What advantages are there in driving 2WD, personally I think 4WD gives you more control which you probably cant feel until things go wrong, I have had mine in 4WD since new but wonder if I am doing any long term damage by not using 2WD on the highway.
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2WD versus 4WD
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4H is fine to use all the time – on dirt and bitumen. I’ve used 4H on the road for a few years now and haven’t seen any noticeable extra tyre wear or fuel consumption. It is much safer and many vehicles these days are locked into that mode anyway – ie. you just can’t select 2-wheel drive.
4HLC is a different matter, of course – that’s for dirt and off road only.
Cheers
Geoff03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.
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Originally posted by GHendo View Postmany vehicles these days are locked into that mode anyway2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.
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Hi Sparky,
I had an NP GLS and had it in 4wd for most of it's 300,000km with no issues. Occasionally switched to 2wd but 99% of its life was in 4wd on bitumen and occasional off-road without any mechanical problems. Feels more secure on the road especially when towing so just leave it in 4wd.
Cheers
Glenno
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I've always tended towards 4WD both in the NM and now the NT, on and off the bitumen. But usually every few weeks I give it some workouts of changing between 2WD/4WD, in the hope it will keep the change mechanism(s) from forgetting how they should work.2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.
Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.
My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.
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Hey,
Funny difference with me, run on 2 on road always, traction control and all that to do it's thing if it gets slippy. 4h and any of the other options only when needed off-road. Thinking cv joints, diff wear, more strain on engine driving all four etc.
Happy to be told differently
BrentonMY2017 Exceed, Ironman 9500 winch, GME UHF, BOO's Bash Plates, Ironman Light Bar, Ironman premium Bullbar, Redarc tow pro, dual battery system with Ironman 40A dc to dc charger
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there is potential for more wear on your front diff and CV's but I personally believe that is so minor that no one would ever really notice it on a regular vehicle. other than that its more to do with maximising fuel economy and tire wear..... and again that will likely be in the area of <$10 a week as far as I am concerned..... that said my NL still lives in 2wd on the bitumen1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
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The problem with 2H and the traction control is the computer cutting power at the point where you need to “go” even if that means spinning the wheels for a bit. A couple of forumites at least can tell the tale of pulling out into oncoming traffic only to have power cut at the worst time because of being in 2H.
As for CV wear they’re turning all the time anyway. I also can’t see how there would be any more strain on the engine in 4H over 2H. You’re still trying to move the same mass. If anything I’d say there is more strain on the driveline in 2H given all drive has to go through two rather than four wheels.NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS
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I always had my Paj in 2wd unless on slippery surfaces. Used to get a slight drone when in 4H on bitumen.
The Cruiser is permanent 4WD and no issues with that at all.Cheers, John.
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MY12 LC200 GXL 4.5Lt V8 twin turbo, GVM upgrade, ARB bar, Warn winch, Outback Acc rear bar and dual carrier, TJM sidesteps, Bushskinz, Long Ranger 180Lt tank, Black Widow drawers, cargo barrier, Polaris Awning, +++
Ex - NM auto, 2"Kings, Bilsteins, Buckshots, Wildcat headers, 2.75" Mandrel bent exhaust, Injected LPG, Smartbar, Scraper bar, Bushskinz, Custom steps, Dual Batteries, Breathers, Black Widow drawers, Polaris Awning.
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Originally posted by Pajshomoneroguntero View PostThe problem with 2H and the traction control is the computer cutting power at the point where you need to “go” even if that means spinning the wheels for a bit. A couple of forumites at least can tell the tale of pulling out into oncoming traffic only to have power cut at the worst time because of being in 2H.
As for CV wear they’re turning all the time anyway. I also can’t see how there would be any more strain on the engine in 4H over 2H. You’re still trying to move the same mass. If anything I’d say there is more strain on the driveline in 2H given all drive has to go through two rather than four wheels.
CV's are being over driven when in 2wd.... so the wear is on the opposite surface to that which is being loaded when the engine is driving.... if that makes sense..... but as I said I believe that even that argument is academic and that real world practical results will be marginally different between one and the other option1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
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Always leave mine in 4wd and personally can't see the point of having a 2wd option in a vehicle that's designed to be able to run in 4wd all the time. Constant 4wd's been around since at least the first Range Rovers and Jensen FF even earlier and they along with the Paj get better traction all the time in 4wd
When I see fuel consumption figures in this forum they are never better than what I get although I'm not sure which figures relate to 2wd drivers and which to 4wd.
In the end it's personal choice I guess but check the card in the sunvisor before you tow. It states that you should be in 4wd when towing and from my brother's personal experience at least, towing in 2wd wears the rear tyres out quite quickly. He went through a set of rear tyres towing a 2300kg van from Brisbane to Darwin and back in a manual NP Exceed some years ago. Had load levellers but no airbags or suspension mods.
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2H unless have to use the wipers then into 4H (also on gravel) ... offroad/ beach 4HLc .. 4LLc on soft sand and steep terrain ... and if all else fails 4LLc with diff locker ...
Still a learning curve ...
...2012 PB Challenger LS (Manual) Safari Snorkel, OZtec shocks front & rear with King Springs (lift 2 inch) , 22 inch light bar on ECB Nudge bar, roof racks & basket, Bridgestone Duelers 697 LT A/T (116S), Uniden Dash cam, Oricom 2 way radio 80 channel, Ipod connected via glove box usb, Waeco cf50, Garmin gps (with topo), Opticoat + paint protection, Nilrust proofing, Roosystems Ecu Remap
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4H for us most of the time. Every couple of weeks I cycle through the modes.
I don't notice any difference in economy between 2H and 4H.07 NS DiD GLX Manual, Alloy Bullbar, 2" lift, Bilstein shocks, King Springs, Kumho MT51, Oricom UHF088, Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard, Boo's Sump and Tansmission Bash Plates
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