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Generation 4-1 Pajero NS Model 2006 - 2009

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  #1  
Old 02-08-18
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Default Rear axle shaft nut

Hey all just a bit of information and advice on what has just happened with my Pajero.

There's been plenty of threads and posts on hear about the common clunk when taking off or coming to a stand still etc with plenty saying its the rear axle shaft nuts coming slightly loose, especially passenger side. Read many people saying they took dust cap off and had a look and the split pin and lock nut hadn't or didn't look like they had moved.

So I had the dreaded clunk as described by many and though about time to get the nuts checked. Looked at both sides.......drivers side was to spec and all good. Passenger side.........took off the dust cap and looked, no visibly movement from split pin or the lock nut. Took split pin out, got 36mm socket on the nut and turned. Don't know what it was torqued too but safe to say it was hardly tight and I could undo it very easy. So torqued it back up, new split pin and test drive.........no clunk.

So bear in mind just taking the dust cap off and looking is definitely not sufficient to determine if the axle nuts are tight enough.

I now though do have another problem but will start another thread.

Cheers.
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Old 03-08-18
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The manual states you must have the wheel in the air when you tighten the nut and use the brakes to stop it from moving. Iím just wondering if this problem is cause by the wheel being on the ground when the nut is tightened. Just food for thought.

Geoff
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Old 03-08-18
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It may well be Geoff but sure someone may know. I've never checked mine but made sure it was tightened as per the manual, off ground etc.
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Previously
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92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
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Old 11-08-18
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Has anyone managed to tighten these nuts up and have them stay tight?

I've tried a couple of times and it lasts about a week before it's loosened off again.

Couple of points I've noticed:
The Mitsubishi workshop manual indicates that these nuts are a single-use fastener, to be replaced with a new one each time they are removed. This suggests torque-to-yield.

Different references vary, but the lowest torque spec I've seen for a 4.6 grade M24 fastener is 275Nm - a bit more than the 220Nm that Mitsubishi states.
Safe to assume the nut and driveshaft are made of stronger stuff than 4.6 grade fasteners.

I need to have another look at the assembly, but the workshop manual states that the nut needs to be tightened without the weight of the vehicle on the hub/bearing assembly.
This suggests it plays a part in bearing pre-load, which would mean that either the nut or the face of the driveshaft are being tightened against a bearing race.

The cutaway diagrams in the workshop manual of the hub/bearing assembly do not show anything being pressed or tightened against either bearing race.

I've tried cleaning the threads and a dose of Loctite 263 but that still hasn't helped.

Mitsubishi really dropped the ball on this one. I do wonder if it would be better having a second nut working as a jam nut against the first, each torqued to >250Nm - but I'm not confident to try as it would eliminate the split pin and there would be nothing to stop the whole thing coming loose (except hopefully the jam-nut).
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Old 11-08-18
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How can the nut come loose if there is a split pin fitted?
How is the torque lost?


OJ.
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Old 11-08-18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
How can the nut come loose if there is a split pin fitted?
How is the torque lost?


OJ.
The split pin only stops it coming any further loose.
When fitted correctly, there is a small amount of play between the axle cap and split pin.
The nut is able to come loose until it takes up the play between the axle cap and split pin and is then hard up against them.
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Old 11-08-18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpanishForWhat? View Post
The split pin only stops it coming any further loose.
When fitted correctly, there is a small amount of play between the axle cap and split pin.
The nut is able to come loose until it takes up the play between the axle cap and split pin and is then hard up against them.
Once the hub is torqued to 220 +/-10 Nm then the axle nut cap is fitted to the best location for the split pin, if the split pin hole is not aligned then index the nut cap one notch at a time until you achieve the best alignment. The split pin diameter should be the same as the hole in the axle. Any minor movement of the nut cap should not effect the torque to any great degree if the nut cap is fitted correctly.

OJ.
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Old 18-08-18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
Once the hub is torqued to 220 +/-10 Nm then the axle nut cap is fitted to the best location for the split pin, if the split pin hole is not aligned then index the nut cap one notch at a time until you achieve the best alignment. The split pin diameter should be the same as the hole in the axle. Any minor movement of the nut cap should not effect the torque to any great degree if the nut cap is fitted correctly.

OJ.
Yep, that's the exact procedure I've followed a few times now.

The nut cap doesn't affect the torque of the nut. The nut eventually comes loose just enough to reduce the clamping force, but only loosens off as far as the axle cap and split pin will allow.

The reduced clamping force allows enough play between the axle shaft and the hub that a "clunk" is heard and felt through the driveline whenever there is a sudden change in torque on the driveline (on/off throttle).

This is clear when removing the hub cap, because the axle cap and split pin no longer have any free movement as the nut is hard against them.

I'm not the only person that has experienced this. There are a number of threads on this issue in the forum.

Minor update for anyone interested: I can't recommend the use of Loctite, as there was no apparent improvement to holding the nut to torque, and it just makes it harder to fit a new nut.

I fitted a new nut and torqued it to 240Nm (once I'd cleaned enough old Loctite off of the threads on the axle shaft of course). Still a bit early to declare whether it's holding, but I imagine it will work loose over the next few weeks.
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Old 18-08-18
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My nt has just over 200k on it .I have a slight clunk that i only feel/hear when i release the throttle .One mitsi dealer recomend that i replace the rear diff bushes as they had "worn out".Another(the one which i normally go to) said that whilst they show signs of being tired they are not worn out yet.I mentioned the axle nuts to them .I got no response aprt from a quizzacal look.
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Old 18-08-18
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My vehicle is a Gen 3 Ė not a Gen 4, but I wouldnít think there would be a difference. Iíve removed all four of my hubs on several occasions and have never experienced the problem you are describing. Each time Iíve had to undo the nut Iíve had to use a rattle gun as itís been as tight as buggery. When I do it up, I have the wheel off the ground and get the wife to put her foot on the brake. I torque it up to just under 200nM, as that is as high as my torque wrench goes, then use a 1mt. breaker-bar to move the nut to the next spot that lines up for the split pin.

My impression of having to have the wheel off the ground, is that if the wheel has weight on it, it might not sit exactly true with the axle and you could therefore get a false torque reading as you are tightening against the weight of the vehicle Ė if you see what I mean.

Cheers

Geoff
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