Retrofitting Factory rear diff lock

[nj swb]

Sorry to be a pain, but is there a seperate transfer for the ECU in the NT? I’m figuring it’s a bit hard for the front switch to tell the ECU anything hint if I don’t have one... thanks again.

Yes, your NT definitely has a separate ECU for the transfer. That diagram is for a 2009 model, which is the year of my NT.

[El_Freddo]

@RockRock - did you compare the drive shafts to see what’s different? I’m keen to know what the exact difference is in the driveshaft that’s apparently shorter.

What I’ve found looking at part numbers on partsouq:

• NP/NS/NT diff housing is the same open or locked

• diff output shaft oil seals are the same part numbers

• outer hub is the same part number for NP and NS

• only left and right hand side part numbers are listed for the NS and NT -
  No specific driveshaft for the locker is listed anywhere that I can find

So really the only thing that could be different is the spline on the internals of the locker that engage with the driveshaft, I can’t confirm this, but I also can’t find a specific part number for a different driveshaft that’s specific to the locker.

Anyone able to actually confirm the driveshaft is different and possibly provide a part number?

Cheers

Bennie

[RockRock]

Yes the driver shaft for the diff with the locker is different. I took them off at a friends garage and left them there. From memory the axles for the locker were slightly wider in diameter. Sorry I don’t have part numbers as I got the diff and axels together from the wreckers.
Sorry I can’t be more help.

[El_Freddo]

Thanks RockRock. That description at least gives me a bit of a lead to follow.

Cheers

Bennie

[RockRock]

Hi,

I'm not sure if this has been covered before or not, if it has I'm happy to simply be directed to the previous thread.

Can you retrofit the Mitsubishi rear diff lock into a Pajero that wasn't delivered with one? In my case I have a base model NT, negative rear diff lock and am just curious if it is possible (in the first instance) and feasible, additionally I wouldn't mind knowing how much of a dick around it would be to give it that factory capability.

Cheers in advance.

Thanks RockRock. That description at least gives me a bit of a lead to follow.

Cheers

Bennie

Heh Bennie, just chatted with my mate where I pulled the old diff and axels out. The axels for the locker diff were slightly shorter. We were chatting about this, probably so they can interact with the locker mechanism. Hope that's a little more helpful for what to look for.

[RockRock]

Yes, your NT definitely has a separate ECU for the transfer. That diagram is for a 2009 model, which is the year of my NT.

So I am trying to find one of the ECU transfer units. just wondering, do you know where they are located in the car and do you know exactly what they are called or where I could get a part number?
thanks again.

[PAJ30]

Ok here are the facts.

1. Yes you can and it is easy, better then buying and ARB diff lock (not including the air compressor)

1. You will need the Diff and both Tail shafts. I went from a NW to an NS Gen 4 and thought that only the drivers side needed replacing but I had both shafts just in case

1. When you are under the donor vehicle grab the little air compressor sits directly above the diff and the wiring loom

1. Put aside a good day for the change over, you will only need to take off one side and a hub nut off the other but take it all off to make it easier on yourself

1. Pull the diff out and take the hub nut off the other side saft and pull out

1. Assemble it all back togther

P.S. Currently I am doing a trigger wire through the orginal harness but not incorporating the Diff Lock ECU but I have an NS. NT and above have the Diff Lock ECU incorparatored in the Trasfer ECU.

[cruisn06]

So is the compressor just one that runs constant to hold 8 psi? so constant power would be fine?

[NJV6]

So is the compressor just one that runs constant to hold 8 psi? so constant power would be fine?

Correct.

[Doely]

Ok... I'm interested in doing this too. But mine is petrol NS.
Do U need the ecu??? Was hoping to get locker-centre, compressor and switch ... Then hard wire to compressor off a fuse somewhere (10amp???)... Otherwise it's all just nuts and bolts???

Basically is the ecu necessary???

[BruceandBobbi]

Why not an E locker?

Drive in drive out and total cost could be the same.

[Doely]

Considered that. They are ok, but sometimes unlock if U roll backwards. Can take a few revolutions to engage. But it really is about cost too. If I could pick up oe components and fit up.myself. might get it in for 1k... Maybe less.

They make a huge difference off road. Particularly with the limited wheel travel of pajeros.

[nj swb]

Considered that. They are ok, but sometimes unlock if U roll backwards. Can take a few revolutions to engage.

Unlock, yes. A few revolutions? No. Another internet myth that refuses to die.

Watch this youtube video from Harrop showing what happens inside the diff during a change of direction: https://youtu.be/nT_H6rpd-Ck?t=102

Less than a quarter turn of a wheel before it re-locks - not "a few revolutions".

I'm not saying you should buy a E-Locker, but if you're going to rule it out then you should rule it out for the right reasons.

[Pwoffey]

I have the factory rear locker but have fitted a Harrop eLocker to the front. I have used the front locker quite often, never felt it fail to engage or slip out. Maybe that's because of the types of tracks I choose to drive (nothing too hairy) and, especially as it's a front locker, I always make the decision to engage before the climb begins. If it did slip out I haven't felt it and it would certainly not be even one revolution let alone several. It compares very favourably with the factory locker which in my NW often takes quite a while to make up its mind. Also, no potential complications of a compressor and hoses etc. Mate has put a rear eLocker on his Prado, he's also very pleased with its performance. No doubt there are advantages and disadvantages of each of the various types of lockers, but I think the eLocker is a very viable option if it's in your price range.

[Doely]

No doubt they are good. But 2.5k fitted, is too much for me.