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Generation 4-2 Pajero NT model 2009 - 2011

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  #1  
Old 13-01-20
Achilles Achilles is offline
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Default Pajero goes from second stage of ignition to dying when key is fully turned

Hey guys, wondering if anyone has experienced anything like this:

Driving the Pajero today and whilst taking off from lights it went into limp mode: engine light on, centre diff lock light flashing, rough gear changes, reduced power. I read that blown fuses can cause it to go into limp mode, so I checked all the blade fuses and no issues. Ended up getting towed back to my house. Went to turn it on again, initially the lights turned on and the dials lit up, then when I went to turn it over it died completely. No lights, nothing on the dash, as if there was no battery at all. Turning it off didn't reset it, couldn't let anything to work after that. I then attached a good battery, the lights turned on and everything worked again - but I went to turn the car over again, and the same thing happened. Might be relevant: I (gently) hosed out the engine bay 2 days prior, though it ran fine for 2 days. Any ideas??

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Old 14-01-20
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Does the motor turn over at all, or does it only fail when turning the key to START?

ie, OFF>ACC>ON is OK, but START causes it to die completely?


Also, is it a 3.2 DiD?
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Old 14-01-20
Achilles Achilles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _jp_ View Post
Does the motor turn over at all, or does it only fail when turning the key to START?

ie, OFF>ACC>ON is OK, but START causes it to die completely?


Also, is it a 3.2 DiD?
Hey JP, yes that's correct. Goes to ON, but START causes it to die completely. And it's the 3.2 turbo diesel, yes.
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Old 14-01-20
spot01 spot01 is online now
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Since you mentioned fuses are OK, I assume you have checked the hazard lights work?


Could be a battery issue - how old is it?


When you connected the other battery, are you sure that battery was good & fully charged?
Are the jumper cables you used up to the task of starting it if the main battery is completely flat? (many are not good enough to do this - did the cables get hot?)


What is the voltage measurement of the 2 batteries?


Have you tried charging the main battery?
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Old 14-01-20
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I'll guess a high resistance joint somewhere associated with the starting current - once the starter motor kicks in (or tries to) the higher current causes voltage drop across the joint, so the rest of the system drops out on under-voltage.

The only problem with my theory is that I can't quite imagine where said high resistance joint could be. I'd find an assistant to sit and operate the key while using a multi-meter to probe various points in the starter circuit, the +12V side and the -ve side, looking at how voltages change between ignition on and attempting to start.

Edit: stretching here, but I've had a look at schematics, and I'd have another good look at Fuse 27 in the interior fuse box. It's one of the separate group of four on upper left:

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...874AB00ENG.pdf
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Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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Old 14-01-20
Achilles Achilles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spot01 View Post
Since you mentioned fuses are OK, I assume you have checked the hazard lights work?


Could be a battery issue - how old is it?


When you connected the other battery, are you sure that battery was good & fully charged?
Are the jumper cables you used up to the task of starting it if the main battery is completely flat? (many are not good enough to do this - did the cables get hot?)


What is the voltage measurement of the 2 batteries?


Have you tried charging the main battery?
Yep, hazard lights work, as do all other lights (at least before the electrics died completely). The battery is 12 months old, gives me 12.8V on the voltmeter.

When I attached the other battery (which is only 2 weeks old) I connected it directly as opposed to using jumpers. But it was from a focus, so perhaps it can't supply enough amps?

Haven't tried charging the main battery so I'll give that a shot - thanks!
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Old 14-01-20
Achilles Achilles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
I'll guess a high resistance joint somewhere associated with the starting current - once the starter motor kicks in (or tries to) the higher current causes voltage drop across the joint, so the rest of the system drops out on under-voltage.

The only problem with my theory is that I can't quite imagine where said high resistance joint could be. I'd find an assistant to sit and operate the key while using a multi-meter to probe various points in the starter circuit, the +12V side and the -ve side, looking at how voltages change between ignition on and attempting to start.

Edit: stretching here, but I've had a look at schematics, and I'd have another good look at Fuse 27 in the interior fuse box. It's one of the separate group of four on upper left:

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...874AB00ENG.pdf
Thanks for your reply! I'm a little ignorant when it comes to circuits - what's a high resistance joint? I'll have a look at fuse 27, can't load the manual on my phone but I'm assuming it's not a blade fuse?
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Old 14-01-20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles View Post
Thanks for your reply! I'm a little ignorant when it comes to circuits - what's a high resistance joint? I'll have a look at fuse 27, can't load the manual on my phone but I'm assuming it's not a blade fuse?


Blade fuse inside the cabin.
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File Type: jpg NT internal fuse box.jpg (13.8 KB, 89 views)
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

Scorpro Explorer Box
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Old 14-01-20
Achilles Achilles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post


Blade fuse inside the cabin.
Thanks mate, just checked and that fuse is fine. I looked at the negative terminal though and it's corroded as hell. Will try clearing that.



https://pasteboard.co/IPSd6wL.jpg
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Old 14-01-20
Achilles Achilles is offline
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Update: cleaned the corrosion with boiling water. Got the car to start again, but it still goes into limp mode. Seems to be as soon as it changes up from first gear
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