NJV6's NTDID

[NJV6]

Greetings from a long term Pajero owner, haven't been on this site for a while but am back into it, 11 years ago I bought a 1994 SWB 3.5 Manual and have used it for extensive 4WDing and touring in NZ. It has been a great toy except pretty expensive to run! I have been looking for a diesel one and have had a 96 & 99 model but only kept them for a few months. The 96 one was a 2.8 with the electronic fuel pump & 140hp, it went real good.

A gen 3 manual 3.2 came up for sale and we tried to buy it, but missed out and any others we saw were getting high in km, until a 2011 with 67000km came up for sale. So I hopped on the plane and drove it 1500km home.

It is an Australian import GLX spec in white, so you all know what it looks like! It has a smartbar on it at the moment.

Impressions having come from a NJ lifted on 33's was excellent. Steering feels amazing and is worlds apart. Performance from the 3.2 is crazy on the open road. It is not quick through the gears lets be honest, and the gearbox is slow and you notice the turbo lag but the grunt when in gear is great. Its quieter from engine noise but probably more road noise due to no chassis. I got 1000km from the tank just as the fuel light came on so was well chuffed and put 77 litres in.

Other things in noticed on the drive home,
Brake rotors need a skim
Driveline clonk when off/on with the power (might have found out what this is thanks to this forum - yet to check left rear wheel)
Engine revs don't instantly drop changing gear, need to move quite slowly

I think it is what you refer to as a NT. When was the swap to NW? This one was built July 2011.

Before I bought the vehicle I did a revscheck to make sure it was legit and all seemed in order.

The idea is that it will be mostly a shiny road tourer and the old NJ will be for my more challenging 4WDing. I also have a cutdown NH model with coiled front end and a V8.

1st & only mod was to stop the seat belt chime whenever the key is on! If only all mods were this simple.

To-do lists short term
Lift spare wheel
EGR mod
CB radio
Replacement bullbar

Glen

[NJV6]

I have a couple of questions,
1, the response between gear changes on my manual is poor, there is a large delay of a couple of seconds before the boost builds and the vehicle pulls again. Once boosting it is great. Any way to improve the response?

2, Off idle response is poor, I came from a 3.0 litre ford ranger and it was far superior in this regard, I thought being a big engine it would be better than it is. (maybe point 1 & 2 are related?)
Vehicle completely standard @ 70000km.

3, What bullbar to buy, I want a winch bar that sticks out the front as little as possible. I have done alot of picture looking and it appears the TJM T13 bar sticks out the least? I like the look of the ARB sahara bar but they all seem to take away alot of approach angle

Any comments appreciated

[NJV6]

Some pictures as it turned up




And the 1st job was straight to the tyre shop for some of the new BFG KO2's, just in the standard size.


Done about 1000 km on them, impressions - firmer ride, a bit more harsh but I knew it would be, a trade off for a strong tyre. Quiet enough, a bit more noisy that the HT's and more noise that a 4WD with a rubber mounted chassis.

[P4J3R0]

Nice clean starting point.

Looking forward to your build up.

[Scouter1]

I have a couple of questions,
1, the response between gear changes on my manual is poor, there is a large delay of a couple of seconds before the boost builds and the vehicle pulls again. Once boosting it is great. Any way to improve the response?

2, Off idle response is poor, I came from a 3.0 litre ford ranger and it was far superior in this regard, I thought being a big engine it would be better than it is. (maybe point 1 & 2 are related?)
Vehicle completely standard @ 70000km

Hi Glen, the Pajero Gen 4 CRD motors respond well to modifying the ECU control of fuel injection with external chip/s or ECU remapping, and a larger (3") turbo back exhaust. A number of forum members have undertaken these mods to improve overall response, especially off the line performance. Beyond this, you could consider a replacement intercooler, the standard one is fairly restrictive. Lots of info on these mods in previous threads, try an internal or Google site specific search on chip exhaust and intercooler in Gen 4 sub forums.

NW was launched in October 2011, some more detail here http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=8

Cheers,
Stephen

[NJV6]

The 1st trip showed up alot of noise from the dashboard and rear door. Seems this is normal!

When I started pulling the dash apart I found an entire Nokia car mobile phone kit tucked in behind with all the wires cut to to anything that was mounted in the interior, none of it screwed down so that was all rattling away too.

So I got to work pulling the dash apart and doing some cable tie mods.


These two screws needed a tighten up


This here rattled alot, and its wiring got zip tied


and all the heater ducting got zip tied until they didn't move at all, (prob 10 or so ties). Added the cable ties as per the cable tie dashboard thread.

Made a bracket up for the instrument cluster as it seemed to have the most movement out of all the dash, and it is now solid.


Removed the rear door trim to see what the racket going on in there is, the high stop light was not screwed in, just hanging in place floating around in the plastic cavity.
The factory MM towbar ECU behind the right rear trim was also banging away, it is now screwed to the body.

[NJV6]

Installed the Ultragauge



And we put it to work too

[NJV6]

Fitted the SPV EGR, so simple and effective.


Now that I had the EGR disabled, it was time to attack the inlet manifold.

Off it came, just methodical, except for two dam bolts under the manifold , once I worked out they were there.




The head ports were bad too but it is pretty difficult to get them clean without taking the head off, I scraped as carefully as I could with compressed air but probably didn't get much. I took the tappet cover off to make sure the valves were fully closed.


Inlet manifold after scraping and pressure washing, nice and clear of any crud.


I imagine the injector lines will need replaced soon, they have been off close to 5 times, tappet adjustment, cam chain tensioner factory recall and now this time.

[RUGGA]

Well done. Chipping away at all these jobs how is it now after the manifold clean and the dash mixes?

[NJV6]

Gave it a proper run yesterday, 1st run with manifold back on, it went real good, had a good 2 ton on the back, was worth doing for piece of mind, nothing to back up my idea that it goes better - but it can't be worse!

Anyone else notice a bit of a squeak coming from the rear with a trailer and a decent load on? My old NJ with same load is silent.

[NJV6]

Time for a snorkel for piece of mind, I hate the feeling of a splash of water over the bonnet without a snorkel and tend to be in water a bit.

I bought a Safari Snorkel as I had used them before and liked how well they fit, Yes they are dearer than a Chinese rip off I could have used but the kit has absolutely everything in it, right down to the zip ties. I chose Safari over TJM airtec as the Safari has the ability to put a pre filter on which I use on club trips. The TJM one is about $50 dearer here.

Mark twice, cut once... I love this part......



Indicator needs relocating


Airbox needs moving rearward


You loose the great big window washer tank and it gets replaced by this little one


Airbox moved back to fit ducting along the front


More holes with a touch of primer to prevent rust


The kit comes with a piece to fill old indicator hole


Final fitment


This was a technical fit compared to any I have done before with alot of bits to do. I took my time, did it in an easy day. Pity about the silly Mitsi clips holding the inner guard in place, zip ties it is now!


It makes a glorious induction sound with the window down but thankfully is not noticeable with the window up.

[NJV6]

So today I attacked lifting the spare wheel, I removed the wheel, had a stare for a while then decided to take the mount off and turn it upside down.

The mount is not even both sides so I spaced it out 10mm on one side and used longer bolts.

The 1st pic is how it goes without the spacers, tyre a bit close to the door, looks odd.


The 2nd with the spacers, I didn't have any suitable flat bar so these will do in the short term.


The 3rd is how much the wheel gets lifted by. Time will tell if it is enough, it was very easy to do and reverse if not enough.

[green troll]

Great thinking with the wheel lift mate. I might try that. Also good work with the snorkel. I'm going to do this myself after the fiasco with my last 4wd. Nothing debured no paint on fresh metal. Could fit my finger between fender and snorkel.not sealed. Terrible!!!

Does the Tjm snorkel miss the indicator? And do they do the same with the washer bottle? As safari

[NJV6]

Dual Battery tray

I didn't really like the look of anything that you could buy except the ARB one and it was too expensive so I made my own.
The original fiberglass tray was cracked and broken at the tie down point so I binned it


New tray


Drilled the old water overflow bottle mount off and welded it to the new tray & paint



In position


2nd battery tray needs to be slightly higher to clear air con lines and slightly sideways to clear fuel filter



Yes it looks industrial :lol:

Secondary 3 micron fuel filter fitted up into place as well and just enough room left to fit the Voltage Sensitive Relay.

[NJV6]

A while ago the news springs turned up, Lovells from Australia and Bilsteins. I was a bit nervous with how it would ride as they are bloody heavy springs



Before


Old vs New


Rear ones in


Fronts assembled (only bit I couldn't do)


Front in


Finished product




It has settled from that 90mm lift to about 50mm which was the aim. The rear wheel alignment with the IRS was miles out.

I needn't have worried about the ride quality, its better on the road and off it. No where near as pleasant as the old NJ off road which is a shame but better on road. They are heavy duty fronts and standard duty rears.