300k Major service

[rykiel575]

G'day gents.

I recently bought a 2012 NW with 301k on the clock.
I think i might be one of the highest mileage NWs?

I have decided to do a major service,
So far ive only managed to do the cabin filter, air filter, oil filter, and oil (oil was a few thousand overdue)
I did a few pump and top ups of the power steering reservoir as well.

I have ordered a so called 'HBB motor' rebuild kit which looks like a aftermarket commutator with 2x new brushes to put in the existing core/stator. I will fully flush the brake fluid after that.

I have also ordered new dayco belts, gates tensioner pulley and water pump, genuine radiator lower and upper hoses with thermostat. I will do a flush and fill with Penrite 7 year OEM long life.

Have bought caltex front and rear diff oil, (CASTROL AXLE EPX 80W-90), transaxle (CASTROL MANUAL VMX-M 75W-85), and transmission oil (CASTROL TRANSMAX DEXRON®-VI MERCON® LV). I will probably do these fluids last.


I am now looking to order things to do the inlet manifold clean, and valve/tappet adjustment.
Can you guys please suggest some other things I should do or get while i'm there?

I was thinking of replacing the timing chain guide, and the timing chain tensioner, as well as getting the seal kit?

I have read that the injector lines should be replaced at the 5th time, so i will probably replace them next time as it's a big expense for me.

After the inlet manifold clean i was also going to install a catch can.

Will also investigate the EGR $1 resistor fix (will probably also wire a simple on/off switch in parallel to bypass the resistor if need be).

I think my mounts are going/gone as well as the shocks but that can be expected after 300k.

[Rnn_onmt]

Comprehensive list.
What about wheel bearings?

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[rykiel575]

Good idea

I will get the suspension place to check them out when they quote me.

Atm it has TJM shocks and springs (not sure about springs but they are yellow).

Do i just need to replace the shocks and not the springs as well?

[Rnn_onmt]

No way. I wouldn't. Do both to start with a clean slate. Check the spare tyre to see if is the same as the rest too.

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[Keithyv]

That's a lot of K's in a shortish time.
What's the history of the car - ex hire car or???

I'm worried, my NW has just hit 50,000

[rykiel575]

hehe.
well the guy i bought car car from said he bought it as an ex lease from a country realtor based in rural NSW>

[rykiel575]

I did the front and rear diffs, transaxle, and the transmission fluid yesterday. The oils looked reasonable but the transmission fluid was black. I drained from the oil cooler with engine running and stopped the car when it started to spatter. Went through 12L of the fluid and checked level with engine running through the check bolt.

Next time the fluid is due ill get it done at a specialist for dropping the pan and changing the filters. Will also ask them to change the rear mount as it comes off anyway to drop the pan.

I also noticed the oil level had risen on the dipstick and it has become very thin. I suspect diesel contamination (confirmed by this great forum as the injector lines being over tightened). I will change the lines now when i do the tappets as well as cleaning the inlet manifold.

There is a leak in the engine bay and i suspect it is caused by the oil/diesel mixing and passing through the seals/gaskets. When i got the car 2 weeks ago the engine oil level was also very high.

Any suggestions as to what to use to thicken the oil? The parts are probably 2 weeks away. Atm the level is about 10mm above the maximum indication.

[m_and_m]

Good thread and will be watching with interest.

[rykiel575]

thanks m & m.

I can't really contribute much at this stage but hopefully even the old timers will learn something new.

I've got a aftermarket commutator for the HBB on order, so when it arrives ill write up a report on it on here (as well as the condition of the brushes on the original before i swap it over).

I've also found a potentially great solvent mix to use on the inlet manifold which ill also put up here with pics when i get around to doing it in a few weeks.

[rykiel575]

I finally tracked down the right part numbers and ordered them.

(all price in USD, from partsouq)

Items
# Number Name Make Qty Qty Supplied Price
1 1140A026 GUIDE,TIMING CHAIN,UPR Mitsubishi 1 10.86$
2 MF140225 BOLT,ENG OIL PAN Mitsubishi 1 0.81$
3 ME193622 GASKET,TIMING CHAIN TRAIN Mitsubishi 1 0.94$
4 ME192209 GASKET,ROCKER COVER(*) Mitsubishi 1 16.88$
5 1052A099 OIL SEAL,ROCKER COVER Mitsubishi 4 6.86$
6 MN158385 OIL SEAL,ROCKER COVER Mitsubishi 4 6.86$
7 1450A147 GASKET,THROTTLE BODY Mitsubishi 1 8.89$
8 1141A045 TENSIONER,TIMING CHA Mitsubishi 1 43.62$
Item(s) Subtotal 136.88$
Shipping 14.42$
Total 151.30$

ended up being about $215AUD.

I also ordered the injector line set off ebay for $390 from an Australian seller.

Partsouq didnt sell the injector lines, and amayama told me the order would come early January due to the christmas shutdown. The price from amayama would have been $284.29, so about $100 cheaper. I figure i better get the injector lines fixed asap so i paid the extra $100 to get it sooner. Still, it was better than from the dealer. One dealer wanted $566 plus GST and the other wanted $682 + GST.

Here are the part numbers for anyone for future reference (would suggest to double check against your VIN).

Mitsubishi 1428A113 - PIPE, METAL
Mitsubishi 1428A114 - PIPE, METAL
Mitsubishi 1428A115 - PIPE, METAL
Mitsubishi 1428A116 - PIPE, METAL
Mitsubishi 1428A075 - PIPE, METAL

I'm not sure if the 5th one below (1428A075 -TUBE SET,FUEL INJECT ) needs to be replaced as im not sure if it needs to come off, but i ordered it anyway.

[Dicko1]

Sounds like you have some work ahead of you but there is no doubt...prevention is better than cure. Hope everything goes smoothly. Feel embarrassed with only 52,000klms on my 2014 NW....

[rykiel575]

Just an update guys..

Few things to note: best way to access the alternator pivot bolt is from underneath with two spanners for leverage.

Aftermarket armature for HBB motor arrived. Armature seems okay but brushes are low quality. Case pending on ebay (will probably just get the brushes locally).

Inlet manifold was filthy as was expected.

Valve tappets were all loose (which is probably better than being it tight).

Exhaust side from front to rear

Cyl 1:
0.1778mm 0.2032mm
Cyl 2
0.2032mm 0.1905mm
Cyl 3:
0.1778mm 0.2032mm
Cyl 4:
0.2286mm 0.2286mm

Intake side from front to rear.

Cyl 1:
0.127mm 0.127mm
Cyl 2:
0.127mm 0.127mm
Cyl 3:
0.1524mm 0.1524mm
Cyl 4:
0.1778mm 0.1524mm

Should be exhaust 0.15mm and intake 0.10mm.

Replaced the tensioner and the upper guide.
Upper guide is original (from 2012 with 301,000kms on it).
Seems the new revised upper guide has held up relatively well.

Im not sure when/if valve tappets were adjusted but they were considerably out.

Pics are here for the photos of armature and also the upper guide wear.

https://imgur.com/a/sN4m3iw