brake pad suggestions for PB

[old Jack]

My mistake, it was an Auto so 130,000km is amazing!

OJ.

[fester]

I have done 130000 km and still on original pads. Three major trips to Kimberley, Tassie and Gulf with western Queensland and all towing 1800kg camper. Asked at last service about pads and all good. Told to come back at 150000 for pads. Still standard pads.

You're showing promise Camsally. I had a GQ Patrol years ago that got 205,000 out of it's first set of factory pads.

Yet our Challengers front brakes were rooted within 15,000 k's with no liability on MM's part.

[peejay68au]

I do believe the EBC pads are primo, expensive but apparently you get what you pay for. Even a review on them would be good too

I have the EBC black ones whatever they're called on the VT and I think I done my money on them. Crap cold and not much better hot. And the dusting, within a week the sides and back end are black. Getting better with some k's on them but talk about dusty. I put slotted and dimpled rotors all round with the pads even though they didn't need replacing but I should have gone with the QFM pads instead. Only paid $100 for the full set.

[fester]

it is not the fault of the pads as such, they are not a performance pad, they are just a run of the mill replacement pad.
Having said that EBC do make it clear with some of their performance pads that they will create a lot of dust. Depending on the compound and performance level this is inevitable. You can't have your cake and eat it too.

QFM A1RM are good pads but if available the EBC Yellowstuff should outperform them in just about all situations. But then again in my Patrol where both applications are available you are comparing a $100 front set to a $250 set.

[feeex]

I've had Greenstuff pads on mine for a couple of months now and the braking performance is certainly improved. More bite but slightly softer feel which I guess explains the dust being generated. I had stock Mitsubishi pads before and the wheels very rarely got dirty with dust, but with these pads they're very dirty very quickly.

As Fester says, you can't have your cake and eat it!

[itsamitsi]

I had the wheels off it today and after 43K it still has 2/3s front pads left and about 1/2 on the rears. Fronts will do in excess of 100K but I don't think the rears will. Also the Yellowstuff pads on eBay to suit an 06 L200 will fit in our Challengers, checked it today and they are the same shape.

[Ent]

Sadly guessing brake pad life is an exercise in black magic. No better was my XR6 Turbo. Told at 60,000kms next service replacement. At 130,000kms told ok but next service replacement! Tyres was a joke. Told needed immediate replacement for XR 6 turbo. Did not look bad but asked two local tyre places for a quote and both asked why would I replace perfectly acceptable tyres!

Frankly some mechanics just tick the replacement box. 50% at 60,000 kms should mean replacement at say 105,000 km service, but for some dealers this means 75,000km service. My Challenger rears are flagged for replacement at 75,000 kms. New record low kms for me so interested in the actual recommendation at the 75,000km service. The brakes on the PC Challenger could best be described as marginal for Tassie. Ok first two or three hard stops but if in rally mode get ready for fully faded brakes if you push on. The Challenger is the only modern manual car I have had where using the gearbox to slow down is a serious consideration.

[itsamitsi]

They are a metal composite pad that's why the have a shit fit after a few hard stops. Mine is squealing a fair bit now at 48K which if it continues I will dump them and replace.

[Loady1]

Obviously not all brake pads are the same even from the same manufacturers. Brake pads have a 2 letter friction designator. Eg. EE, FG, HH. The first letter is a friction designator for cold performance and the second for hot.

As an example, taxis use EE for long pad life, where a performance motorcyle uses HH.Generally brake pads that are dusty may be kinder to rotors than sintered metal pads.