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Generation 4-4 Pajero NX model 2014 -

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Old 19-12-19
Amish Warrior Amish Warrior is offline
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Default Auto-Mate fitting to a 2016 NX

I have recently purchased a Auto-Mate kit to complement the towing that I do in it and thought I'd run through the Process of Fitting it and my Impressions so far.

The Installation Manual states that it should take about 2 Hours, it was quite thorough but it did require a few steps where I had to "Wing it". Actual time about 5 hours with taking Photos, Trial'n'Error and having to run off and buy things (I already have) to Complete the Install.

Package contents and Instructions



Step 1: Disconnect battery/ies, use a spanner


Step2: Locate and remove any OBD2 Dongles. Also remove the Driver-side kick panel on transmission tunnel, use a Philips-head screwdriver and use hand to pull panel outward. 2 white clips should pop out.




Step 3: Remove Passenger-side kick panel on transmission tunnel, using same technique.



Step 4: Remove Passenger-side under-dash cover panel, using a Flat-head screwdriver to ply the center of grey clips out. There is 2 grey clips, one at the front pointing down, one at the back (attaching to firewall facing toward passenger) then pull down to release the 3 white clips...




Step 5: Remove passenger-side scuff plate, using paint scrapper by levering up
[url]https://i.imgur.com/Xl3TFAwl.jpg[/img]
[

Last edited by Amish Warrior; 20-12-19 at 04:40 AM. Reason: Working out how to add pictures
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Old 19-12-19
Amish Warrior Amish Warrior is offline
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Step 6: Remove Passenger-side door panel, using a Flat-head screwdriver to pry the grey clip on firewall forward. Note that the round thing is where a Safety flare is required to sits in Japanese Domestic Cars and not Pygmy umbrellas...lol



Step 7: Push the Passenger-side seat back and pull the floor carpet back towards the seat (jiggle it past the second cover on the transmission tunnel), exposing the foam cover to the AT ECU cradle. Remove foam cover using long nose pliers to unscrew





Step 8:
Use a 12mm Ratchet to remove the 3 Nuts holding the AT ECU to the firewall. Remove the right side plug from ECU. Identify then Cut the Green and Red wires (on the removed RIGHT-hand plug), leaving a safe amount of wire to allow for Errors (more on that later). Cut'n'strip at least 5mm of wire, then Flux'n'Tin with Solder the ends



Step 9: Join the Red (on AT ECU end) to the Orange (on the Loom), Join the Green wire (on AT ECU end) to the Black (on the Loom), Join the Red (on Solenoid end) to the Yellow (on the Loom), Join the Green wire (on Solenoid end) to the Brown (on the Loom). I Soldered and Shrink-wrapped them together.




Step 10: I use some Kapton-tape to wrap, then re-attached the Plug to the AT ECU. the Instructions tell you to attach the Solenoid to a Metal heat-sink to dissipate heat (it is attached to the sidewall near the Door/other Plugs in the Instructions) but I decided to use use the available space beside the AT ECU (with a little CPU Heat-sink grease behind it), it has enough airflow around it. Then re-attach the AT ECU to the firewall and route the other end of the Loom with the Black "6 pin" Molex-plug on it, to the gap under the dash/above the front of the Transmission-tunnel




Last edited by Amish Warrior; 20-12-19 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 19-12-19
Pixie_au Pixie_au is offline
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Good onya AW

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Old 19-12-19
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Keithyv Keithyv is online now
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Nice job Amish.

The bit that took me the longest was mounting the resistor (apparently all my drill bits are blunt) and getting the plug plugged into the shifter lever (A mongrel to get to)

Otherwise probably took 3 hours, 1 of those was futzing around mounting the big resistor *!$

All well worth it in the end however.
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Old 19-12-19
wfc100 wfc100 is offline
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Default Automate

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithyv View Post
Nice job Amish.

The bit that took me the longest was mounting the resistor (apparently all my drill bits are blunt) and getting the plug plugged into the shifter lever (A mongrel to get to)

Otherwise probably took 3 hours, 1 of those was futzing around mounting the big resistor *!$

All well worth it in the end however.
Hi Keith could you relate this “getting the plug plugged into the shifter lever (A mongrel to get to)” to one of the steps I couldn’t find it.

Regards

Wayne
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Old 19-12-19
Ian H Ian H is offline
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It's the white plug on the harness which goes in to a plug sitting on the floor on top of the transmission tunnel. You have to squeeze your hand down there in front of the gear stick. It's shown in the instructions.
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Old 19-12-19
HeavyPizzaz HeavyPizzaz is offline
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If it’s the same as the Lock Up Mate, that was the point I wondered what on earth I was doing lol, but the trick is just be patient and keep trying. Every time you try to do those plugs, you’re one try closer to suddenly getting it then have (more) beer.


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Old 19-12-19
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Keithyv Keithyv is online now
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Ah my mistake, auto-mate maybe does not have that mongrel step of getting to the plug in the console like lockup-mate does?
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MM Lockup mate. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with Light Force Spotties. Provent catch can. LED interior lights.
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Old 19-12-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithyv View Post
Ah my mistake, auto-mate maybe does not have that mongrel step of getting to the plug in the console like lockup-mate does?
Auto-mate should, not sure about lockup-mate, paddle-mate definitely does.
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Old 19-12-19
Ian H Ian H is offline
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After I'd fitted auto mate with that annoying plug, I bought paddles but not Paddle Mate as that isn't compatible with Auto Mate.

However, the Paddle kit still has that plug so i faced the question of which plug goes in first, Paddle or Auto. They both connect to the plug on the floor but there are two ways to do it.

In my case, the Paddles go in to the plug on the floor and Auto Mate connects to the other end of that loom and they both work as they should.

But it could be done the other way, connecting the Paddle plug to the floor and Auto Mate to the loom. Marshall didn't think it would make any difference either way.
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