King springs part numbers

[old Jack]

The KCRS-23 is originally designed for a Gen 2 Pajero and these have the fuel tank centred behind the rear diff but the spare tyre is mounted on the rear door and is offset to the right and since the driver is also on the right side, the longer coil goes to the right.

Pajero Sport and the Challenger both have the fuel tanks on the left hand side.
If the vehicle is stock then I would be fitting to the longer coil to the left hand side.

If however there was extra fixed weight in the righthand side of the cargo area (fridge, aux battery, single drawer) then I would fit the longer coil on the right.

OJ.

[orthodoxs]

The KCRS-23 is originally designed for a Gen 2 Pajero and these have the fuel tank centred behind the rear diff but the spare tyre is mounted on the rear door and is offset to the right and since the driver is also on the right side, the longer coil goes to the right.

Pajero Sport and the Challenger both have the fuel tanks on the left hand side.
If the vehicle is stock then I would be fitting to the longer coil to the left hand side.

If however there was extra fixed weight in the righthand side of the cargo area (fridge, aux battery, single drawer) then I would fit the longer coil on the right.

OJ.

Aha! Now I see the light. My PS is Stock except for the HR Tow bar which is symmetrical anyway, so the right goes to left.

[orthodoxs]

Pedders is not happy with the plan, they are suggesting Pedders linear coils and peddars air bags ($905 Fitted) or that i get the coils and fit it somewhere else. Says neither the KCRS 23 nor the peddars 5899 are meant to be fitted on the PS. The franchise says he owns a pajero sport and knows what he is talking about.

[nj swb]

Pedders is not happy with the plan, they are suggesting Pedders linear coils and peddars air bags ($905 Fitted) or that i get the coils and fit it somewhere else. Says neither the KCRS 23 nor the peddars 5899 are meant to be fitted on the PS. The franchise says he owns a pajero sport and knows what he is talking about.

Franchise owner? Is he an engineer, or a salesman?

He works for Pedders, of course he wants to sell Pedders springs. On this topic, I'll back OJ all the way.

[crimespree]

I fitted mine opposite sides to the labels.

[old Jack]

Pedders is not happy with the plan, they are suggesting Pedders linear coils and peddars air bags ($905 Fitted) or that i get the coils and fit it somewhere else. Says neither the KCRS 23 nor the peddars 5899 are meant to be fitted on the PS. The franchise says he owns a pajero sport and knows what he is talking about.

The fitting of King KCRS-23 with Peddar 5899 cones has been a well tested and proven rear suspension upgrade especially for those that tow and and carry a little weight in the rear cargo area, and keep the front suspension standard. The KCRS-23 is also good for loads from empty to about 250kg-300kgs, these are a progressive rate coil that provides comfort and load carrying ability well beyond a linear rate coil. The 5899 rubber cone springs provide extra spring rate on deep compression and protect the coils from overloading.

There a dozens of Challenger and Pajero Sport owners that have fitted these and would have clocked up in excess of 1 million kms over the last 5+ years. If this mod did not work then we would hear about it. For those with higher rear loads there are KCRR-23 and KCRR-23HD coils.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=59482

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=45233

KCRS-23 coils will be about $220 a pair, 5899 cones about $125 and about 1-1.5 hours labour to fit for a reasonably skilled mechanic so the the job will cost about $500 all up. The result will be better and more reliable than any linear rate coils and airbag combination.

OJ.

[bige]

king springs catalogue says to use KCRR-38 rear spring ?

[old Jack]

king springs catalogue says to use KCRR-38 rear spring ?

King Data;
KCRS-23 free length 375mm spring rate 3.0385kg/mm to 4.018kg/mm progressive.
KCRR-33 free length 395mm spring rate 2.411kg/mm to 4.107kg/mm progressive.
KCRR-38 free length 400mm spring rate 2.411kg/mm to 4.107kg/mm progressive.
KCRR-23HD free length 395mm spring rate 3.661kg/mm to 5.179kg/mm progressive.

If the rate of progression is identical, a pair KCRS-23 will carry about 50kg more and ride about 10% firmer than a pair of KCRR-38 for the same ride height in the normal resting ride height range.
I fitted KCRS-23 to the rear of my Challenger as interim coil whilst I was building the rear storage system, fridge slide and aux battery setup. The KCRS-23 were a huge improvement on the factory coils and carried weights up to 250-300kg well. With about 200kg in the cargo area and a 120kg ball weight with no WDH, combined with standard front coils the setup rode well and retained reasonable ride heights. However these coils where not suitable for remote outback touring with GVM+150kg loads.
The KCRR-33 is in between the KCRS-23 and the KCRR-38, there is very little difference between all 3 coils according to my calculations but I have not fitted all 3 coils the same Pajero Sport to see what the real life difference is.

Just the difference in weight behind the rear axle of the 6th and 7th seat will effect the ride height.

OJ.

[orthodoxs]

The fitting of King KCRS-23 with Peddar 5899 cones has been a well tested and proven rear suspension upgrade especially for those that tow and and carry a little weight in the rear cargo area, and keep the front suspension standard. The KCRS-23 is also good for loads from empty to about 250kg-300kgs, these are a progressive rate coil that provides comfort and load carrying ability well beyond a linear rate coil. The 5899 rubber cone springs provide extra spring rate on deep compression and protect the coils from overloading.

There a dozens of Challenger and Pajero Sport owners that have fitted these and would have clocked up in excess of 1 million kms over the last 5+ years. If this mod did not work then we would hear about it. For those with higher rear loads there are KCRR-23 and KCRR-23HD coils.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=59482

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=45233

KCRS-23 coils will be about $220 a pair, 5899 cones about $125 and about 1-1.5 hours labour to fit for a reasonably skilled mechanic so the the job will cost about $500 all up. The result will be better and more reliable than any linear rate coils and airbag combination.

OJ.

Thank you for your time and info OJ, I went to Bursons Darwin who said they could order the KCRS 23 for $385 Each with 2 weeks of waiting, I thought this was at a premium after reading one of your earlier posts.
There is a eBay bulk retailer who is selling a pair at a very competitive rate,

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/King-Of-Springs-PAJERO-Rear-Standard-Coils-KCRS-23/283485723211?hash=item420110da4b:g:nFgAAOSwFytaMjrr

Are they the same?
Have to go back to Peddars Darwin to order their 5899 cones for $65 each.
Fitting these is not rocket science but I don't fancy spending more money on a pair of spring pullers and heavy duty tripoid stands.

[old Jack]

Thank you for your time and info OJ, I went to Bursons Darwin who said they could order the KCRS 23 for $385 Each with 2 weeks of waiting, I thought this was at a premium after reading one of your earlier posts.
There is a eBay bulk retailer who is selling a pair at a very competitive rate,

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/King-Of-Springs-PAJERO-Rear-Standard-Coils-KCRS-23/283485723211?hash=item420110da4b:g:nFgAAOSwFytaMjrr

Are they the same?
Have to go back to Peddars Darwin to order their 5899 cones for $65 each.
Fitting these is not rocket science but I don't fancy spending more money on a pair of spring pullers and heavy duty tripoid stands.

Yes they look like the same coil, $179 a pair is a good price, my trade price through Repco is around the $150 a pair. Peddars 5899 retail for $125 a pair ($90 Trade).

I no longer use spring compressors to change rear coils as these are time consuming and dangerous.
Below is the method I use, you need a trolley jack, factory hydraulic or a small screw jack, a tall axle stand, torque wrench, combination spanners, socket set, club hammer and a rattle gun (optional). You do need to be an experienced home mechanic as a minimum to do this job.

1. Do one side at a time as it is safer. Loosen wheel nuts and lower shocker bolt. Lower shocker bolt is very tight so a rattle gun makes undoing this bolt quicker and easier, note the nut is welded to the lower mount so undo from the bolt head. Or use 2 combination spanners linked together to make a longer ring spanner, use ring end on bolt head and a club hammer to give the spanner handle a good hit to loosen the bolt.

2. Jack wheel from outboard axle area of diff housing, clear off the ground by about 100mm, you require this height do not skimp on this. Insert axle stand under chassis rail just forward of the trailing arm, not under axle/diff housing. If axle stand is not tall enough then you may need some wooden planks under the axle stand base.
Remove wheel and place flat on ground under chassis rail just forward of axle stand as an extra safety measure.

3. Lower trolley jack until suspension is at full droop, unbolt brake line clips from chassis and axle housing, this should provide the extra slack when you move the trailing arm lower. Leave the trolley jack in position.

4. Remove the axle articulation bumpstop completely, then remove the lower shocker bolt. Remove the centre bolt that attaches the factory rubber cone spring and let the cone spring sit loose within the coil, use a socket and 6" extentsion. Lower the trolley jack completely and the trailing arm will lower further, leave trolley jack in position but with the release control open.

5. Place the factory hydraulic jack or screw jack between the chassis a trailing arm, just forward of the lower shocker mount. Jack the trailing arm away from the chassis, carefully ensuring the brake line is not over stretched. Only do this enough so the coil is loose and can be removed from the wheel arch side.

6. Place 5899 cone, with attaching bolt and washer fitted, inside new coil and fit coil, ensuring there is a 10mm gap between the end of the coil wire and the recess in the lower spring pad. Bolt in cone. Remove jack from between chassis and trailing arm and reverse above procedure for assembly. Using trolley jack, slowly jack the trailing arm up ensuring coil is positioned correctly, until the lower shocker mount is aligned so bolt can be refitted. The rest of the reassembly is straight forward.

7. Do not tighten lower shocker bolt until weight of vehicle is back on the wheel.

The whole process can take as little as 20 minutes a side with practice, but first time around allow about 45 to 60 minutes per side for a competent home mechanic.

OJ.

[Kingbrown]

OJ,

Do you see any benefit or need to loosen the front bolt of the trailing arm or the panhard rod mountings ?

Just thinking that the associated bushes might be stressed or torn if they are pushed beyond their normal limits of travel.

[old Jack]

OJ,

Do you see any benefit or need to loosen the front bolt of the trailing arm or the panhard rod mountings ?

Just thinking that the associated bushes might be stressed or torn if they are pushed beyond their normal limits of travel.

Good point Kingbrown, I hadn't thought of this but yes it would be a good idea for the sake of a few extra minutes work.
The King KCRS-23 have a free length of 375mm (average) and the factory coils are 380mm free length. From my multiple coils changes the extra angular travel required from the trailing arm is minimal and you can flex the axle down easily with your foot. I use a jack as it is more controlled.

For interest the factory coils have a free length of 380mm and a spring rate of 2.362 to 3.543kg/mm.

When I fitted the Lovells EHDVR coils I had to also spring compressors as the suspension would not droop sufficently enough to insert the coils without disconnecting the brake lines from the calipers. The EHDVR have a free length of 415mm and a spring rate of 3.923 to 5.893 kg/mm!

The longest free length coil that I know of is a Dobinson C43-203 with a free length of 425mm and a very light spring rate of 2.702kg/mm.

OJ.

[Sean11]

Front Springs

I have fitted the KCRS-23 and peddles cone springs and made a big difference towing the 2t camper. Looking to get baseplates and bull bar in the next few months, and want to upgrade the stock front springs to HD springs... can anyone recommend the right spring, and part numbers? Not looking for a lift, just to eliminate the sag under extra weight

[old Jack]

I have fitted the KCRS-23 and peddles cone springs and made a big difference towing the 2t camper. Looking to get baseplates and bull bar in the next few months, and want to upgrade the stock front springs to HD springs... can anyone recommend the right spring, and part numbers? Not looking for a lift, just to eliminate the sag under extra weight

Hi Sean,

Glad to hear you are happy with the KCRS-23 and 5899 cones, I am yet to see or receive a bad report about this upgrade.
Did you also change rear shockers or are these original?

Front suspension, is much more difficult to get correct as the independent suspension design is very sensitive to change in coil free length and spring rates.
Best to wait until you have fitted your bullbar and bash plates before changing front coils.
I strongly suggest you change the front struts at the same time as the coils and do the rear shockers at the same time if you have not already done them.

Measure and record your front and rear ride heights before and after adding your bar and bash plates. After fitting the bar and bash plates then also weigh the front axle, so we can look at which coils will give you the best result for your application.

OJ.

[dragonjon]

Hey jack i have done the spring and cone upgrade you recommend ,car is coming up to 5 years old soon can you recommend best standard length after mark front and rear shock upgrade?