NM upper glove box latch failure.

[RoyHarvey]

Hi all
The latch release on our upper glove compartment (the non locking one) has malfunctioned and won't release.
Wondering if anyone might offer a suggestion for getting it open, I have tried springing it open with a couple of large screwdrivers but I think damage will be the result if I persist!
Tried prising out the latch cover but I'm guessing its securely fastened from the inside of the lid.
Currently cosidering drilling / cutting into the latch but initial enquiries suggest $100+ for a second hand lid if they had one!
Cheers Roy

[marquis]

You cannot access the release or the mounting screws without opening the compartment.

Can you push the release?
Have you tried push lid in-release-pull?

I suggest sourcing a second hand lid if you cannot open it/

[RoyHarvey]

Thanks marquis

The button slides partially in, then stops completely, even a pair of multi grips won't move it any further!

I can spring the lid open a little at the top, so might have a go at making a shaped tool to try and depress the catch. Other than that I concede it looks like another lid is needed.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Mrs B's Pajero's......... Still it's our first 'mechanical problem' in over 2 years!

Cheers Roy

[RoyHarvey]

Latch Malfunction

The outcome for anyone who may have this problem in the future.

I managed to lever open the top of the lid enough to to get in with a hacksaw blade and cut through one side of the retaining wire. Ref arrow Pic 12a Once one side was cut, the wire bent enough to get the lid open. My plan was to s/solder or weld the cut but I dont think that will be nececassary after reshaping, the wire is quite rigid as is.

On removal the latch assy appeared to be in the locked position. Pic 10a shows the key hole, and my ignition key fitted straight in, rotated 90 degrees to unlock. Had I kown the design, it would have been relatively easy to drill a hole through the centre of the tim cover, insert the key and open the lid!

The rectangular slide button also had some damage, Ref pic 1a, but it's likely I caused that by applying too much pressure to the button while attemping to open it. Since there is plently of travel in the button slide, I was able to file out the damaged area and it now works fine.

I presume my lowly C'wealth Games model doesn't rate the luxury of a locking upper compartment, so they blanked off the key hole in the trim. My admiration of the marketing fraternity diminshes yet further!

Cheers Roy

[Jaster]

Just think about it though, you saved that extra 2c on the purchase price because they didn't have to take the time to drill that extra hole, even though you probably still paid the extra $20 for the locking mechanism.

Yay for marketing ...

[DMME]

Thanks

Hi guys,
Just bought an NM yesterday, traded an NH :-), and guess what ???
same problem with the glove box (google found the site) so Thanks for the help already.

[RobWilliams]

I have the 2000 NM Exceed model and the top glove box also has no key-hole! Mine is stuck locked and now after having read your information, I'm tempted to drill a key sized hole in the top latch trim and trying unlocking first! Mitsubishi couldn't even open it for me!
I think they just use the same locking mechanism as for the lower glove box and think that it's not necessary to lock the top glove box, so blank it off!

[RoyHarvey]

As I recall the actual lock entry sits quite central under the centre section of the housing. (ie similar position as the key hole in the lower lid.)
The plastic cover is fairly thin so take care when drilling. (Take the sharp edge off the drill, or apply a little negative rake as the tooly's would say!)
Good luck with it and I would be keen to hear how you go!

[RobWilliams]

Well, I followed the instructions, measured with my 'eye-crometer' the centre of the latch cover, then carefully drilled a large enough hole. The inner workings were exposed. So I tried to put my key in and turn it. The key went in but the latch stubbornly refused to turn. Even after jiggling it and eventually in frustration trying a flat blade scredriver, it still refused to open! I gave up before I destroyed anything.
When you had your's apart Roy, did it appear that the mechanism could do with lubricating? I must say I'm tempted to saw through the retainer wire too!

[RoyHarvey]

Sorry for the delayed reply, I read this forum quite regularly but obviously missed your post!
As soon as the lock assembly was out, I put the key in and it turned like a brand new unit!
Cutting one side of the retaining wire is not that hard, I suggest "go for it."
My wife is worried our's will lock itself again so I might see if the bottom latch assembly, with the moulded key hole will swap to the top lid! Then drill an access hole in the top cover but then fit that cover in the lower lid where it's less visible!

[RobWilliams]

Thanks Roy, I appreciate your feedback. When you cut the wire, did you have to bend it or pry the glovebox lid open? How difficult was opening the lid once the wire was cut. You mentioned that the wire is strong enough to hold the lid closed, so it must be a tough one to bend open!

[RoyHarvey]

A couple of large screwdrivers, and a fair bit of force is needed to get sufficient gap to cut the wire, once cut the wire bends relatively easily. (an extra pair of hands would be helpful!)

[RobWilliams]

Thanks Roy. Will try that and maybe buy a new latch and wire to replace it with!

[redturboeclipse]

OMG this JUST happened to me.

same situation, top glove box..

This is on my USA 2002 Montero, Same excact car/glove box described in this thread.

All of a sudden it did not open, I was like WTF, I tried to pry it open and get the tag, but no go.

I did what was noted, I just started to drill in the center until it exposed the keyhole, then I just used my key to unlock it.

Now it looks ghetto, and the inside looks all tore up from trying to pry it.

[dave1950]

Dave

The outcome for anyone who may have this problem in the future.

I managed to lever open the top of the lid enough to to get in with a hacksaw blade and cut through one side of the retaining wire. Ref arrow Pic 12a Once one side was cut, the wire bent enough to get the lid open. My plan was to s/solder or weld the cut but I dont think that will be nececassary after reshaping, the wire is quite rigid as is.

On removal the latch assy appeared to be in the locked position. Pic 10a shows the key hole, and my ignition key fitted straight in, rotated 90 degrees to unlock. Had I kown the design, it would have been relatively easy to drill a hole through the centre of the tim cover, insert the key and open the lid!

The rectangular slide button also had some damage, Ref pic 1a, but it's likely I caused that by applying too much pressure to the button while attemping to open it. Since there is plently of travel in the button slide, I was able to file out the damaged area and it now works fine.

I presume my lowly C'wealth Games model doesn't rate the luxury of a locking upper compartment, so they blanked off the key hole in the trim. My admiration of the marketing fraternity diminshes yet further!

Cheers Roy

Roy I also had above problem and finally open glove compartment by placing screw driver though wire retainer and bending it slightly to the left and it sprang open. looking at your diagrams mine also seemed to be caused by the black plastic slide opener not turning the lock mech.
I also my have damaged this part by applying to much pressure when trying to open, as the small shaped part no longer turns the lock mech.
Can you please explain in more detail about filing the push mech, I was thinking of srewing the lock back together minus the lock mech and perhaps adapting a magnet type closer to hold the glovebox lid in the closed position ?
Mitsubishi also failed to open mine during a normal service, and had no solution to my problem.
I would appreciate your help with the filing arrangement to see if I can duplicate your success.
Thanks I love your web site it's GREAT.
Dave

2002 NM Exceed. Pedders front and rear coils and shocks, Sprint Gas Sequential injected LPG with tank mounted under rear dicky seat housing. And a long wish list of mods.