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  • Despicable
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2018
    • 11
    • Gold Coast

    PC Challenger Auto Trans Reverse Issue

    Hi All,
    I’ve been a member for quite a while now, and have read most every post, but this is my first post.
    I have an issue with reverse in my PC Challenger Auto. The car was purchased new in 2014 and has only 21000 klms on the clock. It isn’t a daily driver, tows a 1.56 Tonne Tare – 2.06 Tonne ATM caravan when we can get away, no big trips yet, 300 klms at most so far. The warranty expired this year. It has been serviced by Mitsubishi since new and has been reliable.
    I drove the Challenger last weekend, not towing, and noticed it engaged reverse more harshly than normal. I thought little of it at the time, but when I drove it again today, the harshness was still there. The car drove normally and reversed normally, but when I was reversing out of a picnic ground, I noticed my reverse camera wasn’t operating. I drove home before looking to much into it. When I got home, I realised the reverse sensors weren’t picking anything up, and that the reverse lights were out. I checked the fuses and they were all fine. It was then I realised there was no ‘R’ in the digital display on the dash. P, N, and D show up, just no R.
    I dropped the third bash plate so I could watch the selector as the gearbox was cycled through the gears and all looked fine. It is all very clean and like new underneath as the bulk of the off road use this car gets is beach and sand driving. I have a Navara dual cab that gets dirty.
    The car selects reverse mechanically; it just doesn’t seem to know it’s in reverse electronically.
    There are 3 things I’ve done to the car lately that may or may not have had an impact on this but are worth mentioning. I have recently reinstalled my updated Automate. I don’t think this is the issue as I have run Automate since it was available for a PC, and Lockup Mate before that. Never had an issue before and couldn’t imagine towing without it again. To be sure though I tested the car with Automate turned off and then disconnected. The reverse issue continued.
    I have changed my rear springs from KCRS-23 Raised to KCRR-23HD Raised. I can’t see how this would cause the issue, but there may be wiring to the back of the car I have damaged unknowingly but doubt it. The reverse light and automatic fuses were fine though. I both checked and replaced them.
    The third was to feed a twin core 8mm2 wire through the large grommet on the passenger side firewall and feed it through behind the glove box. I had the dash in this area partly disassembled to see as best I could when feeding a solid wire through first. I took a few goes to get the solid wire through. Is there anything behind the glove box that I could have disconnected, without knowing, that could cause this? I ran this cable under the passenger side kick panels to my drawers. It's not connected to anything yet, just a cable from under the bonnet to the cargo area.
    Where is the reverse light switch? My next thought is to check the switch to see if it is connecting, try to connect it to see if it makes a difference.
    The car did throw a P1901 code when I reconnected Automate, but that is normal, at least for mine. I find I can clear this code straight away with my UltaGauge if I have the ignition on but the car not running. It’s hard to clear with the car running. There is no check engine light on at the moment.
    Any thoughts guys? Thanks for your time in advance and thanks for all the tips and advice I have read on this forum in the past few years. It’s a valuable resource for Challenger owners like me, although I can’t recall reading about a problem quite like mine.

    Edit: I just put the car away and it threw a P0705 code. I cleared the code, and the problem persists.

    Cheers,
    Despicable.
    Last edited by Despicable; 30-11-19, 06:18 PM. Reason: Update
    2014 PC LS Challenger, Auto, MMA Alloy Bullbar,
    Great Whites, Cooper AT3's 265-65-17, 3 x Bushskinz,
    Brown and Davis Long Range Tank, Automate, HR Towbar,
    Raised King Suspension, Aluminium Drawer System and all the usual other stuff.
  • old Jack
    Regular
    • Jun 2011
    • 11614
    • Adelaide, South Australia.

    #2
    Must be season for inhibit switches going out of adjustment.






    From post 132 onwards.

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

    Comment

    • BruceandBobbi
      Valued Member
      • Aug 2016
      • 3256
      • Greater Sydney

      #3
      What the P0705 code means

      Diagnostic trouble code P0705 indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) or Transmission Control Module (TCM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS). This switch is also known as a pressure switch, Park Neutral Position switch (PNP), the gear selection switch, or a PRNDL input switch. The function of the Transmission Range Sensor is to tell the ECM or TCM the position of the shift lever. The TRS is most commonly located on the outside of the transmission, however some of them are located inside of the transmission on the valve body.
      This particular trouble code will set if the ECM does not receive an input. It also will set if the ECM receives an input that can not be logically possible: for example if the vehicle is going 50 MPH, but the Transmission Range Sensor tells the ECM that it is in Reverse, a code P0705 will set. There also have been instances where a TRS faulted to a point where the ECM was told that it is in more than one gear simultaneously; if this is the case a code P0705 will be set

      Comment

      • old Jack
        Regular
        • Jun 2011
        • 11614
        • Adelaide, South Australia.

        #4
        Originally posted by BruceandBobbi View Post
        What the P0705 code means

        Diagnostic trouble code P0705 indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) or Transmission Control Module (TCM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS). This switch is also known as a pressure switch, Park Neutral Position switch (PNP), the gear selection switch, or a PRNDL input switch. The function of the Transmission Range Sensor is to tell the ECM or TCM the position of the shift lever. The TRS is most commonly located on the outside of the transmission, however some of them are located inside of the transmission on the valve body.
        This particular trouble code will set if the ECM does not receive an input. It also will set if the ECM receives an input that can not be logically possible: for example if the vehicle is going 50 MPH, but the Transmission Range Sensor tells the ECM that it is in Reverse, a code P0705 will set. There also have been instances where a TRS faulted to a point where the ECM was told that it is in more than one gear simultaneously; if this is the case a code P0705 will be set

        I too found the above info, but when I checked on the Diagnostic Fault Code list in the Service Manual there is no P0705 code listed.

        OJ.
        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

        Comment

        • Despicable
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2018
          • 11
          • Gold Coast

          #5
          Thanks Guys for the prompt replies and advice. I will try adjusting the inhibitor switch tomorrow.


          Cheers,
          Despicable
          2014 PC LS Challenger, Auto, MMA Alloy Bullbar,
          Great Whites, Cooper AT3's 265-65-17, 3 x Bushskinz,
          Brown and Davis Long Range Tank, Automate, HR Towbar,
          Raised King Suspension, Aluminium Drawer System and all the usual other stuff.

          Comment

          • Despicable
            Junior Member
            • Apr 2018
            • 11
            • Gold Coast

            #6
            Hi Guys,

            Tried adjusting the cable on the selector that is on the side of the gearbox, but with no luck. I can loose my N, and my D, put the N where the D should be, but can’t get get my R back.
            I think my next step will be to replace the inhibit switch with a new one. I did a quick search online and they come up on eBay for as low as $35 dollars, up to $185 for a supposedly genuine one. My 1st thought was to buy a genuine one, but if this is the fault, my factory one didn’t last more than 21000 klms, so genuine probably isn’t worth the difference. Any suggestions as to where else to price this? I did read somewhere that they can cost around $400 from Mitsubishi. Can anyone confirm the part number?
            I see Old Jack has suggested testing the switch in one of his attached threads, but think if I’m going to disconnect it, I might as well replace it.
            I did back track over the other jobs I had done on the car recently and can’t see anything that I damaged.
            I searched online for other makes of car with my problem and found that a faulty inhibit switch will take out the reverse lights, sensors and so on. Another common cause was a damaged wire under the car at the switch. This unlikely with mine as it’s like new underneath and the auto is protected by a bash plate. I also read that a faulty inhibit switch is said to be common in Tritons and L200’s.
            I think switch replacement is the way to go for me, unless there are any other suggestions?
            Thanks again for your time.

            Cheers,
            Despicable.
            Last edited by Despicable; 01-12-19, 03:26 PM.
            2014 PC LS Challenger, Auto, MMA Alloy Bullbar,
            Great Whites, Cooper AT3's 265-65-17, 3 x Bushskinz,
            Brown and Davis Long Range Tank, Automate, HR Towbar,
            Raised King Suspension, Aluminium Drawer System and all the usual other stuff.

            Comment

            • old Jack
              Regular
              • Jun 2011
              • 11614
              • Adelaide, South Australia.

              #7
              Replacing the inhibit switch without testing loom continuity means you might be unlucky and replace the switch and it still not work if you have a loom problem.

              It is not a big job to disconnect the loom plugs at the inhibit switch and the AT ECU and checked loom continuity. Just remember to insert test probes from the wire side of the plugs and do not use the plug pins or sockets, as these are easily damaged and you can cause yourself more problems.

              Disconnecting the inhibit switch plug and doing a continuity test on all 4 gear selection positions is easy and this would would confirm if the switch is faulty or not. Once again insert test problems from wire side of the plug.


              Park Terminals 1-7 and 9 -10.
              Reverse Terminal 7-8.
              Neutral Terminals 7-2 and 9-10.
              Drive Terminals 3-7.
              Continuity, less than 2Ω resistance.

              OJ.
              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

              Comment

              • Despicable
                Junior Member
                • Apr 2018
                • 11
                • Gold Coast

                #8
                Thanks Old Jack. I will test before I buy one. The diagram you attached is a big help.

                Cheers,
                Despicable.
                2014 PC LS Challenger, Auto, MMA Alloy Bullbar,
                Great Whites, Cooper AT3's 265-65-17, 3 x Bushskinz,
                Brown and Davis Long Range Tank, Automate, HR Towbar,
                Raised King Suspension, Aluminium Drawer System and all the usual other stuff.

                Comment

                • spot01
                  Valued Member
                  • Apr 2011
                  • 4713
                  • Adelaide

                  #9
                  Simple things first:


                  You mention it is "like new" underneath, but earlier you mentioned it has had beach use - perhaps the salt has caused a corroded connection underneath that isn't obvious?


                  You say you have checked the fuses - how did you check them & which fuses? It wouldn't be the first time an apparently unrelated fuse has caused a drama & much running around in circles!


                  BTW, just because the manufacturer's warranty has expired doesn't mean you have no warranty - the Statutory Warranty (per the Australian Consumer Law) still applies and should cover a fault such as this (unless caused by something done to the car). Once you start pulling it apart they are more likely to argue you have caused it. I would have a conversation with the dealer's service people in the first instance - you never know, it may have occurred before.
                  Pajero NX MY21 GLS

                  Comment

                  • old Jack
                    Regular
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 11614
                    • Adelaide, South Australia.

                    #10
                    The inhibit switch is in the ignition circuit so is the engine starts and runs then there should be power to the input side of the inhibit switch.The fact that the dash display is indicating also confirms power to the circuit.

                    OJ.
                    Last edited by old Jack; 01-12-19, 05:48 PM.
                    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                    Comment

                    • Despicable
                      Junior Member
                      • Apr 2018
                      • 11
                      • Gold Coast

                      #11
                      Thanks for the input. The beach use is extremely limited and more dry sand work. I bought this mostly for touring. There are some water spots on the transmission sump, but all the alloy gearbox casings are shiny and are like new. I need a 4wd drive for work and at the moment I have a Navara. It gets muddy at work and does most of the beach and track work.
                      I had a look at the plug for the inhibitor switch this afternoon but haven’t tested it yet. I can get my hand on it but couldn’t unplug it. Only tried for a minute or 2 and really need to put it back outside to get it higher up off the ground. I might need to undo the gearbox mount so I can get a bit more room to wriggle the plug. We had a couple of storms this afternoon with hail possible, so left the car in the garage. Didn’t get much rain though, and no hail. This will probably need to wait now to the weekend.
                      I agree with the warranty claim possibility, just don’t trust the local dealer to find it. I have OJ’s longer tailgate struts, but put the factory ones back on for the recall. Booked my car in for a service and the recall work with about 2 weeks notice. The dealer forgot to order the struts. Booked in again for the recall, but they forgot to order again. They told me to order them from spare parts. Spare parts said that wasn’t right, but ordered them anyway and rang me when they arrived. Booked in for the recall and was told they needed the car for the day. I told them it’s a 5 minute job with a ladder and a cushion, but they put me on hold to check, and said if I dropped it off early it would be done by 2pm. I offered to show them how to do it, but that didn’t go down too well. They had the car for most of the day. How long would it take them to find this? Other dealers are about an hour away and that doesn’t work for me at the moment. You guys know more about this than they would. I’ll try a few more things before they get a look.

                      Cheers,
                      Despicable.
                      Last edited by Despicable; 01-12-19, 08:10 PM.
                      2014 PC LS Challenger, Auto, MMA Alloy Bullbar,
                      Great Whites, Cooper AT3's 265-65-17, 3 x Bushskinz,
                      Brown and Davis Long Range Tank, Automate, HR Towbar,
                      Raised King Suspension, Aluminium Drawer System and all the usual other stuff.

                      Comment

                      • amec
                        Valued Member
                        • Mar 2015
                        • 644
                        • Wamberal

                        #12
                        You mention changing from lockup mate to automate, are you sure the piggy back plug on top of the transmission tunnel is in porperly? It is difficult to get to and might not be in right. Also check the pins and sockets in the piggy back plug are all ok.
                        PC Challenger. TJM bar and winch. Dual battery with Redarc dc-dc, Redarc trailer brake controller. USB outlets everywhere, Uniden UH5060 UHF, $0.45 EGR mod. Lovells springs and Bilstein shocks For 50mm lift. LED spotties. MM 4X4 Automate. Airtec snorkel, Hancook dynapro, Bushskinz skid plates x3 + side steps.Torqit peddle thing. Torqit Power Module.

                        Comment

                        • Despicable
                          Junior Member
                          • Apr 2018
                          • 11
                          • Gold Coast

                          #13
                          The upgrade from Lockup Mate to Automate was done many months ago and Automate has always worked flawlessly. The recent upgrade was just a software upgrade which only involved removing and reinstalling the Automate control box. Automate is working well.
                          I searched the internet for similar issues and found an L200 that lost it’s reverse lights with the cause being a faulty inhibitor switch, so is similar to my issue as I have lost all electronics associated with reverse, with reverse still able to be engaged and used mechanically.
                          I haven’t had the chance to investigate this much further as yet. I have checked with a dealer to see if this part needed to be ordered. It is something they keep on the shelf. When time permits, I will lower the trans on a trolley jack to give a bit more room as I can only touch the switch plug with stretched out fingers. I plan to do this and test the switch when Mitsubishi spare parts is open so if I find the fault I can just nip out a buy the switch. I also have a mate with a hoist and can use that if I need, but would wait for my Christmas shut down if I go that way. It’s a funny thing though, the last time I used his hoist was a few years ago to swap out an auto transmission from a Jackaroo. It was a low k Jack and had an issue with reverse. Apparently, that auto (used in Toyota 4wds as well) has a circlip that lets go and causes reverse gear to slip and that was the fault mine had. I did that swap on Boxing Day a few years ago.

                          Cheers,
                          Despicable.
                          2014 PC LS Challenger, Auto, MMA Alloy Bullbar,
                          Great Whites, Cooper AT3's 265-65-17, 3 x Bushskinz,
                          Brown and Davis Long Range Tank, Automate, HR Towbar,
                          Raised King Suspension, Aluminium Drawer System and all the usual other stuff.

                          Comment

                          • amec
                            Valued Member
                            • Mar 2015
                            • 644
                            • Wamberal

                            #14
                            Have you been able to resolve the issue?
                            PC Challenger. TJM bar and winch. Dual battery with Redarc dc-dc, Redarc trailer brake controller. USB outlets everywhere, Uniden UH5060 UHF, $0.45 EGR mod. Lovells springs and Bilstein shocks For 50mm lift. LED spotties. MM 4X4 Automate. Airtec snorkel, Hancook dynapro, Bushskinz skid plates x3 + side steps.Torqit peddle thing. Torqit Power Module.

                            Comment

                            • Despicable
                              Junior Member
                              • Apr 2018
                              • 11
                              • Gold Coast

                              #15
                              No, not sorted yet. The inhibitor switch is good. I was able to try the car with one that works and the problem persists. I have pulled every fuse and all are ok. I will start looking for a damaged wire next. I’d be surprised if there was a damaged wire under the car as it’s all protected with Bushskinz. I pulled the glove box out again to see if I had disconnected anything when I fed a power wire through the firewall, but all looks good. I probably need to pull the fan out to check for a damaged wire at the firewall next. I’ll probably go and see an auto electrician if I get the chance next week. I will be on Christmas shut down holidays shortly and will have more time to chase this then.
                              When I finished fitting everything back up and replaced all the fuses I checked my Ultra gauge and it had P0705 as a pending code again. I cleared the code but still no reverse electronics. It seems to come up when I have disconnected wires or fuses associated with reverse and then reconnect them. It’s not there all the time, just after power is restored.

                              Cheers,
                              Despicable.
                              2014 PC LS Challenger, Auto, MMA Alloy Bullbar,
                              Great Whites, Cooper AT3's 265-65-17, 3 x Bushskinz,
                              Brown and Davis Long Range Tank, Automate, HR Towbar,
                              Raised King Suspension, Aluminium Drawer System and all the usual other stuff.

                              Comment

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