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1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 1 of 4

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  • Craig Williams
    Member
    • Aug 2014
    • 77
    • Gold Coast

    1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 1 of 4

    1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 1 of 4

    This procedure is for rear disc brakes.
    Note: My Pajero is a 1988 IMPORT 2.5TDI SWB with four wheel discs. I think rear disc brakes makes it simpler to do than a vehicle with rear drum brakes, as you do not have to remove the brake shoes etc..

    This procedure is not for the seal on the shaft itself, you would need a mechanic with a press to do this as I understand.

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    The leak, notice the diff oil dribbling down the tyre side wall
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    Remove the wheel
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    The tools required
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    Drain the diff, unscrew the M24 bottom bolt at the bottom and loosen the refill M24 bolt half way up the diff (to allow it to drain more quickly). You do not need to take the refill bolt out fully just yet.
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    To refill later you will need one of these (or similar).
    Last edited by Craig Williams; 18-12-14, 08:53 AM.
  • Craig Williams
    Member
    • Aug 2014
    • 77
    • Gold Coast

    #2
    1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 2 of 4

    1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 2 of 4

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    Undo the M12 bolt that holds the hand brake cable to the frame so you can have more flexibility to hang up the rear brake caliper in the next step
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    Unscrew the two M17 bolts behind the backing plate and hang the caliper using a wire. Then undo the M12 bolt for the bracket which holds the rigid brake line in place, so it will be freed from the backing plate.
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    Next undo the four M10 bolts which hold on the backing plate
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    Remove the four M14 nuts holding the axle shaft and flange to the diff housing (this is more easily achieived with the backing plate loosened off)
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    The photo above shows the shaft just coming apart by about one inch, so... Pull on the flange and the axle shaft should pop out, some force maybe needed here, however, my one came fairly easily. If tight, put the wheel back on and whack it hard to free the shaft (and its bearing, which is where it could be binding or use a slide hammer). Once the axle flange is freed up carefully support the axle shaft as you slide it all the way out. This is more critical when replacing the shaft. When you do replace the shaft make sure you support it’s weight so it does not place undue pressure on the new seal!
    Last edited by Craig Williams; 18-12-14, 08:57 AM.

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    • Craig Williams
      Member
      • Aug 2014
      • 77
      • Gold Coast

      #3
      1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 3 of 4

      1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 3 of 4

      Click image for larger version

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      Have a clean oil dip tray ready to catch the axle assembly and the oil which drips out once freed
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      The old axle seal still in place, clean away all the oil so you can get at it to remove it
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      Drill two holes 180 degrees apart into the seal (it has a metal layer under the outer grey rubber) and screw into the holes, two self tapping screws (only one has been shown in this photo). Then with a claw hammer grip the head of the screw and pull hard a small distance. Then do the same on the opposite side’s self tapping screw. Slowly, work between the two screws easing the old seal out (or use a slide hammer).
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      The seal about to fall out
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      The new rear axle seal cost me $7.51 from Allied Bearings in Nerang, Gold Coast, Queensland. You can see both my old seal and the new one in this photo above.
      Last edited by Craig Williams; 18-12-14, 09:00 AM.

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      • Craig Williams
        Member
        • Aug 2014
        • 77
        • Gold Coast

        #4
        1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 4 of 4

        1988 Pajero Replace Rear Axle Seal Part 4 of 4

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        Wipe away all traces of old oil and ensure the “seat” for the new bearing is very clean
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        Centre the new seal just in the hole and push by hand to get it “started” and on centre. Now with a wooden dowel carefully “tap” the seal in until it is fully seated by going around in a circle tapping lightly to progressively force it down into place. Alternatively you might have a pipe that fits to the outer diameter of the seal, hit around its hard outer ring, do not hit the soft inner flexible rubber ring.
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        The new seal in place
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        Wipe general purpose grease (or vaseline) all around the new seal before sliding the axle shaft back in. Very carefully slide the axle shaft back in, supporting its weight all the way back in. Jiggle it a bit as you get it near fully installed so as to re-mesh the splines back into the differential. Spin the flange to check it turns properly without any binding or jamming.
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        Re-tighten the four M14 nuts, then the four backing plate bolts M10 need to be done up.
        Then, replace the caliper
        And its two M17 bolts and the bracket to the brake hydraulic line, which is an M12 and then the M12 bolt holding the hand brake cable to the frame.
        Replace the brake rotor and put the wheel back on (six M21 nuts). Lower the vehicle to the ground so it is sitting level.
        Tighten the diff drain M24 bolt first then finish unscrewing the half way up (refill) bolt. Finally, top up the diff oil you originally drained (or replace with new 1.5 litres Hypoid Gear Oil 85W-90, GL-5) until oil starts coming back out the refill hole. I re-used the diff oil (as it was fairly new) so I made sure the blue ice cream container was clean on the inside.
        Replace M24 diff refill bolt.
        Note: You drained the oil from the diff at the start (and placed down a clean drip tray), so that you did not make a big oil mess on your driveway when the axle shaft slid out and therefore you did not cop it from the wife due to the foul smell of a major diff oil spill! The bad smell comes from sulphur which is an additive thats helps to form a coating on metal surfaces and this coating reduces friction.
        Last edited by Craig Williams; 18-12-14, 09:08 AM.

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        • kreyzgym
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2012
          • 275
          • Melbourne

          #5
          There's already a how to kicking around. Always good for a cross reference though.. Good work
          1989 NG single cab ute. 33" Federals, ARB bar & completely incomplete

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