Have had my NT for about 12 months and I cnn't believe how terrible the placement of the tow-bar/ball is. Does anyone else have this issue where they can't remove a trailer without opening the door and/or removing the spare wheel? My NP which I had for about 5 years never has this issue because it was offset. How has Mitsi gotten away with this???
Below Nav Bar
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Hate my NT pajero tow bar!
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It is great to have a different type of coupling for your caravan or trailer, but when you are asked to tow another trailer, you are back to square one. S simple solution is to lift the spare wheel with a kit (about $50 off EBay) and then you have total flexibility. I haven't done that mod with my Pajero and when I do tow a trailer for someone else it is a real pain.
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Strange??? Most people have a problem opening the back door when a trailer is connected, but you're saying you need to open the door to remove a trailer? Can you post a photo.Warren
2012 NW DiD Activ - Retired
2023 Nissan Y62 Patrol Ti
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Originally posted by 2bad4u View PostStrange??? Most people have a problem opening the back door when a trailer is connected, but you're saying you need to open the door to remove a trailer? Can you post a photo.
Either way and based on the other members posts this is an example of terrible design on a so-called towing vehicle.
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Originally posted by bennyb29 View PostThey have an accessory to lift the spare wheel within the wheel cover, so it sits higher.
That is how they made amends, and got away with it.
Does anyone have a manufacturer they'd recommend for this lift kit or are they pretty much the same????
Cheers
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Originally posted by Tronic72 View PostGood to see there's companies making up for Mitsubishi's poor design.
Does anyone have a manufacturer they'd recommend for this lift kit or are they pretty much the same????
James2014 NW VR-X, with a few modifications and an Automate fitted Driving Pajero number three.
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Originally posted by Tronic72 View PostGood to see there's companies making up for Mitsubishi's poor design.
Does anyone have a manufacturer they'd recommend for this lift kit or are they pretty much the same????
Cheers
I have an OEM wheel lift kit brand new never used in the box for sale $50. Trouble is I'm in Sydney.
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Originally posted by jkwpajero View PostThe placement of the spare wheel came about through the need for the rear lights to conform with ADR's, so not all of it is due to poor design. The Gen 3 rear door had the wheel in the right place in my view, but some of the rear lights were dummies and others were added to comply. Like the Patrols.Mitsubishi Pajero NT Platinum 2010
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Centrally mounted spare wheel also allows better rear visibility.....in theory.......due to the lower mounting.
I cut and shut my shut my spare wheel mount to lift it about 30mm without the wheel getting gettimg moved rearward slightly as happens with the factory wheel lift.
The only issue I have is with the spare wheel hittling on the handle for the hand brake handle (with hydraulic brake reservoir also,in the way sometimes dependant on parking angle.
I don't have any issues getting trailer on and off standard ball type coupling with upright D handle. In fact I thnk the handle is rearward of the spare tyre.
Have you got the tow ball mounted on the original mount, or is it a shorter version, which brings the ball closer to the rear bumper?PCOV Member 1107.
Daily driver NX GLX
Semi retired NL GLS 3.5 (no airbags) in almost prestine condition to replace NJ.
Virtually fully retired NJ 2.8TD
Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB.
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I've solved the issue by fitting an Al-Ko drop-on pin hitch and the MM spare wheel raiser kit. It would have been simpler to use an extended towbar tongue (the one that comes with the MM towbar is pretty long but I prefer to keep the ball/pin as close to the towbar as possible).
If I need to tow the box trailer, I use the original MM tongue with the standard towball - plus the hitch on a box trailer is smaller than on a heavier trailer such as a caravan or boat trailer and doesn't really present much of a problem.
Of course when I had the NM for 15 years, there was no such problem because its wheel wasn't centred on the door!Last edited by gaz1; 10-02-20, 03:47 PM.2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.
Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.
My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.
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Originally posted by Tronic72 View PostThe bottom of the tire hits the top of the trailer hitch so it can't be lifted to allow the ball to be inserted. Once the hitch is on the ball, the door can be closed ....clear as mud?
Either way and based on the other members posts this is an example of terrible design on a so-called towing vehicle.
I do realise the longer the more leverageMitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table
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AL-KO Off Road Coupling
Hi, AL-KO have a low profile coupling that will do the trick and it uses a standard 50 mm ball unlike some others with pins etc. If not for you the DO-35V2 works as well and even if handbrake is on, the back door will still clear it. I use the DO-35 as the al-ko was not invented back then. I also could not use the spare wheel lift kit as I run 33 inch wheels even on spare and it is a tight fit in the spare carrier.
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