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Crack in body under spare
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To monitor sounds like a reasonable option particularly now that you have a photo to compare at next check.
If it were mine I would want to remove the internal trim and see if there is a bracing panel or bracket adjacent to the crack, or possibly some way of adding support to reduce the stress in that area.2016 NX Pajero GLX
Prev....2002 NM petrol passed on to SIL
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maybe some tape or small marks with a marker to be able to see where the ends of the crack are at the moment.2009 NT GLS(NZ) diesel LWB auto
BFG AT,Rhino Rack Vortex Bars,Foxwing Eco Awning,BUSHSKINZ I/C, sump guards and steps
"do not check the button for faster communication, this will throw a wobbly with some dongles"
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The crack you can see on the outside of the paint will be slightly shorter than the actual crack. Also the longer the crack is left like it is the more it will grow.
Best to remove the rear door trim and have a look to see if there is something causing the issue. Then find the end of the crack on the inside of the door and drill a 3mm diameter hole so the edge of the hole just touches the end of the crack. Then with a 4mm drill carefully enlarge the hole from the outside. Deburr both sides and touch the paint up. This will stop the cracking from growing longer.
OJ.2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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Originally posted by old Jack View PostThe crack you can see on the outside of the paint will be slightly shorter than the actual crack. Also the longer the crack is left like it is the more it will grow.
Best to remove the rear door trim and have a look to see if there is something causing the issue. Then find the end of the crack on the inside of the door and drill a 3mm diameter hole so the edge of the hole just touches the end of the crack. Then with a 4mm drill carefully enlarge the hole from the outside. Deburr both sides and touch the paint up. This will stop the cracking from growing longer.
OJ.Silver NT VRX Di-D
ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches
My Build Thread - HERE
Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')
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Originally posted by geopaj View PostThat's what I was going to suggest but I'd then seal the holes with a blob of silicone to minimise dust/moisture entry.
OJ.2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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Drilling holes and silicone isn't going to fix a crack in sheet metal long term.
This is not something that I recall seeing or knowing of as a Pajero problem so I'd be investigating the actual cause. First on my list of suspects would be the spare wheel lift which I suspect may change the way loadings from the weight of the spare are distributed around the door. By lifting the attachment point of the spare it seems very likely that increased stresses are going to be created opposite, i.e. down low on the door.
I'd be getting it fixed properly, welding the crack and repainting but I'd also be looking at ways to better distribute the stresses - on the basis that it may just come back.Chris
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Drilling the ends of the crack will stop them from getting longer. Also this is a good practice prior to doing a weld repair on thin metal.
OJ.2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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re Crack in body under spare
Holes drilled, crack now rust treated and sikaflex appied. Crack is unsuitable to tape because of shape of area. I will inspect it later. Yesterday I found more evidence of vehicle being in an accident which may be the cause. Thanks for the help much appreciated.
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Originally posted by PETERPJERO1 View PostHoles drilled, crack now rust treated and sikaflex appied. Crack is unsuitable to tape because of shape of area. I will inspect it later. Yesterday I found more evidence of vehicle being in an accident which may be the cause. Thanks for the help much appreciated.'92 NH GLS LWB 3.0V6 A/T ...sold Please DON'T consider
'06 NP VR-X LWB Turbo Diesel Sports A/T..sold Please consider
'96 NJ GLX LWB Turbo Diesel M/T..sold . Loved that car
'08 NS GLX LWB Turbo Diesel M/T...daily driver. Wake up and Drive!
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