If said workshop replaced radiator, and did not advise to install the fan shroud at this stage, I would be finding a new workshop....
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MY14 GLX Pajero DID auto with Lift, 265/70 R17 Yoki X-AT's, Full Bushskinz plates , Scotts Rods 3" TBE, Johnny Tig FMIC, TME ECU remap, Provent, OL Bullbar, Ironman 9500lbs winch, dual batteries, Lockup mate lite, nomad valve body, aeroflow AF72-6000 transmission cooler with 9" fan and radiator cooler bypass, 3.15 reduction gears, traction contol mod (on/off), Uniden 8080S, flappy paddles, Rhino flat rack mounted on ARB rails, 42" Stedi ST3K light bar and custom drawers
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Bought a shroud from a wreckers and it only required the top plastic part that goes over the fan; would need to disconnect top radiator hose to replace the whole shroud so didn't bother. Still the same results, even in 11 degree morning this morning. Really pissing me off now to be told that the issue was fixed but they're telling me that all their work is fine. Cheers to everyone for the info and help so far though, i think I'll take it to Wright street and see if there are any issues
Also noted that radiator core was 24mm, would 2mm make a big difference? The fan also engages as soon as the engine is turned on in the mornings, is that normal too?Last edited by tomo88; 02-12-19, 12:55 PM.
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For about $40 from Repco you can buy an IR digital thermometer with laser pointer.
Use this to check the coolant temperature is really 117C when the OBD2 is reading 117C. Sensor units do fail. Have you really got a problem or just a faulty signal?
OJ.2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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Further to what Old Jack has said and given the issue persists, I'd be tempted to go for a aftermarket coolant temp gauge.
Pluming it into the return pipe on the radiator is not ideal for pin-point accurate temps, but its an easy and cheap (less than $100) way to get a second opinion on the coolant temp, whilst the car is driving and in real time.
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Definitely get an after market temp gauge. Talking to my mate today, who owns an NS. He said he towed a tandem trailer with a few racing motorcycles on it and heaps of gear. Over 2 tonne. Going up a steep range his auto temp got to 115, water 105 and intake 130 degrees. No alarms and water temp gauge on the dash didn't even move! He uses an Ultragauge.Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Originally posted by tomo88 View PostHi all,
Purchased my NS in February this year, been really enjoying it and picked it up locally (Adelaide) with a lot of the aftermarket stuff already done (snorkel, lift, winch, EGR, exhaust).
It's given me no grief over the last 10 months and been on a couple trips. Took it to a 4x4 specialist in the area who suggested a timing chain replacement. I intend on keeping the vehicle for a good while (270 on the clock, 260k when bought) so I thought ok I'll invest in it. They recommended radiator change too as it was brittle when removed.
I work in the Adelaide Hills so always drive up the freeway in the morning and noticed that the engine was running very hot. Had never had the temp gauge go past half the whole time owning it. Opened the bonnet and noticed nothing in the resivour and took it back. They said leak in one of the hoses but was still running hotter than they liked. They said the viscous clutch was empty (no oil) and refurbed that as well as new thermostat.
Was still going up to 3/4 on the temp gauge up the high so I called and they said that that was 93 degrees which was optimal. I borrowed a friend's obd Bluetooth tool and have recorded a few runs and all times it peaks at 117 degrees Celsius at which point the hill stops so I cannot continue further, at which point the engine cools back to around 85-90.
Is 117 normal? Speaking to a few people they reckon it's quite hot. Would the car go into limp mode at this point or is it OK for the engine to operate at this range? Many thanks for your opinions.
I had to go up the freeway (the same hill) today so took note of how mine preformed temperature wise.
I started at the lights turning left off Portrush Rd onto the freeway (standing start from a red light). To make a repeatable test, I maintained the gazetted speed limit (flogging it a bit more than I normally would), used manual mode but didn’t go past 4th gear (torque converter lockup turned off), and had the climate control set to 20.5c. According to the dash display, the outside temp was 36c. I was had a bit of weight on board and was close to GVM.
At the Portrush Rd / freeway intsection the coolant temp was 90c. At the top right at the Crafers turn off coolant temp was 98c.Last edited by geopaj; 13-01-20, 09:40 PM.Silver NT VRX Di-D
ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches
My Build Thread - HERE
Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')
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Originally posted by geopaj View PostIs there any update mate? Have you got it sorted?
I had to go up the freeway (the same hill) today so took note of how mine preformed temperature wise.
I started at the lights turning left off Portrush Rd onto the freeway (standing start from a red light). To make a repeatable test, I maintained the gazetted speed limit (flogging it a bit more than I normally would), used manual mode but didn’t go past 4th gear (torque converter lockup turned off), and had the climate control set to 20.5c. According to the dash display, the outside temp was 36c. I was had a bit of weight on board and was close to GVM.
At the Portrush Rd / freeway intsection the coolant temp was 90c. At the top right at the Crafers turn off coolant temp was 98c.
Since last year Ive taken it to another mob in Gilles plains and explained the issue. They started with clearing out a lot of dirt from the radiator hosing and putting foam in to fill any gaps around the radiator. Unfortunately that didn't fix it, they recommended the next thing to be an egr block but could have sworn the bloke before me said he had it done. I haven't since been back to get that checked but since then I was having some real rough idling, especially at idle. It would put along and then sound like it was about to stall and then do it again. Bloke at work said SCV, ordered a Denso (hopefully) from eBay and she purrs like a kitten now. Unfortunately didn't fix the heating issue.
Thanks for sharing your numbers though; I'm probably a few degrees higher than yours when I put it in manual mode and leave it in fourth by the time I hit crackers, so maybe it is in fact ok. I do have the fridge in the car and drawer set up so unsure how that compares to the load you had.
Originally I never used to use the manual function ( I understand now that it's better to be in a lower gear and use the lock up) and the temp needle never went past half which is what prompted this thread cause it all just started happening when I got my timing chain done.
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Originally posted by tomo88 View PostG'day geo, sorry about the late reply; it's been of a hectic year haha, was in kangaroo island for a bit and then all this covid stuff so haven't actually been driving up the hill much haha.
Since last year Ive taken it to another mob in Gilles plains and explained the issue. They started with clearing out a lot of dirt from the radiator hosing and putting foam in to fill any gaps around the radiator. Unfortunately that didn't fix it, they recommended the next thing to be an egr block but could have sworn the bloke before me said he had it done. I haven't since been back to get that checked but since then I was having some real rough idling, especially at idle. It would put along and then sound like it was about to stall and then do it again. Bloke at work said SCV, ordered a Denso (hopefully) from eBay and she purrs like a kitten now. Unfortunately didn't fix the heating issue.
Thanks for sharing your numbers though; I'm probably a few degrees higher than yours when I put it in manual mode and leave it in fourth by the time I hit crackers, so maybe it is in fact ok. I do have the fridge in the car and drawer set up so unsure how that compares to the load you had.
Originally I never used to use the manual function ( I understand now that it's better to be in a lower gear and use the lock up) and the temp needle never went past half which is what prompted this thread cause it all just started happening when I got my timing chain done.
Sounds like mine was/is a bit heavier than how you runLast edited by geopaj; 06-05-20, 10:05 PM.Silver NT VRX Di-D
ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches
My Build Thread - HERE
Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')
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