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Brake controller install - any tips?

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  • rshaules
    Junior Member
    • Nov 2017
    • 4
    • Tasmania

    Brake controller install - any tips?

    Hi everyone,
    Hope you're all well.
    Just wondering- anyone with experience installing a brake controller on a NH Pajero? I've got a 1991 GLX that is set up to tow but doesn't have a brake controller to tow something with electric brakes.
    I was quoted by a local shop for $600 parts and labour for a controller, but that sounded expensive to me (wasn't REDARC).
    Any tips or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!
    -Richard
  • arrow
    Valued Member
    • Nov 2007
    • 628

    #2
    I’ve installed two of different brands and it was quite easy following the instructions.
    Just a matter of correctly identifying the relevant wires and running a few cables.
    Most difficult part was deciding where to mount them so they were In view AND readily accessible from the driver’s seat.
    Both were done on an NL.

    Comment

    • Jasonmc73
      Valued Member
      • Jun 2019
      • 2692
      • Brisbane

      #3
      Yeah fitted one about a month ago is A NX.

      If your vehicle isn't Canbus/ drive by wire ASC control etc its quite easy, which age of vehicle doubt it is.

      If it is Canbus, Redarc suggest the use of diode in brake light wire (i don't think you need this) of vehicle if not fitting with their harness they sell for $200.00

      The little black box can go any direction, but needs to stay still basically as it is a proportional controller senses direction.

      What i have done & will it work jury is still out , my black box is fitted in front of centre console drivers side with velcro. The velcro is Araldited to the car rubber sound deadening it will not move, the velcro is quite solid onto back of black box.

      It's not it's first velcro fitment but for this little black box 1st time in this position in this vehicle, so we shall see
      Last time it was velcro to vinyl floor under passenger seat & just stuck to floor velcro wasn't araldited to the floor.

      Redarc do sell a multifit bracket $20 + postage

      I have run 6mm2 wire as per instruction which i didn't last time i had it fitted as i'm only running one axle brakes & it worked.
      But man what a difference following the instructions properly has made

      Trailer brakes do work far more power at the trailer with 6mm2 wire, had to turn them down a fair way.

      I used a circuit breaker under bonnet 80amp & all my wires run to that including the power feed for this, but this wire runs to the hot side of circuit braker & has its own re-set breaker 30 amp
      Only reason i have done this is so I have ONE wire running to my battery for everything & pick up the power at the breaker, in lieu of spaghetti at the battery terminal.
      It is earthed to body, actually to the tranny ECU bracket bolt in front of passengers feet, good clean bolt, anodised bracket, fine earth it seems to be so far.

      So after all that just follow the instructions & it will work just fine!
      Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

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      • stumagoo
        Valued Member
        • Jun 2014
        • 2064
        • Perth WA S.O.R

        #4
        its not too hard but a system and install is likely to be 500+ as you have learnt---- if you take 150 for the controller and wiring and then allow 2-3 hours at 100+ an hour and then GST on top $500 is easy to spend
        1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
        *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
        1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
        .

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        • erad
          Valued Member
          • Mar 2015
          • 5067
          • Cooma NSW

          #5
          On my NL, I simply found the brake light switch wire and a constant 12 V source of power and wired them to the controller via a plug ans socket. I then mounted the controller onto a small piece of timber (Painted black to match the rest of the car) and just sat it in the depression on the right side of the gear lever. Even of fearful corrugations, it never moved from there. I ran a power cable under the carpet beside the console, and finally got it through to the rear of the car. I cannot remember how I got it outside to the trailer socket, but it wasn't very hard to do. There was an earth wire also coming from the controller and I earthed it somewhere under the dashboard. Alltold, it probably took me less that 2 hours, but I was a lot younger and more supple than I am now.... It wasn't very hard to do. Use a fairly heavy cable for the power to and from the controller, or you may get too much voltage drop by the time it all gets to the brake shoes.

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          • Scrambler
            Senior Member
            • Jul 2018
            • 288
            • Toowoomba, Qld

            #6
            I set one up a while back for easy temporary installation. You do need a high capacity 12v input as already mentioned. Mine was for a Defender with the battery under the passenger seat but I subsequently modified for a Pajero and ran the power from a 50amp plug. It's a minor nuisance to setup but saves the crawling around under the car. And easy to move to a new vehicle.
            =-( Sadly bought back: 99 NL Shortie. In a-peeling blue
            =-) Happily replaced by: 98 NL LWB Diesel

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