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Pajero 2007 NS Petrol Oil Leak

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  • Taccess
    Junior Member
    • May 2019
    • 28
    • Perth

    Pajero 2007 NS Petrol Oil Leak

    Hi



    I am wondering if anyone can help me identify the required gasket and any tips on fixing a leak on my pajero.


    The leak itself is dripping out of a bolt.

    Its really slow leak barely a drip a day.

    The position of the leak is drivers side, rear of the motor, up the topish section .







    Above : I am laying on the floor > looking straight up from under the pajero > Drivers Side > directly straight above the starter motor > that's the view of this photo )

    There is a triangle alloy plate bolted vertically to the motor, facing the driver which has three bolts, this triangle plate also has two at least or three electrical connections attached to it.






    Above : This is a close up of the bottom third bolt, the bolt that drips oil .





    Above : Here is a pic from top > under the hood > drivers side > between steering wheel and throttle body inlet. The yellow circles are the electrical connections, and the red lines shows kind off the shape off the triangle alloy piece facing the driver.


    Does anyone know what this triangular Alloy part is called and is it easy to change the gasket ?


    I believe i can undo the three bolts so i am hoping to give it a go ?
  • Taccess
    Junior Member
    • May 2019
    • 28
    • Perth

    #2
    Someone Must know what this is called surely



    Really need to find out what this part is called

    Comment

    • erad
      Valued Member
      • Mar 2015
      • 5067
      • Cooma NSW

      #3
      Sorry, I cannot identify the source from your photos. Oil is certainly coming down from higher up in the engine - somewhere. From experience, the oil leak could come from the rear camshaft cover plates. These plates are located in the heads, about half way up the rear face of the head. They are elliptical plates with two bolts holding the plate in the head. The plate itself has a cylindrical projection, sealed with an O ring. The O ring is quite cheap from the Mits dealers, and apart from needing a 5 way triple articulated hand/wrist joint, is a simple 10 minute job to replace - 2 x 10 mm bolts and slide out the offending part. Prise off the old O ring, replace it and re-install. There was a posting in the Gen 3 section about 2 days about this very job.

      If it is not this O ring, it could be the rocket cover gasket getting hard. Be careful not to overtighten the cover because it is only pressed tin and is easily bent and distorted.

      Comment

      • Taccess
        Junior Member
        • May 2019
        • 28
        • Perth

        #4
        Hi



        Here is some more pics.
        I believe this leaking part is directly on the rear of the drivers side attached to the back of the Head block.
        I had a look on the passengers side at the rear of the Head block and there is a similar part on that side too although its shaped differently just for references sakes i thought i would mention that.



        This Leaking Alloy three bolted part faces the drivers knees it looks like its bolted to rear of the head.



        This Leaking alloy part has two electrical attachments and one "Extruding Bolt" see photos below.



        PIC A > https://ibb.co/ckH3wRP

        Took this photo from drivers side wheel looking under hood to back of motor > the red circles are the two electrical attachments and the extruding bolt.
        The yellow line is the top of the alloy bolt to bolt.







        PIC B > https://ibb.co/YLLP1g3
        Took this photo from drivers side showing the part attached to the rear of the head of the motor.
        Again the three red circles and yellow line are same as i explained above.





        PIC C> https://ibb.co/8dMyMkH
        This is looking from top downwards at the same part again attached to the back of the head.



        PIC D> https://ibb.co/sbxTdQG
        This is looking from top downwards at the same part again attached to the back of the head.

        Comment

        • aussieintas
          Valued Member
          • Feb 2013
          • 2191
          • Sorell, Tasmania

          #5
          The part is the oil feeder control valve. Below is link to online tech manual found on this forum and a pic of valve from tech manual. In tech manual section 11B

          Attached Files
          2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

          Previously
          88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
          92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
          92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
          99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
          95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
          08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

          Comment

          • aussieintas
            Valued Member
            • Feb 2013
            • 2191
            • Sorell, Tasmania

            #6
            Using Partsouq.com I've found the gasket of the valve. Pics below to assist.
            Attached Files
            2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

            Previously
            88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
            92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
            92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
            99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
            95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
            08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

            Comment

            • Taccess
              Junior Member
              • May 2019
              • 28
              • Perth

              #7
              Originally posted by aussieintas View Post
              Using Partsouq.com I've found the gasket of the valve. Pics below to assist.



              Thank you so much


              I have ordered the gasket through Mitsubishi for $18.59, arrives in a week.


              Just curious about something i was looking through the manual :

              1.Install the oil feeder control valve housing gasket and oil seal case gasket so that the protuberant is positioned as shown in the illustration.


              I take it that the housing gasket and oil seal gasket are the "same" gasket just from different views to explain how the protuberant is positioned ? Is that right because it almost sounds like two different gaskets but i am sure that would be structural weakness so surely it cant be.



              Also is there any other o rings or gaskets i should consider changing whilst i am doing the housing gasket ?
              Or any tips or advice to help this go smoother for me.



              Thanks so much again for your help really appreciate it (:

              Comment

              • Kingbrown
                Valued Member
                • Apr 2012
                • 1779
                • Port Augusta - SA

                #8
                Looking at the exploded view, they are two different gaskets
                Yours is item 12, the other one is item 15.
                2012 PB Challenger LS Manual

                Comment

                • Taccess
                  Junior Member
                  • May 2019
                  • 28
                  • Perth

                  #9
                  I hope this is not a silly question


                  Do i actually have to follow the removal to the letter ?


                  Can i leave the (Oil feeder control valve + Oil Pressure switch ) attached to the Oil feeder control valve housing and only disconnect the oil pipe in order to swap to feeder control Housing gasket ?


                  Or is there reasons for disconnecting the oil feeder control valve + oil switch and then reconnecting them ? sounds like the oil feeder control valve is attached to the cylinder head although it looks like its attached to the Oil feeder housing.
                  Last edited by Taccess; 10-05-19, 02:06 PM.

                  Comment

                  • Taccess
                    Junior Member
                    • May 2019
                    • 28
                    • Perth

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Kingbrown View Post
                    Looking at the exploded view, they are two different gaskets
                    Yours is item 12, the other one is item 15.

                    my leak is at item 12
                    Item 15 is at the front on the passenger side so i believe its not required ?

                    Comment

                    • Taccess
                      Junior Member
                      • May 2019
                      • 28
                      • Perth

                      #11
                      I am curious if i also need to order :


                      - O-ring ( oil feeder control valve )

                      - Gasket ( eye bolt )

                      - Three bond 1212D ( or exact equivalent to the threads of the oil pressure switch )

                      - Sealing tape (around the oil passages cut-out area of engine oil control valve, to prevent damage)

                      Comment

                      • aussieintas
                        Valued Member
                        • Feb 2013
                        • 2191
                        • Sorell, Tasmania

                        #12
                        Yes you only need the gasket number 12, number 15 is unrelated. The oil seal gasket is a completely different part situated at front of engine. Extra pi s below to explain.

                        I have never owned or worked on thsi engine so this is general info. Personally I would renew any gasket or oil ring that is moved or disturbed during the process.

                        So looking at the tech manual it looks like you have to possibly remove the oil pipe unbolting the eye bolts, then it looks like you can leave the control valve in the housing and just remove housing to replace gasket etc.

                        But for the small extra cost I would purchase the control valve oil ring and the oil pipe eye bolt seals just in case. You don't want to change the housing seal, put it back together and find one of the other seals is leaking or damaged during the process.

                        Finally you dont I believe have to follow the process fully like removing the vavle itself from the housing. Remeber the tech manual explains how to do the whole job or process of a particular item not just 1 little part ot it.

                        Hope that makes sense.
                        Attached Files
                        2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

                        Previously
                        88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
                        92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
                        92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
                        99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
                        95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
                        08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

                        Comment

                        • Taccess
                          Junior Member
                          • May 2019
                          • 28
                          • Perth

                          #13
                          Originally posted by aussieintas View Post
                          Yes you only need the gasket number 12, number 15 is unrelated. The oil seal gasket is a completely different part situated at front of engine. Extra pi s below to explain.

                          I have never owned or worked on thsi engine so this is general info. Personally I would renew any gasket or oil ring that is moved or disturbed during the process.

                          So looking at the tech manual it looks like you have to possibly remove the oil pipe unbolting the eye bolts, then it looks like you can leave the control valve in the housing and just remove housing to replace gasket etc.

                          But for the small extra cost I would purchase the control valve oil ring and the oil pipe eye bolt seals just in case. You don't want to change the housing seal, put it back together and find one of the other seals is leaking or damaged during the process.

                          Finally you dont I believe have to follow the process fully like removing the vavle itself from the housing. Remeber the tech manual explains how to do the whole job or process of a particular item not just 1 little part ot it.

                          Hope that makes sense.



                          Makes total sense thanks
                          I visited Automasters today and the mech came out and told me the same thing he said i can remove the three bolts and oil pipe eye bolts move it back slightly fit the new gasket and gently reconnect it.

                          Your right i will call tomorrow and order the o ring and eye bolt gaskets also.


                          Still need to wait a week for the gasket to arrive so my plans are to undo the three bolts from underneath as there seems to be access to all three bolts and the most room there to.

                          Comment

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