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PB -PC Challenger 2009 - 2014 Covering 2.5 HP diesel

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  #41  
Old 24-11-18
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littleriver littleriver is offline
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Originally Posted by acem8 View Post
My MY12 Challenger overheated for the first time this week exactly 4 years after the 127KPa cap was fitted as part of the 020116 'Preventative Action Service Campaign'. Despite showing them their invoice and work procedure from 2014 the dealer is refusing to acknowledge that my vehicle was part of campaign and also tell me that the manufacturers warranty has expired (I have the 10 year powertrain and have only done 80k). MMA put it in an email that neither is true but they still refuse to touch the vehicle until I pay a $120 diagnosis fee which will be very hard to recover when they conveniently fail to replicate the issue in their workshop. MMA are now backing them up on this.


This is really nice work on their part after paying their hefty dealer service charges for 6 years. I wouldn't mind but last year they had to rebuild the manual gearbox under the powertrain warranty due to the 3rd/4th gear synchro issue. They initially tried to charge a diagnosis fee but I guess it was such an obvious issue it was always going to be refunded.


What should I do here? From what people are saying once the engine has cooled (and the coolant topped up) the warning light goes out and it operates as normal until the next time. A friend of mine with a Triton broke down 3 times before they eventually gave in and fitted a new gearbox. I don't really fancy paying the $120 fee plus the expensive 84 month service now when we all know a new engine will probably have to be fitted.


I wouldn't buy another Mitsubishi, 2 serious defects on a vehicle that has done less than 80k. If it wasn't for the 10 year powertrain warranty this would be very expensive motoring.
Take it to another dealer ... if it’s a manufacturering defect under consumer law they have to fix it (even out of warranty period) ... pay the $120 and my money is on it will fail the test ... kaching new motor ...
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  #42  
Old 26-11-18
acem8 acem8 is offline
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I spoke to the dealer I bought it from on Friday and they will not touch it without a $150 diagnosis fee, not great value when they are 90 minute drive away. On Saturday a quick 10 minute run to the tip with a trailer on the back and the temperature started rising while waiting to go through the weighbridge.It got back ok (up a steep hill) but then I let it idle for a few minutes and up it went again (and I got a video). Yesterday I tried to replicate it without the trailer and it was fine when idling. The rpm increased slightly as the fan kicked in but I can't be 100% that this was happening on the 2 occasions it has overheated at idle. Possible dodgy thermostat? Is that covered under the 10 year powertrain because the dealer tells me it only covers ''certain things'' ie. only the stuff they can't get away with charging for!
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  #43  
Old 08-03-19
Michaelj15 Michaelj15 is offline
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Hi Everyone,
Thought i would post an update.
After having coolant sensor changed still same problem and overheating. A few more sensors were changed, still same problem... Eventually MMA replaced the engine, saying it was faulty... gave it a month then it started overheating! Last year the challenger spent about 10 weeks in the garage. After this i spoke to MMA and told them i had a lemon, they agreed and offered to give me a new pajero sport. So overall ok outcome, shame tho as i loved my challenger. I hope no-one else has these same issues not fun, but credit to MMA on the replacement. Ill be heading over to the PS forum - thanks to all for your help along the way. Cheers,
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  #44  
Old 09-03-19
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That is an outstanding outcome mate, hope you enjoy the new vehicle, itís a lot better in respect to the engine gearbox matching set up I believe.
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  #45  
Old 09-03-19
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Originally Posted by Michaelj15 View Post
Hi Everyone,
Thought i would post an update.
After having coolant sensor changed still same problem and overheating. A few more sensors were changed, still same problem... Eventually MMA replaced the engine, saying it was faulty... gave it a month then it started overheating! Last year the challenger spent about 10 weeks in the garage. After this i spoke to MMA and told them i had a lemon, they agreed and offered to give me a new pajero sport. So overall ok outcome, shame tho as i loved my challenger. I hope no-one else has these same issues not fun, but credit to MMA on the replacement. Ill be heading over to the PS forum - thanks to all for your help along the way. Cheers,



Thats an excellent outcome. Just a pity you didnt get the Pajero and instead the sport.
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  #46  
Old 13-04-19
Bendigo Challenger Bendigo Challenger is offline
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Hello everyone, we own a 2011 challenger and on why home from Melbourne on fwy , noted the engine light come on and the temperature way up in the boiling zone .
Over we pulled , the overflow bottle vomiting everywhere....
I got on here straight away and read up on what goes on with a boiling challenger..

So we sat for half hr or so letting her cool down....
Fired her up , temp where is should be and engine light off ..
managed to get back home , just cruising on 100 with no other issues!!!!!!
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  #47  
Old 13-04-19
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old Jack old Jack is offline
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Ok before you jump to conclusions and think the worse there are a few simple things you can eliminate easily, before you start the round of dealer and non dealer mechanics.
The knowledge gained by doing the following yourself can save a lot of time, money and stress!

1. When engine is cool remove radiator cap and check coolant level is correct, if not top it up with the same coolant or distilled water if you are not 100% sure the coolant is identical. Top up the overflow bottle at the same time to the minimum mark.
2. Is the coolant clear or milky? A what colour is the engine oil, black or milky grey/brown?
3. Check the overflow hose from the radiator to the bottle, make sure there are no cracks in the hose and the hose is not loose where it attaches to the radiator and the overflow bottle.
4. Check and clean the underside of the radiator cap and the top of the radiator neck.
5. What pressure is the radiator cap marked xxxKPA?
6. With the radiator cap off, and the heater selected on, start the engine and allow the coolant to warm up so the thermostat is open (90C), this will bleed to coolant system of air bubbles. This is best done if the front wheels are on car ramps or are higher than the rear wheels.
7. Once the coolant is up to temperature, fit the radiator cap and then go for a good hard drive. If the engine does not overheat then allow it to cool overnight and check the overflow bottle level and record the level. If the level is low then top it up again to the minimum mark and repeat the drive/cool down test again.
8. When the engine is hot and running check the electric thermo fan is working when the AC is On and Off.
9. When the engine is hot, get someone to turn the engine off whist you look at the viscous fan and mak sure it stops within a revolution of when the engine stops. Once the engine has stopped and the ignition key is removed, try a turn the viscous fan by hand. It should be firm.
10. Keep a written detailed record of all test results and observations and post these.

Probably causes;

1. Overflow hose or the radiator cap are not sealing correctly and when the engine cools down then the coolant is not sucked back into the radiator so the engine gradually looses coolant as the overflow bottle fills up and overflow.
2. Faulty Thermostat can causes overheating.
3. Radiator core and cooling system "gelled" up by mixing coolants.
4. Radiator air channels blocked with slit/mud, this can be easily checked by placing a work light in the engine bay at night, closing the bonnet and then looking through the grille, you should see some light coming through the radiator, condenser and intercooler heat exchangers.
5. Viscous fan is not working correctly.
6. Electric thermo fan not working.
7. Head gasket blown.
8. Faulty head, replacement engine by MMAL.

OJ.
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Last edited by old Jack; 4 Weeks Ago at 03:31 AM. Reason: auto word spellcheck correction
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  #48  
Old 14-04-19
Bendigo Challenger Bendigo Challenger is offline
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Old Jack , thank you for that detailed reply!
It will help knowing all that basic knowledge..
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  #49  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Leons pb Leons pb is offline
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Hi guys on the subject of overheating, Iv had an ongoing issue with it and running out of options.

2010 pb 146,000km, bullbar, winch, spotlights,bash plates up front.
Platform roof rack, dual batteryís, LT265/70/17 AT tires, LRA 135L long range tank.
Donít think it could handle towing is current state but has towed previously.

Iv had coolant flush and pressure check by Mitsubishi, 127kpa cap on since Iíve owned it 20,000km Iím 2nd owner so not eligible for 10yr drivetrain warrenty

Never looses coolant just odd few splashes to show it got up a bit from overflow and radiator cap.

I have a scangauge which I watch religiously and back off if gets too hot.
2 times I have hit the warning CEL light on at approx 115į

Temp keeps rising if on steady incline even on a fairly flat highway.
It actually heats up quicker at high speeds than short sharp hills.

Temp drops just as quick once I ease off throttle so seems like radiator canít keep up with demand while loads on.

On slight hills it is common for temp to rise up to 95-105 with extended or steeper stuff continuing to raise it.
On short hills in hinterlands I can control the temp well with sport mode and automate keeping gears low and revs high.

I have installed forefront intercooler and piping, new coolant temp sensor, AUTOMATE
And still overheating.

I feel like new radiator thermostat and condenser is final chance to fix it before something worse happens, love the car but donít want to be constantly be worrying about the temp rising.

Whatís your thoughts OJ?
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  #50  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leons pb View Post
Hi guys on the subject of overheating, Iv had an ongoing issue with it and running out of options.
All you've listed that you've tried is coolant flush and pressure check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leons pb View Post
Whatís your thoughts OJ?
How many of the following options have been tested and eliminated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
1. Overflow hose or the radiator cap are not sealing correctly and when the engine cools down then the coolant is not sucked back into the radiator so the engine gradually looses coolant as the overflow bottle fills up and overflow.
2. Faulty Thermostat can causes overheating.
3. Radiator core and cooling system "gelled" up by mixing coolants.
4. Radiator air channels blocked with slit/mud, this can be easily checked by placing a work light in the engine bay at night, closing the bonnet and then looking through the grille, you should see some light coming through the radiator, condenser and intercooler heat exchangers.
5. Viscous fan is not working correctly.
6. Electric thermo fan not working.
7. Head gasket blown.
8. Faulty head, replacement engine by MMAL.

OJ.
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Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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