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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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  #1  
Old 11-02-19
Luckyme Luckyme is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Williamtown
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Default New to the Pajero, 99 NL Exceed V6

G'day everyone,
Picking up the vehicle tomorrow and pretty excited to have what sounds like a very capable 4x4 to build up.
It's done 280k but full service history, has the flashing for the front select but after a quick read on here it is no biggie.
Hi to LLc works well and the engine is purring, this site is a wealth of knowledge.
What would be your first steps when I get it home, was thinking full service as it's due, maybe all fluids.
Runs well but just want to make sure.
Cheers.
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  #2  
Old 11-02-19
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Alex86 Alex86 is offline
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Yeah I’d replace all fluids/oils. At least you know it’s fresh and have a starting point. Keep the cost down and do it all yourself, or at least as much as you can.
Coolant, engine oil, gearbox oil/atf (depending whether man/aut), brake fluid, power steering fluid, transfer case oil, front and rear diff oil.
Oil and air filter. Maybe the in-line fuel filter as well.

A few $$$ but a bit of peace of mind- that it’s done and also that there’s (hopefully) nothing nasty in the old fluids.

When was the timing belt last done, can you confirm this? It might be due in about 20 thou.
__________________
'99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

'99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

Wanted: Adventure.
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  #3  
Old 11-02-19
erad erad is offline
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The rear diff will almost certainly be a limited slip diff, so you need LSD oil or at least an additive for that unit.


Coolant should be the green stuff (not pink because that will cause problems). I would even think about using the blue longlife stuff - after you have the timing belt changed.
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Old 12-02-19
Luckyme Luckyme is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Thanks for the information, will do all fluids as suggested and clean all electrical connections, timing belt and water was done at 205k so due in 20, has the paperwork.has a bit of clear coat that needs fixing and a good detail, should come up trumps.
Lift and tyres as the first upgrade? Seems cheap with the patrol coils and wind up if I'm correct.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-19
erad erad is offline
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Front wheel alignment will be required after front suspension wind up.
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  #6  
Old 12-02-19
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Alex86 Alex86 is offline
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If you can do the timing belt yourself, awesome. That’ll save a heap of $$$ in labour.
Otherwise, expect about a grand, give or take depending on where you go.

Consider a new water pump at the same time- if it develops a leak otherwise in the future, you’ve got to get the timing belt off to get to it.

I got my belt and pump done not long ago, just over a grand. Was leaking coolant somewhere so there was a bit of hunting around, was the pump itself. 30thou short of the next scheduled timing belt change, so it got new timing stuff, couldn’t be bothered paying 2x the labour, old stuff was off, something had to go back on may as well be new.

First upgrade can be whatever you want it to be! What do you want to do and what do you think you’ll get the most benefit from?
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'99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

'99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

Wanted: Adventure.
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  #7  
Old 12-02-19
MTN-KAT MTN-KAT is offline
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Hi Luckyme,
Congrats. After you have carried out all the sound advice you have been given, may I suggest a couple of excursions offroad to learn just how good the NL is before making any changes. Join a club or rustle up a friend or three to learn about your vehicle and gain new skills. All part of the journey. Happy trails.
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99 NL Escape 3.5L V6 LWB Wagon, "Aisin Auto", MM Alum Protector Bar, MM factory 'steel' underbody protector plates, Engine oil cooler, Transmission oil cooler, Side rails, Flares, MM Alloy wheels, HANKOOK Dynapro ATM LT tyres, Aftermarket Alarm, MM A.I.S. HPR15 Penrite engine oil. Penrite LS140 diff oil with 250ml LIMSLIP additive 7098.
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Old 12-02-19
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aussieguy aussieguy is offline
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If you are keen to go off road a bit I can strongly suggest getting low range reduction gear, having done suspension, lockers, tyres, winch and all other manner of mods on previous vehicles, reduction gears on a V6 pajero rates as best modification for off road uses. By off road i mean not driving dirt roads but tracks and less well traveled places.


best mod ever IMO.
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  #9  
Old 13-02-19
CliffordB CliffordB is offline
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Why's the low range reduction gear so good for a V6 Pajero btw? I might get it as well in that case.
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  #10  
Old 14-02-19
stumagoo stumagoo is offline
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Low range in these is considered to be a bit over geared.... where we use 1 or 2nd a lot would be using 2nd or 3rd.... reduction gears lower those ratios so that our 2nd crawls as slow as our first currently does but retains the gearing in high as it came from the factory. It allows for better ratios when bigger tires are fitted as well. The problem is it can cost as much as a whole gen 2 Pajero does (even if it is a ratty one) so its a mod for the keenist. A lot of us over here would love them but we end up going for diffs from a 2.8td for their ratios which help a little but not as much as the reductin gears
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1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL blisterside, 285.75.16's on -22 rims 3" suspension lift, stealth winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back

.... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
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