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Where the rubber hits the road. Discussion about drive train; (locking) diffs; wheels; hubs; suspension and, of course, tyres

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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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pajflareo pajflareo is offline
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Default Need Mitsubishi specific wheel nuts?

Picked up a set of 2nd hand Pajero Sport rims to swap out my NW GL Steelies.

Was hopeing to pick up 24 nuts from my local wheel shop - as I have done a few times before without drama.

Anyway I was advised that with these wheels I need to have special Mitsubishi nuts with flat washers/collars.

Mitsubishi want $11 per nut

See the photo for details.



The bloke at the shop said you can use other nuts but they just don't hold as well on these rims. He says Toyota and Mitsubishi do it nowadays on their 4x4 alloys and he showed me some he pulled off a land cruiser. He told me that they don't stock them and when they need they just order from MMA.

Anyone have any experience with this?

EDIT: In any event I think i will get this style of wheel nut, I have found a retailer that is about half the price of MMA

Last edited by pajflareo; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:19 PM.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
Ian H Ian H is offline
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I had to buy a set from MM when I bought my steels. The set that came with the alloys were different.

I think I paid $5/nut ($30/wheel) but can't be certain.
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Partsouq.com have them listed for around $1.74 plus postage.

Heres a pic.
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File Type: jpg Screenshot_20191115-094435_Samsung Internet.jpg (51.0 KB, 19 views)
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2008 NS X SWB DiD auto in cool silver, Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, MCC bull bar with Stedi Summit fog/DRL's, Airtec(TJM) snorkel.

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92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
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Partsouq.com have them listed for around $1.74 plus postage.

There's alsoa few listed on Ebay for sale, set of 12 for $66 for instance.

Heres a pic.
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2008 NS X SWB DiD auto in cool silver, Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, MCC bull bar with Stedi Summit fog/DRL's, Airtec(TJM) snorkel.

Previously
88 NF SWB 2.6 manual
92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
99 Cruiser 4.5 manual with all the fruit
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Or you could try Amayama.com
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2008 NS X SWB DiD auto in cool silver, Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, MCC bull bar with Stedi Summit fog/DRL's, Airtec(TJM) snorkel.

Previously
88 NF SWB 2.6 manual
92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
99 Cruiser 4.5 manual with all the fruit
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I think I have a heap of them here somewhere.
Where in Sydney are you located - you are welcome to them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSF View Post
I think I have a heap of them here somewhere.
Where in Sydney are you located - you are welcome to them.
Thanks MSF for your kind offer, and everyone else for their suggestions.

I got a set of 24 in black of an ebay seller "The Lug Nut King". Cost about $100 with express shipping. I ordered Thursday arvo and had them in hand Friday. Very happy with that.

The design is foreign to me. Without a taper I don't see how it self centres as you tighten them. In any event it was easy to get the wheel centred as it has the factory centre bore which holds the wheel in place before you even put the nuts on.
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spot01 spot01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pajflareo View Post
Thanks MSF for your kind offer, and everyone else for their suggestions.

I got a set of 24 in black of an ebay seller "The Lug Nut King". Cost about $100 with express shipping. I ordered Thursday arvo and had them in hand Friday. Very happy with that.

The design is foreign to me. Without a taper I don't see how it self centres as you tighten them. In any event it was easy to get the wheel centred as it has the factory centre bore which holds the wheel in place before you even put the nuts on.
The Paj wheels/hubs are designed to be a snug fit on the centre bore & this locates the wheel accurately, not the nuts. The centre bore carries the weight, not the studs. This is why it is important to only use wheels with the correct centre bore on these cars and not wheels from other cars with larger centre bores.

Check the nuts don't "bottom out" before the wheel is held tightly, as some after market nuts have different depths inside &/or outside, which can cause the wheel to be loose even though the nut feels tight.

Screw a nut on without a wheel & measure the space for the wheel is less than the thickness of the wheel.

Be sure to check the nut tension after a bit of driving, then again after about 100km.
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Last edited by spot01; 3 Weeks Ago at 08:11 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spot01 View Post
The Paj wheels/hubs are designed to be a snug fit on the centre bore & this locates the wheel accurately, not the nuts. The centre bore carries the weight, not the studs. This is why it is important to only use wheels with the correct centre bore on these cars and not wheels from other cars with larger centre bores.

Check the nuts don't "bottom out" before the wheel is held tightly, as some after market nuts have different depths inside &/or outside, which can cause the wheel to be loose even though the nut feels tight.

Screw a nut on without a wheel & measure the space for the wheel is less than the thickness of the wheel.

Be sure to check the nut tension after a bit of driving, then again after about 100km.
Thanks for the tips.

Nuts had enough depth and the Pajero Sport rims fit perfectly



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Old 2 Weeks Ago
spot01 spot01 is offline
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Looks good - I like the black nuts as they give it a more purposeful look.


Do the nuts have the separate washers & are they the same outside diameter as the factory spec?


What offset & width are the wheels?

Now, if only they had some 17" wheels that fit?
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