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Photos - You and your rig! Show off your rig and your mods.

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Old 19-02-08
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Alex86 Alex86 is online now
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Default A few mods

G?day.

Thought id post a bit of a story and a few photos of what ive been doing to the Paj over the past couple of weeks.

Bit of a warning- the post is quite long with over 2mb of photos so it?s a bit of a bandwidth hog!


The whole project [just a couple of minor things left to buy and hook up] has been:
Dual batteries
Driving Lights
Reversing Floodlight above the spare
Re-route and conduit lots of wiring in a neater manner to bring some accessories off the aux battery instead of the main, and run a spare lead to the back for future possibilities
Hook up the oil pressure, voltmeter and horizon instruments on the dash.

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Let?s start with the aux battery installation.

This is the location of the Isolator [Redarc Smart Start]. A knocked-up bracket and short bolts gets it into a couple of existing holes in the factory-fitted battery tray.


Location for the aux batt- rear left hand side of the engine bay. Note the charcoal canister has been removed from its original spot. We made a mistake and almost drilled a hole in the wrong spot [hence the cutout between the two holes for the hanging straps].


These are the ingredients to take the aux battery. I think dad knocked the pieces out of some metal lying around- looks a bit rough but when its installed and all the mounts are tightened it does not move around a single millimetre. Does the job nicely.


A couple of ?hanging straps? will hold the tray in place for the battery to sit on. The long bracket makes use of threaded holes in the factory battery tray too.


The tray sitting on the straps. The outboard side of the tray makes use of the old holes the charcoal canister mounted by- threaded too!


The fuse box [Supercheap, $16], connected to the aux, so that power can be distributed to driving lights, reverse floods, air horn etc. The whole thing did get tidied up at the end and it doesn?t look so messy now!!


Installed and looking messy, just to test the system.



This is the new location for the charcoal canister as it has to be removed from its original location to fit the aux batery. Fitting the canister in the new spot required having to remove the wheel and inner guard for access to put a bolt through some existing, un-threaded holes. However due to the installation, the wheel doesn?t need to come off to get the bracket out any more! New hose also had to be purchased [about $8 from Repco] and run to the appropriate locations.



Fitting an override switch into the interior of the car involved running some dual-core cable through the firewall. This was done by opening up the grommet below the aux battery?s position with some needle nose pliers and poking the wires through from the inside of the vehicle. Gaining access was easy from the inside- just remove two pieces of trim and you will see a whole loom going towards the engine bay.
We took advantage of this opportunity to poke wires for every other little project through at the same time. The outside of the grommet was then siliconed up to prevent any possible water getting through.



This is the override switch. The switch allows you to start the vehicle from the aux battery from inside the car. The LED shows the status of the whole system- on when the aux is receiving a charge, and also on when the override button is pressed when the main batt doesn?t have enough juice for a start!
Holes were cut in a blank and the switch and LED fitted. A bit of cutting away at the back of the blank was required to make sure the red button stayed in place!





The completed installation, all ready to go.


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Now for the driving lights.
As mentioned above the cable was run through the firewall. Running the cable under both batteries, hooking into the high-beam and to the bullbar is all pretty easy. The wiring, relay, switch etc comes all ready to go out of the box with plenty to spare.
I cut the manufacturer?s switch off the supplied cable and installed a Narva 62000BL rocker switch [Repco, $17]. The switch fits almost perfectly into the holes in the instrument console, a bit of filing was needed to open up the hole so that the switch would ease in.
I stuffed the plastic a bit but a bit of polish has made it a little better!



Looking good now!


i just need photos of the lights in action!

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The reversing floodlight has been interesting. The switch was ?relatively? easy once we sorted out a problem of getting the relay to pull in- the method we used which theoretically worked, actually didn?t [in the complete manner we hoped for anyway].
The switch used was a Narva 63027BL rocker switch [Repco, $18]. It is shown on the right in the image below, the other is the 6200BL for the front spotties. The switch is too small for a hole left by an ordinary blank, however all you need to do is cut around the ?inside line? that?s scored into the face of the blank and its an almost perfect fit. I used the little coin holder and cut that bit out and it worked out pretty well- you can see the grey of the original blank surrounding the Narva switch.


The switch in position



Dad made up a telescopic bracket to mount a light.



The bracket mounts to the spare holder with a couple of spacers and sticks out for some clearance. Some curly wire allows the extension and retraction without the wire bunching up inside the tube. The wire goes underneath the door, up through a grommet and runs inside the door to the rubber dust boot at the hinge, through the boot and comes out behind the tail light assembly. From here it joins a dedicated earth and power supply up to the aux battery. Enough room for the wiper to get across too. Just need the light now!






--------------

Ebay was the source for the instrument cluster- complete with the famous leaky horizon which still needs definitive fixing!!!!!!!!
A lot of the harness and bracket work is there already fortunately. The Escape model does not come with this cluster and I thought ?why not put one in!?.
Now the unfortunate thing is that a Paj with the oil pressure gauge I believe does not get the warning light illuminate in the tacho area- but the one with a light does not have the gauge??. I now have both thanks to an adapter [$10 or so from Enzed], and sender unit [$100 from Mitsu]. A wire had to be run from the cluster through the firewall and down under the batteries to the front of the vehicle where it meets up with the switch line next to the oil filter.
The yellow wire is the one I?ve run. The factory pressure switch can be seen to the right [in the photo] of the filter.


Installed and ready to go. The pressure switch was removed, the adapter piece placed in then the sender unit and switch put in place and wired up.


The dash needed some cutting. Almost everything was underneath. I think only an earth and the line to the sender unit had to be sourced. I only did the yellow wire, dad sorted out the rest whilst I was away.


Then the gauge/s, and the lights that even dim with the rest of the panel, work!



--------

That's it. Hope you've enjoyed the mammoth post!
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'99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

'99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

Wanted: Adventure.
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Old 19-02-08
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Good work on the post Alex, the only thing you may want to consider is that once you have a rear light on the pole it is going to be exactly in the middle of you rear view, which is quite small in the Paj. I reacon it would be better if you swapped it to the other side of the spare carrier, this is how mine is (once it's finished), then just point it more towards the middle.

That wiring in you engine bay, puts mine to shame.. conduit, nah don't need that I've lost count of how many wires run through my fire wall..

Good work!
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Old 19-02-08
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Excellent work Alex,I had the light setup on the back of my Paj as well but I should have put a swivel head on it . So as soon as I opened the door the light was throwing out the side and not directly at the rear. Bit of a bugger when setting up camp at night.
One other question... the connection for the centre clustre was already tucked away under the dash somewhere?
Dave
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Old 19-02-08
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Cheers fellas..


Steele, yes im expecting to do a bit of fiddling once i decide on a light to use. One thing if there is a visibility problem is to modify the head of the post and stick the light to the left and 'hang it' from above rather than have it sit on top.
I think there were some door shape/spare/wiper clearance issues when we considered going from the right hand side. I know the bracket will be fine on the left when i upsize my wheels and tyres aswell. It wont be too hard to modify if need be though!
Got any shots of what you're installation to be looks like?

The conduit work was a nightmare! Makes the end result a bit neater so i think the extra effort was worthwhile.


Dave, the swivel head is a nice idea, will have to remember that!
As for the wiring for the cluster... I've just spoken to dad- No the stuff was not tucked away there all ready to go unfortunately- on my Paj at least...
Hopefully i have this right... He mentioned that behind the fuel-cap release switch [with trim removed] there was a connecter with some wires going nowhere. It picks up from "D-02-2", an 8-pin connector for the wiring and dad made up a harness and ran the new wires it to the appropriate location. He wanted to keep it as close to original as possible.
Hope that helps..
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'99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

'99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

Wanted: Adventure.
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Old 19-02-08
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'Dad' could make a fortune selling his services on this forum
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2018 Pajero Sport Exceed.

4WD History: 2011 MN Triton GLX-R. 2004 NP GLS DiD. 2002 Landrover Freelander Td4. 1996 Subaru DL wagon. Learnt in a 1980 Ford F100.
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Old 03-03-08
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Been a long time comming but here is how mine is mounted. Mine is more for offsetting the spare carrier so i can put wide tyres on, but i thought i might put a few things on there like the GPS antenna, UHF antenna and maybe a work light (Not that i need it ) It'll have a piece comming straight out horizontally, for mounting stuff.



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Old 11-06-09
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ALEX thank you I a newbie here and have my first 4x4 I am about to fit the centre cluster as well. I have to fix the level meter as it leaks but I got post for that one. I love this site one can get info from the more expericenced 4x4 ers.
No doubt I will be post more as I get more into 4x4 ing. I took my Paj from Brisbane to Coffs Harbour and back I was so surprised at how well it goes and the fuel econ is great.
Cheers and Thank you

Ok I have removed the Level Meter finding no cracks in the plastic body or the round piece at the back. As the oil came out while I was walking from the wrecked car at the wreckers it had to come from somewhere. Two places one the round seal at the back of the unit. I cleaned it with metho throughly. Mixed some 5 min araldite and sealed all round that join making sure I got all the outer edge of the circle. Then where the front bubble connects to the case there is a gap there so I sealed it as well with araldite and making sure I got it right in the parts where the support brackets are using a tooth pick. I went out to get some fluid while that was drying. I went to local Woolworths and found Gliserine and Parafin tipping each bottle sideways finding that the Gliserene was heavy and parafin is lighter. Remembering the oil that spilled out was lite like the parafin I chose to use that. I then heated a needle on a syringe and poked a hole in the top above the back of the gauge making it slightly bigger so I could fill it with syringe. I filled it almost to the top leaving some room for expansion. Then Sealed The Hole With araldite after roughing it up with sandpaper. Left it for a few days. No more leaks. I have yet to fit the gauge set I have to Phsych myself into cutting the dash area where it goes LOL. I will pick up the adapter for the oil senders and run the wire I need and pick up the new sender unit.
Cheers all and thanks for all the help.

Last edited by Wiseowl; 23-06-09 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Spelling Check Added end to line.
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Old 11-06-09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiseowl View Post
I have to fix the level meter as it leaks but I got post for that one.

I fixed mine by pulling it out and replacing with a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
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Old 01-07-09
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Default Fitting Multi Gauges To Nl Pajero

Hi all I just finished fitting my gauges where mine didnt have any. As per Alex post an help form Alex Dad.

I was able to find at local wreckers a Harness for the gauges. This harness has another harness strapped to it and plugs in just where your left knee sits taking of the panel to expose them. The extra harness is located hanging of a bendy clip with a wire loop in it thats the one for the clock. Plug that into there and the other into the meters one and feed both connectors through a hole to the left of your knee take out the radio panel 2 screws. Feed it up the back towards the base of the windscreen feeling the hole the gauges sit in and pull both connectors out that hole. I don't have a clock so I left that unplugged till I source one. Plug in the meters and sit back in place. The rest was a pain Alex said take of the skid plates off and the sender unit thats next to the oil filter. The wire that runs to it has a white plug further up the harness thats for the oil sender for the gauges. Buying the adapter as said in Alex post fit that up and make a short femal and male spade lead to extend the oil sender unit for the gauges. Plug them in one to the new sender unit the other to the existing one. That way you will have the oil light and the pressure guage in the centre of the dash. Now start the Paj and check that it all works light behind will work and u can adjust the brightness with the dash dimmer. Now put all back to gether leaving the skid plates till last run the Paj to make sure there isnt any leaks where the adaptor and senders are screwed in. I used white thread tape.
I owe a lot of the info to Alex and Alan with out their valued help I would not have tackled it. I was just lucky to find a harness at the wreckers intact. I was told by Local Mitz Dealer that the oil sender wire should be there already thats all I did different
Cheers all and Again Thanks for a great site full of helpful 4wdrivers.
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