .

[Mike1960]

30,000km intervals valve clearances

I think it is excessive to do the valve clearances every 30,000km. I have found with my NT DID every 60,000km is fine. Bear in mind that your Mitsubishi Dealerships may only do audible assessments at logbook services.

I think this is terrible as how can they hear if a valve is too tight? I imagine you still get charged for the complete job.

Sadly I have to do my own work as I cannot find a mechanic I can trust in the Newcastle area of NSW I would be pleased to hear of one in the Newcastle/Maitland area if anyone knows of a good mechanic.
Cheers

Mike

[Mike1960]

Not a huge issue

I don’t think you have to worry as much about this issue as some owners are.

I am a licensed diesel mechanic and my thoughts are get them done at 30,000km the every 90-100,000 km after that. They should be fine.

[pharb]

I don’t think you have to worry as much about this issue as some owners are.

I am a licensed diesel mechanic and my thoughts are get them done at 30,000km the every 90-100,000 km after that. They should be fine.

Agree.

My ex police Paj had clocked up 50,000km in 12 months, and had a "good" service history from the local non Mits garage where the car was stationed in far west Vic. No record of injector pipes being removed, or any other record suggesting valve clearances had been checked.

At 100,000km I checked valve clearances and pulled manifold to see how carbonned up it was.

Two exhasut valves were 1 thou tighter than they should of been. All others were spot on.

[Techedz]

That is a very long time between tappet adjustments (compared to the MMAL 30k intervals) - when was the last one done? I see you are already onto the issue where some mechanics don't enter all the pipe removals into the book.

It will be interesting to see how far out they are - if you can post the "before" gap measurements I'm sure a lot of people will be interested.

3 of my rockers were loose, one was tight. from reading on here, they should be done every 50k kms. Mine don't show that, but who knows if extra services were done as I just have the service records to go buy, no info from the PO who did a lot of miles. After the service, my fuel economy has improved 1/2 to 1 l/100 around town and 1.5 l/100 on the open road. My last road trip a month ago saw 8.6 l/100 for a 2300 km trip from Canberra to Maclean and back with a small load and 2 people. Previous average for this was 10 L/100. Around town I'm seeing 10.5 to 11.

[Techedz]

I did only have new rocker cover gasket, so I only replaced that. It seems that there might be some oil leakage coming from injectors 3 and 4 gaskets, where electrical connectors are attached. Not pouring out, just a bit wet looking close to gaskets.

I now have all necessary seals available, so my question is that is it possible to replace those seals without removing rocker cover?

I made the mistake of lubing my seals with vaseline to push them in and when I fitted the rocker cover they all popped out. I then pushed them all gently in using a large socket and an old seal so that I didn't bottom out on the connector and break it.

So yes, you can replace them afterwards, you just need to pry them out with a a smal pic and push/tap the new ones in carefully. The vaseline did make them easy to get in.

I bought one of these great '30x Car Trim Removal Tool Auto Hand Tools Pry Bar Dash Panel Door Interior Kit' on ebay which has lots of tools such as trm removal tools and pics for $28 on fleebay.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Put them in clean and dry, with some supaglue for lube only.

[jon_m]

My tips. Turn car over using alternator nut, turning that clockwise will turn crank clockwise but cams will be opposite. Take it slow.
Take air box out if ur small like me. Can sit in car and makes it easier.
Look for protrusions to identify TDC.
Go through sockets make it much easier for lock nuts just don’t over tighten. 10nm
Crank needs turned 360 for next bank

RE: "Go through socket"

Looking to the clearances again (providing the supply chain will enable some new injector lines), and this time around like to have (just one if possible) 'go through socket'.

Would appreciate if anyone can help with size needed?

I checked the manual but it only mentions the special tool number

Thanks

[JustanotherPJ]

If you mean tighten and torque injector pipes, it's a 17mm flare nut socket.

Got mine off ebay for under 17 dollars delivered, worked a treat with the torque wrench ..see photo..

[Kingbrown]

A through socket for adjusting tappets allows you to have a screwdriver poke through the centre of the socket (to hold the adjusting screw) while at the same time being able to tighten the socket via external facets.
Most sockets are circular on their outside but imagine a spark plug socket that has an external hex at the drive end.

[Kingbrown]

If you mean tighten and torque injector pipes, it's a 17mm flare nut socket.

Got mine off ebay for under 17 dollars delivered, worked a treat with the torque wrench ..see photo..

I'd be careful with some that are on eBay.
Poor quality ones will open up around the flare nut and round off the corners of the nut, even at the low torque that's required on injector pipes.