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Generation 4-4 Pajero NX model 2014 -

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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Default Nx Brake Bleed Procedure???????

Hopefully the new rotors and pads for the Paj turn up today (9 days quoted for delivery from Sparesbox. We are now at 3 weeks) and just wondering what the correct bleeding procedure will be once everything is fitted. I know you have to undo the bleed nipples whilst compressing the pistons back so you don't damage the ABS system.
Can I use my pneumatic bleeder or does it need to be done manually???
Cheers, Mike.
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There is a set procedure that uses the HBB with the engine running.
This procedure is detailed in the online Workshop Manual.

OJ.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
There is a set procedure that uses the HBB with the engine running.
This procedure is detailed in the online Workshop Manual.

OJ.
Clear as mud.

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...3/index_M1.htm
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
gazza11 gazza11 is offline
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With a vacuum tool I removed the fluid from the reservoir and filled it to the full line, then with key turned on vacuum bled the rear brakes. With key turned off then vacuumed bled the front brakes replenishing the reservoir when required. I used 3+ 500ml bottles of brake fluid. I used Castrol DOT4 fluid.
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pharb pharb is offline
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Quote:
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That just says to press piston back into caliper, just like you would with a basic brake system. No mention of having to relieve brake pressure by opening bleed screws.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
BruceandBobbi BruceandBobbi is offline
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Looks like they can be rebuilt in the USA.

https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dl...ooster-1882667
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Mundy55 Mundy55 is offline
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I haven't done a brake change (yet) on the Paj but on previous vehicles, the approach I was advised and used was to bleed the brake line nipple as you pushed the caliper piston. This prevented overflow of brake fluid in the reservoir and, more importantly, cleared the 'dead' brake fluid in the piston that doesn't get changed in a standard brake fluid changeover. You almost need 3 hands to do this but I tightened a parallel clamp around the pistons with one hand while releasing the bleed screw with the other, taking care not to let air back into the piston.
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Jasonmc73 Jasonmc73 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mundy55 View Post
I haven't done a brake change (yet) on the Paj but on previous vehicles, the approach I was advised and used was to bleed the brake line nipple as you pushed the caliper piston. This prevented overflow of brake fluid in the reservoir and, more importantly, cleared the 'dead' brake fluid in the piston that doesn't get changed in a standard brake fluid changeover. You almost need 3 hands to do this but I tightened a parallel clamp around the pistons with one hand while releasing the bleed screw with the other, taking care not to let air back into the piston.
Yeah mate that's how i've always changed pads meself
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DibbyDibbyDJ DibbyDibbyDJ is offline
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I have found on some Mitsi models that using vacuum bleed causes more trouble than its worth.



As for opening nipple when pushing back? Personally never bothered doing that,just being gentle with the pushing has always worked. Never blown a seal or cylinder in 36 years.


As for bleeding. Gravity is the method i always use. Again, never had a problem. Just fill reservoir to top, open nipple with pipe on the end to catch old fluid in a container and repeat. I do rears first, then fronts.



On a Paj you would need a minimum of 1 litre for full change and proper flush.
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Righto. Jobs done. Tried a couple of things whilst bleeding. Vac bleeding didn't realyy work on the Paj for one reason or another. Fronts I did manually and the rears were done with the key on and the pedal depressed whilst cracking the nipple and the HBB pump did the rest. Which by the way is pretty much how the manual states to do it.
Cheers for the input.
Mike.
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My15 NX. ARB Steel Bar. LED spots. Dobinson MRR lift. Outback Exhaust Fat Pipe. Intervolt DC Pro Dual Battery setup. Provent. SPi module. MM4X4 Lockup Mate, Paddle Mate & Paddle Shift. Mako 12,000 winch with Dyneema.



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