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Off-Road downhill braking

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  • Crash76
    Junior Member
    • May 2015
    • 20
    • Warranwood

    Off-Road downhill braking

    Wondering if there is an option to help with downhill braking when off-road? I find Low 1 is still too fast!!! I'm talking the really steep hills, such as Billy Goats up in the high country if anyone knows that, and ways to get to the bottom of such hills without the brakes overheating. Also to help when entering river crossings from a steep descent and to not have the constant noise/shudder of wet brakes.

    I have an 05 platinum 3.2 auto.
  • Nab
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 1410
    • Perth

    #2
    I sometimes experimented with left foot braking and using the handbrake. Sort of helped, short of getting a manual and reduction gears I think braking is it!!!
    SOLD 2004 NP 3.2 auto
    NOW 2014 Ranger XLT auto

    Comment

    • Pixie_au
      Member
      • Apr 2019
      • 161
      • Queensland

      #3
      I think the technique is to stab the brakes to bring the revs down and use a combination of compression and brakes

      Would love to know the alternatives also.

      Comment

      • old Jack
        Regular
        • Jun 2011
        • 11606
        • Adelaide, South Australia.

        #4
        1. For short distances of steep terrain you can use the handbrake but on extended descents you run the risk of overheating the hand brake and glazing the shoes.

        2. Fit aftermarket transfer gears so low range gearing is lower and a HD valve body, this is around $3,500 so you you would want to be doing a lot of off road work to justify this or have enough "hobby money".

        3. Fit an aftermarket Torque Convertor kit and HD valve body from Wholesale Automatics. $2,500 approx. This assists but is not as good as reduction gears.


        In the PB/PC Challenger with the 5 speed Jatco Auto, the manual mode of Auto-Mate and Lockup Mate (from MM4x4), increase the engine braking by locking up the torque convertor in low 1st so this assists but is not as good as reduction gears.


        OJ.
        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

        Comment

        • Terryo
          Valued Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 484
          • Where ever we are parked, traveling full time

          #5
          I have a HD Torque converter and HD valve body and it makes a very noticeable difference to down hill engine braking. If you are planning on keeping the Pajero for a while it might be worth talking to Wholsale Automatics and have some preventative maintenance done to your gearbox and have them fitted at the same time.
          The pins have a habit of falling out causing catastrophic falure of the gearbox requiring a complete rebuild as mine did at 370K. From memory it was about $3800 just for the gearset.

          Terry
          2015 NX GLX DiD,MM Steel bullbar, Ultimate Suspension 2” lift, King 9’ LED driving lights, Uniden UHF, TJM underbody protection, Engine Watchdog. Munji EGR delete cable.Dual battery. Ultra Guage, Fuel Manager primary fuel filter. KAON Cargo barrier. Drifta drawer and fridge slide. MM4x4 Automate Pro. In tow,Track Trailer T van.

          Previously
          NH 1992 GLS 3.0 V6 13 years
          NP 2005 GLX 3.2 DiD 12 years

          Comment

          • Old Paj
            Pajero Club Life Member
            • Jun 2007
            • 356
            • Heathcote, Vic

            #6
            Downhill

            While there are all number of expensive options:

            Keep the torque converter locked up by left foot braking and right foot acceleration and you can (when you get it right) literally walk the vehicle down the hill.

            I admit this is certainly one of those skills that needs practice.
            NX Pajero, Duel Batteries (under bonnet), Factory Nudge Bar, Kings Springs, Bilstein Shocks, TowPro Elite, Icom IC-450, Cooper ST-Maxx Tyres (off road), AutoMate, towing 2015 Vista Crossover XL.

            Comment

            • old Jack
              Regular
              • Jun 2011
              • 11606
              • Adelaide, South Australia.

              #7
              Originally posted by Old Paj View Post
              While there are all number of expensive options:

              Keep the torque converter locked up by left foot braking and right foot acceleration and you can (when you get it right) literally walk the vehicle down the hill.

              I admit this is certainly one of those skills that needs practice.
              The above mentioned method is known as "drive through braking", the torque convertor does not actually lockup but "functions" rather than being bypassed so it does aid in retardation of forward movement. It is quite difficult to mantain for extended periods of time on rough tracks.

              The following is a method I use (and share with others) when doing steep downhill decents. When using this method you do need to be aware of the heat build up in the brakes. The following is copied from here... Off-Road Driving Manual ,there is other information to read also. Yes, I...


              OJ.
              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

              Comment

              • Hatto
                Valued Member
                • Nov 2013
                • 1208
                • Mandurah WA

                #8
                This all sounds great in theory but I know in my NW if i use the brake and accelerator at the same time the car throws a wobbly and cuts power like as if ASC has activated after wheel spin.
                Dont know weather the gen 3's do the same or not?
                Cheers, Hatto

                2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
                ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

                Comment

                • Crash76
                  Junior Member
                  • May 2015
                  • 20
                  • Warranwood

                  #9
                  Thanks for the replies guys, unfortunately i cant justify a gearbox rebuild!
                  I might try the "drive-through the braking" concept and see how that goes. it makes sense when i think about it, but will need some convincing to make the right foot go harder on a wet slope!!

                  Comment

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