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  • Jasonmc73
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2019
    • 2692
    • Brisbane

    Those fuse holders are crap with larger currents, loss across & heat also they melt.

    Everyone is different & has an opinion of course but i use circuit breakers & i use bolt down midi fuses.
    Circuit breakers are generally thermal, i have an 80 amp under bonnet, feeding Redarc BCDC1240 goes ok.
    Midi fuses, bolt down either end, never fail great connection, i like these as well.

    Electric Redarc towpro brakes i do use auto reset, breaker, for that one application.

    I have also discussed this with a Tech fitter, it's his job, he has same opinion, so validated my beliefs & practices.
    Contractor i use at work & does a lot of work for Brown & Hurley as well.
    Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

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    • Dicko1
      Valued Member
      • Dec 2014
      • 7640
      • Cairns, FNQ

      Originally posted by vladguan View Post
      BTW, the fuse holder in the photo on page 15 is for the alarm horn. The fuse holder for the ARB is next to the compressor and is three times the size of that one.
      I,ve had these , as well as the larger ones, fail often. They form oxidation on the fuse which leads to high resistence, then heat...then melts or catches fire. . They do not like high humidity either. They may be alright for sealed areas and low amps (say 15amps tops) but any larger and a dedicated midi fuse holder...looks more professional and is a lot better quality fuse.
      Dicko. FNQ

      2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

      TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

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      • Pajshomoneroguntero
        Valued Member
        • Jul 2013
        • 1438
        • Sydney

        Originally posted by vladguan View Post
        Anyone know what I can use to block the outlet so crap doesn't get in there?
        I don't think you need to bother with a cap at all.



        Unfortunately the air fitting is just out of the pic in the top left corner however I think you can establish just what it looked like. I haven't had issue even after abuse such as this. The fitting got a wash out and a quick spray with WD40.
        NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

        Build Thread

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        • Pajshomoneroguntero
          Valued Member
          • Jul 2013
          • 1438
          • Sydney

          Originally posted by Dicko1 View Post

          I,ve had these , as well as the larger ones, fail often. They form oxidation on the fuse which leads to high resistence, then heat...then melts or catches fire. . They do not like high humidity either. They may be alright for sealed areas and low amps (say 15amps tops) but any larger and a dedicated midi fuse holder...looks more professional and is a lot better quality fuse.
          I can attest to that.



          This came off the fuse holder for the lightbar. Couldn't work out why the lightbar worked with a direct connection to the battery but voltage was dropping when installed. Then remembered I could have saved quite a bit of time if I had remembered to check all of the fuses like this one in the aforementioned crappy blade fuse holder and not just tried to be smart checking the ones in the fuse box

          It would have been through quite a few "100% humidity" events over a year before.
          NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

          Build Thread

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          • Jasonmc73
            Valued Member
            • Jun 2019
            • 2692
            • Brisbane

            As an example, i have one of these i fitted in my camper trailer, quality is impressive, grommets & water proof

            https://www.solidkit.com.au/product/...fuse-junction/

            I use it as a junction box along with fused & have one wire runs to my house battery + terminal.

            Vehicle end is 80amp breaker, hasn't been a problem yet. I also use this as a junction, one wire from this to battery.

            Example, Redarc towpro is wired to hot side of breaker not the battery, then onto a Auto breaker as its brake circuit.

            The genuine trailer wire is also now wired to the hot side of the breaker.

            I hate spaghetti battery wires in my stuff, annoys me
            Last edited by Jasonmc73; 15-04-21, 08:01 AM.
            Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

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