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  • Redtag
    Member
    • Aug 2015
    • 100
    • Adelaide

    Transmission stuck in N D

    Hi folks,
    I installed a Auto-Mate this weekend. Amongst other things I had to remove the transmission selection lever knob. I noticed when I took the knob off there was a very thin black spindle coming out of the middle of the lever. Reassembling, I noticed the spindle had gone and now I can't only shift between N and D. I'm not sure what has happened here - has the spindle broken off (possible, as I was wrestling a bunch of bits and pieces around the front seats) or has it been pushed down into the guts of the lever and I have to release it in someway??
    Help would be appreciated!!
    Redtag
    Charcoal PB auto, 2012. Pretty bog standard at the moment - nudge bar and IPF HID driving lights (bodgy retrofit by previous owner!), factory rear difflockt, Bushkins for intercooler and front diff, Toyo OPAT 265/65/R17 LT, profile bars and Oztrail awning, Ultragauge Blue, EGR plug n'play, Automate and paddles.
  • Redtag
    Member
    • Aug 2015
    • 100
    • Adelaide

    #2
    Found it!

    OK, a fine tooth comb search uncovered a short piece of thin black rod. It's the top end of the spindle that USED to run inside my gear stick, I must have broken it off while I was wrestling with the transmission tunnel cover.
    For the record, this rod is made of PLASTIC and obviously quite fragile when a klutz like me is wielding tools and trim!
    So, with the piece re-installed I can now get all gears. I'm somewhat apprehensive that the broken bit is going to get jammed somehow, although it seems like there is not much room for the broken bit to wiggle around and get stuck. It seems to be captive in the gear stick and in a tube in the knob.
    Anyone know how to replace this vital little bit of the world's most brittle plastic???
    On the bright side, the Auto-Mate works very well now I can get all my gears, straight out of the box it is great!

    Redtag
    Charcoal PB auto, 2012. Pretty bog standard at the moment - nudge bar and IPF HID driving lights (bodgy retrofit by previous owner!), factory rear difflockt, Bushkins for intercooler and front diff, Toyo OPAT 265/65/R17 LT, profile bars and Oztrail awning, Ultragauge Blue, EGR plug n'play, Automate and paddles.

    Comment

    • old Jack
      Regular
      • Jun 2011
      • 11621
      • Adelaide, South Australia.

      #3
      Hi Redtag,
      The plastic rod is a loose part and you should remove it when you take the gear knob off so it doesn’t get broken. If it is broken then you would not be able to shift the selector.

      OJ.
      2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
      MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

      Comment

      • Dicko1
        Valued Member
        • Dec 2014
        • 7640
        • Cairns, FNQ

        #4
        Has happened to a few of us. Here is a link that will get you sorted.










        Dicko. FNQ

        2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

        TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

        Comment

        • Dicko1
          Valued Member
          • Dec 2014
          • 7640
          • Cairns, FNQ

          #5
          Originally posted by old Jack View Post
          Hi Redtag,
          The plastic rod is a loose part and you should remove it when you take the gear knob off so it doesn’t get broken. If it is broken then you would not be able to shift the selector.

          OJ.



          Rod is not a loose part Jack. Its part of a lot bigger assembly. A properly designed assembly would have seen it manufactured as a separate part.
          Dicko. FNQ

          2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

          TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

          Comment

          • aussieintas
            Valued Member
            • Feb 2013
            • 2191
            • Sorell, Tasmania

            #6
            Is this what you're talking about Redtag. Item listed as 24081 in first pic. Anyway this is from Partsouq.com if it helps.
            Attached Files
            2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

            Previously
            88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
            92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
            92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
            99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
            95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
            08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

            Comment

            • Redtag
              Member
              • Aug 2015
              • 100
              • Adelaide

              #7
              Is this what you're talking about Redtag. Item listed as 24081 in first pic. Anyway this is from Partsouq.com if it helps.[/QUOTE]


              No, the part I broke is the very thin push rod, numbered 24951. It broke off at the height of the metal rod
              Once I found the bit that broke off I slipped it back into the tube, 24081, and reassembled the whole thing and went for a drive.
              All works well but I'm concerned that the short part of the rod might get stuck when I'm shifting from D through to R or P, or even into sports mode. The short bit doesn't have much room to move though, so it may be OK until I get it fixed.

              Thanks for the diagram, it will be handy to tell the parts dept what I'm after.

              Redtag
              Charcoal PB auto, 2012. Pretty bog standard at the moment - nudge bar and IPF HID driving lights (bodgy retrofit by previous owner!), factory rear difflockt, Bushkins for intercooler and front diff, Toyo OPAT 265/65/R17 LT, profile bars and Oztrail awning, Ultragauge Blue, EGR plug n'play, Automate and paddles.

              Comment

              • Redtag
                Member
                • Aug 2015
                • 100
                • Adelaide

                #8
                Rod is not a loose part Jack. Its part of a lot bigger assembly. A properly designed assembly would have seen it manufactured as a separate part.[/QUOTE]

                The links posted here seem to suggest that it should be possible to just pull the remains of the rod out of the gearstick. Going by what you say Dicko1 it's not possible to just pull the rod out of the gearstick? is it attached at the bottom?

                Redtag
                Charcoal PB auto, 2012. Pretty bog standard at the moment - nudge bar and IPF HID driving lights (bodgy retrofit by previous owner!), factory rear difflockt, Bushkins for intercooler and front diff, Toyo OPAT 265/65/R17 LT, profile bars and Oztrail awning, Ultragauge Blue, EGR plug n'play, Automate and paddles.

                Comment

                • Redtag
                  Member
                  • Aug 2015
                  • 100
                  • Adelaide

                  #9
                  The plastic rod is a loose part and you should remove it when you take the gear knob off so it doesn’t get broken. If it is broken then you would not be able to shift the selector.

                  Hi OJ, no, it's not the sleeve that I broke, it's the very thin push rod that fits into the sleeve and runs down through the centre of the gearstick. When I started work the thin rod was poking out of the gearstick by a few cm. When I went to re-assemble the unit I noticed the bit poking out had gone. I found the broken-off bit after a long search, stock it into the sleeve and reassembled the whole unit. I can now get all my gears but I'm worried about it's safety.

                  I've seen some repairs using metal rod, but how can the bit inside the gearstick be removed?? Absolutely none of it is poking out of the gearstick. Lever it out with a needle or a pin???

                  Redtag
                  Charcoal PB auto, 2012. Pretty bog standard at the moment - nudge bar and IPF HID driving lights (bodgy retrofit by previous owner!), factory rear difflockt, Bushkins for intercooler and front diff, Toyo OPAT 265/65/R17 LT, profile bars and Oztrail awning, Ultragauge Blue, EGR plug n'play, Automate and paddles.

                  Comment

                  • old Jack
                    Regular
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 11621
                    • Adelaide, South Australia.

                    #10
                    Hi Redtag,

                    Reading many posts on the forum indicate you are not the first person to break off the inner plastic rod plunger. Mixed reports about how to remove and repair so this could be because there have been multiple suppliers of this part to Mitsubishi.

                    Current part number is 2400A421, this is for the complete assembly and it is not cheap! $320 online from Partsque so expect $600+ from a dealer spare parts!

                    You maybe able to remove the complete assembly, disassemble and remove the broken plunger. You may be able to make another plunge if it is just a straight piece of rod, like others have done with their selectors.

                    Eddy Wreckers in Adelaide have 2 Challengers in their yard and from memory at least one is an auto so give them a call. This part was also fitted to Tritons so this increases the options when looking for a replacement.

                    Where are you located in Adelaide?

                    OJ.
                    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                    Comment

                    • Dicko1
                      Valued Member
                      • Dec 2014
                      • 7640
                      • Cairns, FNQ

                      #11
                      There is no need to remove the insert. It is very secure in the gear knob housing. It is only a housing/wear sleeve that should never need replacing. I used the brass rod and have been for 3 years , as a replacement for the short section of thin plastic that broke, with no ill effects. I took it out about 3-4 months ago, when I installed the torque lock up kit, and there is absolutely no wear and as I said performs exactly the same as if the rod had not been broken at ll. Do not stress yourself out too much and overthink the situation. Plenty of others have broken the thin rod and after manufacturing a simple replacement have carried on driving ......no problems. I know someone used a bit of suitably sized knitting needles.

                      Dicko. FNQ

                      2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

                      TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

                      Comment

                      • old Jack
                        Regular
                        • Jun 2011
                        • 11621
                        • Adelaide, South Australia.

                        #12
                        Good advice from Dicko, and others have found the same thing, that a 2 piece plunger continues to work.

                        OJ.
                        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                        Comment

                        • Redtag
                          Member
                          • Aug 2015
                          • 100
                          • Adelaide

                          #13
                          Reading many posts on the forum indicate you are not the first person to break off the inner plastic rod plunger. Mixed reports about how to remove and repair so this could be because there have been multiple suppliers of this part to Mitsubishi.

                          Current part number is 2400A421, this is for the complete assembly and it is not cheap! $320 online from Partsque so expect $600+ from a dealer spare parts!

                          You maybe able to remove the complete assembly, disassemble and remove the broken plunger. You may be able to make another plunge if it is just a straight piece of rod, like others have done with their selectors.

                          Eddy Wreckers in Adelaide have 2 Challengers in their yard and from memory at least one is an auto so give them a call. This part was also fitted to Tritons so this increases the options when looking for a replacement.

                          Where are you located in Adelaide?

                          Hi OJ,
                          I'm at Coromandel Valley and have a call in with Eddy Wreckers. It seems like the whole shifter assembly is required!
                          A word to others out there, if you have to remove the gear knob to get the front console out, remove the console very carefully then re-install the knob to protect both the sleeve and the exposed push rod!!!

                          Thanks for your help everyone
                          Charcoal PB auto, 2012. Pretty bog standard at the moment - nudge bar and IPF HID driving lights (bodgy retrofit by previous owner!), factory rear difflockt, Bushkins for intercooler and front diff, Toyo OPAT 265/65/R17 LT, profile bars and Oztrail awning, Ultragauge Blue, EGR plug n'play, Automate and paddles.

                          Comment

                          • MartinDanger
                            Member
                            • Aug 2020
                            • 141
                            • Margaret River

                            #14
                            One more bit of info.

                            That plastic rod can be stopped from moving if you over-tighten the 2 screws that hold the gear selector knob in place on the shaft.

                            Comment

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