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Variable Geometry Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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P047 Error
Originally posted by Xrsteve View PostSo today I disconnected the swirl control valve solenoid and it’s back to normal.
I did an engine decarbonization and I think, I may have gotten to enthusiastic with two cans of Liqui Moly and ended up removing the carbon build up in the turbo shaft on the metal bush of the shaft. Long story short my turbo shaft broke and it ended up dumping a whole lot of oil into my intake and exhaust etc.
I cleaned up the intake, ordered a turbo cartridge from Ali Express and re-built by Turbo. However, the Variable Vane actuator gets stuck in closed (low RPM ) position. So, the engine strains as the RPM increases. So, as a temporary fix, I removed the vacuum line from the Variable Geometry Solenoid and so now the vanes are in the fully open position (default position when there is no vacuum to the actuator). However, I lost my low end grunt. So, it is like a fixed geometry turbo with vanes fully open. Works fine at high speeds, but no bottom end grunt.
I used a multi meter and vacuum pump and checked the Variable Geometry Solenoid and it seems to be working fine as per the specifications in the service manual. In between the car threw up a P0106 error code for the MAP sensor. I found that the nipple from the intake manifold where the tube is connected to the MAP sensor was fully clogged. So,I cleaned that out with a straightened paper clit and also cleaned the tube. However, the opening in the MAP sensor was too small to clean. Tried to pour some diesel inside to clean it.
Now my car throws a P0299 (Under boost error). This is because the vacuum actuator is not getting signal to open up the vanes for higher rpm.
Only thing left for me to check is the swirl control valve. Any idea how I can disable this?
Thanks in advance for your help.Last edited by TonyPajeroNT; 05-04-20, 09:40 PM.
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Thread is a bit old, but just a heads up on the Denso variable geometry solenoid valve. I have a 2015 MN Triton with the 4D56 motor & I fitted a Tillix valve to it. The oem boost controller was cactus & I was getting heaps of overboost. Plus it was noisy, real noisy & clicking. But because you still have to plug into it with a Tillix or Dawes valve installed it still made the noise so I removed it & replaced with a special resistor. Quite a lot of trial & error to work out exactly what was needed to get a perfectly neat plug & play unit, because it's not just the resistor that is needed, but I eventually got it sorted & I have been running it without the Denso boost controller for months without a single issue, not one check engine light or any drop in performance, but best of all no more loud ticking coming from the dam thing.
The resistors are not easy to find in Aus, and u will have no chance finding them at Jaycar, I looked for hours & I couldn't find any here in Aus, but they are available from Asia if you know what u are looking for.
So if u need to you can bypass that oem problem device easily, & if you want to you can take off completely.Last edited by whats_that_Rattle; 04-10-22, 04:48 PM.
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