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Generation 4-1 Pajero NS Model 2006 - 2009

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  #11  
Old 21-03-17
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Thanks kiwi for the reply I'm yet to fully investigate if they are really shot got a friend that is dying to try his makita reciprocating saw thou
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  #12  
Old 21-03-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trisome View Post
Make sure you use the standard bushes, I put the nolathane bushes as I do a bit of towing.....big mistake. I had to hand out ear plugs for anyone in the 4B, and eventually changed them back to the rubber ones.

Trisome
What brand did u use? I was about to get nolathane rear kit bushes off ebay. Just bought one of those busy remover install kits
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NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
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  #13  
Old 22-03-17
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Go easy with the reciprocating saw. They're pretty powerful and if you get too trigger happy you could find you've cut through more than the outer shell of the bush.

As I go about replacing bushes I use rubber as much as possible, not nolathane/polyurethane equivalents. Everyone you speak to has different ideas about this, but there is a train of thought that the suppleness inherent with rubber bushes (i.e. which guys who fit nolathane to their street cars are eager to eliminate) is actually beneficial to a 4wd vehicle. Nolathane may potentially be longer lasting, but most Pajero's won't need rubber bushes replaced much before about 200,000km's intervals - that's durable enough for me.
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  #14  
Old 23-03-17
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Thanks mate, had a quick look yesterday they seem ok to me seems that rubber is sort of compressed at the bottom. I'll need to get someone to shift between reverse and drive and see if there's excess movement
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NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
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  #15  
Old 23-03-17
Trisome Trisome is offline
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Can't remember the name of them, however I remember the noise.

Trisome
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  #16  
Old 24-03-17
draganlada draganlada is offline
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Recently my front suspension arms bushes were replaced with superpro ones as my mechanic could not find supplier for rubber ones ( mitsubishi is selling complete arm only at $ 500- each) Now I'm not happy with the ride,to stiff,road noise increased,steering to sensitive and car feels anything front tyre touches ...
It cost me $ 900- supplied and fitted but if I can source new rubber bushes I'll change them over to get my conffy ride back again.
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  #17  
Old 24-03-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draganlada View Post
Recently my front suspension arms bushes were replaced with superpro ones as my mechanic could not find supplier for rubber ones ( mitsubishi is selling complete arm only at $ 500- each) Now I'm not happy with the ride,to stiff,road noise increased,steering to sensitive and car feels anything front tyre touches ...
It cost me $ 900- supplied and fitted but if I can source new rubber bushes I'll change them over to get my conffy ride back again.
Whilst it's quite right to look for alternatives to Mitsubishi's complete arm's at $500 each, it's not remotely credible that the mechanic couldn't find a supplier for aftermarket rubber bushes to fit. I'm not at all doubting you were told that, just that your mechanic surely had other reasons/incentives for not tracking down some rubber bushes, which would have been readily available from a number of suppliers. It may have been he couldn't be bothered taking precise measurements in order to identify a match, or perhaps he simply gets a fatter margin on the more expensive superpro product.
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2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.
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  #18  
Old 25-03-17
tommo123 tommo123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draganlada View Post
my mechanic could not find supplier for rubber ones .
Febest sell rubber bushs via ebay. Good prices too.
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  #19  
Old 19-10-17
talltim40 talltim40 is offline
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Any ideas or tips on removing the rear drive shaft from the Diff? I've undone all the bolts but shes not budging!
Does it help to have the car lifted off the ground to spin the shaft at all? Driving me nuts!
Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers
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  #20  
Old 19-10-17
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Have you taken all bolts off for sure? I think there may be 6 or more. We're are talking about the rear prop shaft?
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NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
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