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General Info Pros and cons of different makes and models (incl. international)

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Old 13-12-17
Pauly Pauly is offline
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Default NS or NT pajero

Hi Guys,

I've decided it's time to upgrade from the old NJ to a newer model diesel. Looking at an NS or NT and just wondering if there are any major differences between the two. The same money will get an NS with low km's or an NT with mid km's so just wondering if there is an advantage to go for the NT. Also what point is the major service due on them, is it around 100,000kms?

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Pauly
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Old 13-12-17
Seigried Seigried is offline
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If your after a diesel the manual NS has no dpf. Unsure if the same goes for the manual NT.

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Old 13-12-17
MELONHEAD MELONHEAD is offline
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Go for the NT every time. If buying an auto, the NS has DPF where NT does not (except early 2009 NT with passive DPF). If buying manual, the NS has a dual mass flywheel where the NT does not. This means a 2010 model or newer NT will have no DPF and no dual mass flywheel. As far as I am concerned these two reasons are more than enough to skip the NS and go for a 2010 + model NT. I just recently upgraded my NL to an NT and this is the criteria I used. The only NS I would consider would have the DPF delete done if an auto, and a solid flywheel conversion if a manual.
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Last edited by MELONHEAD; 13-12-17 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 13-12-17
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0415discog 0415discog is offline
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I think the first major service is at 90k. Better transmission in the NT as well. It has the aisin as opposed to the Jatco in the NS. Slightly more power and torque in the NT onwards too. NS I think had about 128kw and 420Nm (or about that if I am wrong) whereas the NT onwards has 147kw and 450Nm I think. For these reasons as well as the dual mass flywheel, and NS DPF issues, I'd never chose a NS over a NT.
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Old 13-12-17
Pauly Pauly is offline
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Thanks guys, great info
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Old 13-12-17
Pauly Pauly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MELONHEAD View Post
Go for the NT every time. If buying an auto, the NS has DPF where NT does not (except early 2009 NT with passive DPF). If buying manual, the NS has a dual mass flywheel where the NT does not. This means a 2010 model or newer NT will have no DPF and no dual mass flywheel. As far as I am concerned these two reasons are more than enough to skip the NS and go for a 2010 + model NT. I just recently upgraded my NL to an NT and this is the criteria I used. The only NS I would consider would have the DPF delete done if an auto, and a solid flywheel conversion if a manual.
Is there a way to tell if a 2009 NT has the passive DPF fitted? I've found a nice VRX but it's a 2009 NT so might be worth checking out. Also, how much trouble does the passive DPF cause compared to the NS's DPF?
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Old 13-12-17
Seigried Seigried is offline
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My NS has a smf fitted. Its about $1100 in parts plus labour to convert from dual to single mass. I think the key here is to ask any seller if they know and be aware of the cost if they lied.

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Old 13-12-17
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My NT has the passive (or "open") Dpf, and it has zero issues. No sensors to worry about, or burn-offs to trigger. Apparently it's very much like a catalytic converter.
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Old 13-12-17
MELONHEAD MELONHEAD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauly View Post
Is there a way to tell if a 2009 NT has the passive DPF fitted? I've found a nice VRX but it's a 2009 NT so might be worth checking out. Also, how much trouble does the passive DPF cause compared to the NS's DPF?
Check the owners handbook to see if it mentions anything about DPF. If not, no DPF fitted. Also check the exhaust system to see if there is a large heavily heat shielded cylindrical box in the area under the car below the passenger seat, or just a straight exhaust section.

As nj swb said, there are very few troubles with the passive DPF, but I think you may still need to use special low ash engine oil with the DPF. Can someone confirm this? Without DPF low ash oil is not required.
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1998 NL GLS V6 auto LWB with ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, ALDI 9500lb winch, ARB onboard compressor, Hankook Dynapro AT/M 265/70/16s.
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