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Generation 4-2 Pajero NT model 2009 - 2011

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  #11  
Old 10-02-19
taczak taczak is offline
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Originally Posted by Hatto View Post
Definitely stay away from that dealer (all of them in my opinion). I'd trust advice from this forum more than my dealer by a long shot!
Exactly right Hatto! This dealer is full of

I must have been desperate going there as I don't have many tools/knowledge or anyone South of Melbourne who could help.

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Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
Find and print out the correct circuit diagrams from the online service manual.
http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...3/index_M1.htm
Thanks OJ. Today I will try to work out the wiring diagrams.

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Originally Posted by erad View Post
There has been some discussion about no voltage to the HBB. If there is no power to the HBB, there will be no brakes and you will soon know about that. the Dealer is talking through his fundamental orifice, and and the auto sparky doesn't seem to be much better.
I think I read that topic where the brakes failed within 2 KMs.
I've been assured by the service that the hydraulic braking system works fine and it's ok to drive apart from the electronic safety features not working. It's been 2 weeks and several hundred kms since the issue started.
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2009 VRX NT Bilstein B6, Lovells HD Springs, Ironman bullbar, 9' LED spotties, redarc dual battery system, 2 spare wheels, roof basket, 2x3 awning + 2.5 t. brick

Last edited by taczak; 10-02-19 at 09:38 AM.
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  #12  
Old 10-02-19
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Originally Posted by Keithyv View Post
You sure these guys are actually qualified auto sparkies?
Certainly doesn't sound like it. I'd say they're taking money under false pretences, bordering on fraud.

As for Mitsubishi dealers, we certainly see too much evidence that incompetence is far too common. It's probably grossly unfair to all the entirely competent work that goes unreported here, but it also amazes me how little MMA appears to care about the damage being done to the brand reputation.

Back to the OP: I feel for your pain, but I don't believe there is an easy solution for you. You've wasted your money at the first place, and at the dealer, and you're probably going to need to spend more money to get this sorted.

I wish you the best of luck.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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  #13  
Old 10-02-19
taczak taczak is offline
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Going through the fuses I found this very well cooked that looks like one of the 12 pin plug or trailer electronic brake unit. Back to the "auto electrician" on Monday.

The question is (and I don't think he will be able to answer it) how did it affect abs/etc error code?

EDIT:
All other fuses are good. ABS pump motor relays seems to be good too.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20190210_121139350.jpg (84.6 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20190210_121132327.jpg (90.4 KB, 48 views)
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2009 VRX NT Bilstein B6, Lovells HD Springs, Ironman bullbar, 9' LED spotties, redarc dual battery system, 2 spare wheels, roof basket, 2x3 awning + 2.5 t. brick

Last edited by taczak; 10-02-19 at 12:19 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-02-19
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That's not a factory fuse - any idea what it's supplying?

I've had my share of fuse holders melting like that under the bonnet, most recently last month. That style of holder simply can't handle large loads in the hot environment - a fuse at it's rated limit gets quite hot, and those holders don't dissipate that heat at all well, less well when it's hot outside the holder. Based on my experience with them, I'd say they shouldn't be used for a continuous load fused above 20A - except maybe spotlights, which would normally be used in the cool of night.

I severely doubt that fuse is the cause of your ABS / ETC problem, and I suspect returning to your "auto electrician" will only waste your time and money.
__________________
NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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  #15  
Old 10-02-19
taczak taczak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
That's not a factory fuse - any idea what it's supplying?
These fuses were added years ago by different sparkie who wired 12 pin plug and electric brakes unit.

What I've noticed sparkie who wired trailer's reverse camera went through the firewall in the same place as wiring mentioned above. Maybe he drilled through other wires or shortcuted something while connecting 12 pin
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2009 VRX NT Bilstein B6, Lovells HD Springs, Ironman bullbar, 9' LED spotties, redarc dual battery system, 2 spare wheels, roof basket, 2x3 awning + 2.5 t. brick

Last edited by taczak; 10-02-19 at 12:46 PM.
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